Nights at the museum... And other things I liked about Faro, Portugal

So, last year, we said hello to a slightly new logo; this year, we’re saying hello to a slightly new title format! In the last couple of years, my trips have become less “experience as much as possible”, and rather more rest, recuperation, and a little culture. As such, I don’t always have helpful “...and other things to do” when I visit. But that’s okay - in all honesty, reader, these blogs are just as much for ‘future me’ to reminisce as they are to inspire ‘current you’ to visit.   

Portugal is one of those countries that have been on my 'must visit' list for the longest time. Friends, on learning I'd not yet been despite being Ms Travel, would always vehemently recommend a trip, which only further added to my desire to visit.

The choice of Faro was considered a unique one; many asked why I opted for here over the likes of Lisbon and Porto. Both are most definitely still on my list, but I simply thought lower down in the country, the warmer it'd be later in the year; we were visiting mid/late September. My friend (and former flatmate, with whom I've visited Singapore, Budapest, Copenhagen, and Brussels) and I were simply after good food, good wine, and a restful time.

The hotel 

We knew we wanted to go for a 'boujie' hotel with a pool when booking our accommodation, but we didn't realise just how fancy we'd gone until we arrived at Pousada Palacio de Estoi (due to the fact we were sharing a room, and there was a deal, it was a rather favourable rate!) We were literally staying in a heritage museum. Mind. Blown. As the hotel themselves put it, it was 'where the legacy meets the luxury'. From the fountains to the Renaissance-style painted frescos, this was truly something to behold.

We were offered a glass of champagne or water upon arrival, and then shown around some of the grounds. The upper floor areas pretty much maintained its 18th-century roots as a holiday home to a nobleman, and then Viscount, while also exhibiting Roman artefacts that had been uncovered on the estate. It even had its own chapel. The downstairs was more contemporary, with modern art sculptures and the guest rooms. 

Within 15 minutes of putting our bags down in our room, we went in the pool. It wasn't warm by any means, but cold water swimming is good for you, right?! We did a few lengths and widths to start our holiday. The hotel also had a much smaller heated indoor pool, which we popped our heads - and our bodies - into. When we weren't swimming, we were wrapped in robes reading poolside (hello, Jacqueline Wilson - thank you for taking me back to my childhood with your first adult novel, released just in time for this trip!)

On our first night and third night (which was our last night - it was just a long weekend trip), we dined at the hotel; the food was rich in flavour. Both the seabass and the pumpkin soup I had on the respective nights hit the spot. 

Going into Faro 

On the second day of our trip, we worked up the energy to venture into the centre of Faro, and not just stay at our remote hotel. A friend of mine who lives in Lisbon drove down to visit, and we spent the afternoon as a trio nattering, eating, and doing a little shopping at the local market. The seafood in Faro was absolutely delicious! 

That evening, my former flatmate and I went on a food and wine tour that started in the Old Town, and stopped at various places in the main centre and along the harbour. Well, it was billed as a food and wine tour; however, I found out I was pregnant a few days before I set off on this trip, so it was just a food tour for me. Baby's first holiday, at 5 weeks in utero - definitely my child, eh!

As I learnt in Bilbao, food tours are a great way to spend an afternoon or evening: not only do you get to eat local delicacies at authentic restaurants and bars, but you get to learn an area's history, and meet new people. Our guide was enigmatic, and took us to four spots in the city, where we were able to try 10 different dishes. I learnt that tempura is actually Portuguese, and that they do it damn well. I had some of the juiciest prawns I'd had in a while, and even tried something called spiderfish... 

Walking between the restaurants, we also learnt some Portuguese history, especially in relation to the Moorish people and the Brits. We also learnt that a couple we made friends with on the tour had paid to tour our hotel earlier in the day(!!!!). It was a lovely evening filled with good food, laughter, and even a few deep conversations with strangers. 

Our Faro verdict

Our break to Faro was just what we needed: a restful break, with swimming, eating, and reading by the pool. I did feel a little bad that my nausea and exhaustion did make me a little slower than I normally am when travelling, but my friend was an ideal companion for the trip - and for most trips, which is why we have done many together - she was super supportive and understanding. 

If you're not looking for a slow paced break, and want something more dynamic, Faro is a great jumping point to nearby towns and cities that offer a little more excitement, such as Portimao and other beach-side Algarve towns. I perhaps would only stay in Faro for life in the slow lane for a few days. Lisbon and Porto, you're in my sights now! 

Going on a viral mystery holiday... and other things to do in Bilbao, Basque Country

Picture this: I rocked up to Gatwick Airport, a carry on suitcase and a colleague in tow, with absolutely no idea where I was going. Yep, this is exactly how my trip to Bilbao started.

My visit to Bilbao was part of a work trip for Secret London and Journee, where myself and my colleague were sent on a mystery holiday. Journee plan and book your flights, hotel, and most activities, and you only find out where you’re going and what you’re doing once you’re at the airport! Read my review of Journee, how they work, and our review of their whole offering in my dedicated article here and watch the reel here.

So, to avoid making an SEO cardinal sin, and duplicating content, this blog post is going to be solely about Bilbao, in the same vein as my other Twenties In Transit city guides. However, I’ve gotta start by saying, I HIGHLY rate Journee, I would go on another Journee trip in a heartbeat, and if you’re on the fence about booking a mystery trip with them, JUST DO IT.

The food

Despite many trips to Spain since childhood, I didn’t know much about Bilbao or the Basque Country before my visit - apart from the fact that it’s known for its food. My goodness, it is a foodie’s paradise. The area has a high concentration of Michelin-starred spots, and in general, food is very well priced. I ate pintxos every single day, and my fave Spanish omelette twice a day, throughout the trip.

On our first evening, we went to Cafe Bar Bilbao in the palm-lined Plaza Nueva for dinner, opting for a selection of pintxos instead of a main meal. Everything tasted fresh, and had fantastic flavour. The tomato sauce on the mussels were divine, while the calamari was seasoned so well. The bread, topped with fresh tomatoes and salty anchovies were chef’s kiss.

My favourite activity of the trip was one of the ones organised by Journee: a pintxos and wine walking tour. We learnt so much about pintxos and its place in Basque culture, how it differs from tapas, and of course, enjoyed some amazing food and wine. Each pintxos we ate was a work of art, and packed lots of flavour and more ingredients compared to the area’s main meals. I tried things I wouldn’t have tried if I was simply dining out on my own (e.g. the olive oil collagen on cod and bread; it looked like my nemesis cheese, but was so delicious). My favourite pintxos of the night was in the last bar: shredded duck cooked in a peanut sauce, topped with a caramelised apple. All the wines we tried were excellent too.

The tour was a small group one, and our group gelled well. We all had a laugh as we learnt (and failed to execute) the special pour of the Isastegi Sagardo Naturala cider, and went on to get dessert at the ice cream shop Gelati Gelati with its numerous flavours (I’m talking doughnut flavour to mojito flavour). It was on this tour that I discovered my new favourite drink, a kalimotxo, which is a mix of red wine and coke. Our British brains may say it shouldn’t work, but it really does; it lightens the taste of both drinks, to make a refreshing mix.

The culture

On the food tour, we learnt a lot about the Basque Country’s history - as we walked from place to place, we made some stops where the guide pointed out important structures, and we got a bit of a history lesson in one bar too. It was so interesting; as always, I realise how little we learnt about certain histories at school…

On a separate tour, we headed to Guernica, which was bombed in 1937. It was a sobering visit, learning about what happened on that fateful day, and seeing how the city was rebuilt. We also learnt about the conflict with Picasso’s painting, which our guide advised was bestowed to the Basque people, and still hasn’t been returned to Basque Country (it now currently resides in Madrid).

We got to see the old Guernica tree, which is in a mausoleum, and the new one, which to this day is ceremoniously used for new parliaments and marks the place where important matters are decided.

The sites & surroundings

I know I said I wouldn’t go too much into the Journee aspect of the trip, so that you check out my dedicated Secret London review and the reel on Secret London’s IG, but I have to shout out the incredibly detailed guidebook and itinerary the Journee team created. It had everything from how to get to the airport to advice on local tipping culture, plus listed local sites to visit. The whole city is very walkable - I averaged at 20k steps per day because we saw so much!

One of the main sites of Bilbao that most people know is the Guggenheim Museum. Modern art isn’t particularly my thing (though making up stories about what each piece represents is); however, the museum itself is a particularly striking, cool building. I also loved the Puppy statue outside, and loved the face there were birds living inside the flowers of the big dog. Contrary to this, I did not love the Maman statue… horrid thing. Elsewhere in the city, we visited the Doña Casilda Park, with its beautiful fountains, and headed up above the city via the Funicular for fantastic views of the terracotta rooves and lush green mountains. I loved that the repetitive Bilbao sign formed a gate… and a great photo op.

Although I’ve never watched Game of Thrones, I did visit Gaztelugatxe (Dragonstone aka home to my fave Emelia Clarke). BOY, that was a hard climb. However, the camaraderie of the rest of the group on the tour kept me going, and it was a beautiful view from the top. I also loved how it looked with the staircase winding up the island’s cliff face too. The guide made sure we understood the importance of respecting the nature in the areas surrounding Gaztelugatxe too.

In conclusion, it was a fantastic trip. If Journee hadn’t matched me with Bilbao, I would have probably overlooked the destination, and that would have been a big mistake! We had good weather on most days, but even the thunderstorm on our last evening (and the resulting dash back to the hotel in flip flops) didn’t dampen our love for the city. Once again, I highly recommend Journee, but also a visit to Bilbao.

Why travel is my therapy… and other things to do in Boa Vista, Cape Verde

When it comes to holidays, nine times out of ten, I plan in advance. I save up bit by bit, book the annual leave, and then spend a few months fleetingly anxious about the flight and the prospect of turbulence, lol. This time, I half did that - my brothers and I had planned to do a 2024 trip together, but we left it to five weeks out to book and impromptu chose Cape Verde. This destination hadn't been on my radar before, and a fair few people to whom I mentioned our trip also hadn't heard of the islands, set around 900 kilometres west of Senegal. I've probably said this in various previous blog posts, but it has been one of my favourite places to visit thus far.

In the build up to this trip, my brothers and I have had various stressors - this trip was definitely needed. Travel has long been my therapy of choice: away from my onslaught of responsibilities and different roles in life, I always reset, focus on myself, and gain perspective. Cape Verde is a great place to do that. 

Choice of island 

Cape Verde is home to 10 islands, nine of which are inhabited. Santiago is where the country’s capital city lies, while a lot of people holiday in Sal and Boa Vista. We opted for the latter; the more laid-back island, defined by its beautiful beaches and desert landscape.

Cape Verde’s motto is “no stress”, and it is repeated by locals, tour guides, hotel workers, and everyone we crossed paths with, really. This vibe permeated from the moment we landed; Boa Vista’s airport is mostly outdoors! I felt like I was at a holiday resort already as the sun filled the shaded-but-outdoor passport control line, and we could hear the birds and see a beach bar-style spot in another part of the airport through the dividing glass. 

Hotel resort life 

The resort we stayed at was a huge castle-like structure. The architecture is a combination of Portuguese and styles from mainland Africa. It's all clean lines and symmetry. I'm a sucker for pretty architecture and cool buildings, so was snapping away all around the hotel. 

While there were a fair few people staying at the resort, the humongous pool was pretty empty - especially at the beginning of the week. This was the first holiday in my life where I could swim; learning to swim at age 30 is one of my proudest achievements thus far, battling a mental block I've had for 20+ years, and it is honestly a game changer. Every day in Boa Vista, I swam at least 30 laps; swimming has done wonders for my mental and physical health over the last 9 months, and here, my progress increased ten-fold too. Hey, at home, I only go swimming once a week, for 45 minutes, but I was in the water daily for hours on this trip. I finally faced my fear of swimming ‘in the deep end’, and swimming on my back. There is something about facing your fears, and doing something you've tried and failed at previously, this time succeeding, that gives you a real high, and almost makes you feel invincible. Oh, and it was great to really use the swim-up bar as was intended - hello, Bloody Marys and sangrias.

Speaking of the refreshments, I seriously enjoyed the food. Some resorts can have a pretty naff offering when producing en mass; here, the food was delicious, and well seasoned. At its core, it was rice, pulses, and seafood. I ate my favourite mussels nearly every night, and was in my element. 

My partner always tells me sport is a good way to alleviate stress. Alongside daily laps in the pool, there were plenty sports activities to get involved in at our hotel. My activity of choice was aqua gym - and despite its reputation for being for old biddies, some sections were decently challenging. My brothers opted for water polo and beach volleyball.

Speaking of sport, we were in Cape Verde for the quarter finals of AFCON. I’m not usually a football fan, but it was pretty exciting cheering along a team on a huge screen surrounded by everyone rooting for Cape Verde. Given it was a holiday crowd, it was less rowdy than the usual footie crowds, which give me the ick. Sadly, Cape Verde lost on penalties, but it was still a fun start to the evening. 

Local life 

So, before COVID, I’d never stayed at an all-inclusive resort. I felt you couldn't class it as properly visiting a country, and understanding its way of life, as you barely saw the ‘real’ thing. Well, since then, I have converted - a bit. While I now embrace the utter luxury of chilling at an all-inclusive resort every so often, I still think it's important to get out of the hotel and see at least some of the area you're visiting. We opted away from the standard TUI tour on this occasion, and instead booked a local vendor.

Feeling the wind whip my face as we sped along on the back of the 4x4, looking out over the vast landscapes, driving some road, some rocky dirt paths, and some dunes, felt so freeing. This kind of thing really puts life into perspective: there is so much more out there than work, washing up, and worrying. No looking forward or back, just simply being in the now. 

The tour took us through the island’s main town of Rabil which, with its colourful houses and music playing in the street, kind of gave me Cuba vibes. We stopped at the local pottery shop, the one from which all local pottery on the island comes from. 

Next, we visited the sand dunes, speeding over the ascents and descents - something I'd normally hate, but here, I embraced the speed and turbulent-like feeling. Again, I was pleased with myself for challenging fears; that invincible rush was back. The seemingly endless sand dunes in Boa Vista are like nothing I've ever seen. I literally felt like I was on another planet. Hello, lunar landscape! I visited sand dunes in Port Stephens, Australia, but the vastness and seemingly untouched nature of Boa Vista’s sand dunes felt different. It was mind-blowing.

We also spent time in a local fishing town on this tour, strolling through the market and chatting to locals who left us with a smile, even when we weren't buying anything. We visited churches (one built as recently as 2015) and a shipwreck from the 60s, which will soon be totally gone.

As I always joke, my English heritage comes out on holiday; my arms burn with too much sun, and as such, on the way back, I sat inside the 4x4 rather on the back in the open air. It afforded me some time to chat with our tour guide one on one, where we spoke what life is truly like as a local, good and bad. The main issue is lack of infrastructure - something that hopefully more money from the recent increase in tourism will bring - and as with UK, the cost of living increase. This made me think about all the things I take for granted at home when I'm worrying about X, Y, Z… again, another perspective builder; something in recent months I've lacked a little. 

Me time 

I am blessed with great family, partner, and friends; however, sometimes, me time is what's needed when life gets a little stressful. Funnily enough, as an overthinker and a realist, I can sometimes get in my head too much, but drop in a likkle sun, and a likkle sightseeing, and it's the perfect mix. I regularly solo travel for that very reason.

I travelled to Cape Verde with my brothers, and our trip consisted of doing our own thing for a good portion of the day, but sharing dinner, some activities, and an evening swim (I relished finally being able to join swimming races, even though I lost each time, haha). It was a great balance. 

While I wholly enjoyed my solo laps in the pool, and reading chick lits by the pool, my favourite bit of me time was strolling along the beach. Stepping on the wet, spongy, pristine sand when the waves have just gone over it is so centreing. I didn't care what I looked like as the waves splashed, the wind blew, and the oceanic desert was stretched in front of me, the stretch of my smile rivalling it. The twinge of the sun burn on my head was the only thing that sent me back to my sun lounger by the pool. 

Another thing I've taken up doing on holiday in the last few years is heading to the spa - boujie, I know. I opted for the rather reasonably priced ‘after sun’ treatment and back massage. I'll admit, the back massage was a little too ‘deep tissue’ for me, but the after sun treatment was blissful. Every time I go to a spa abroad, I resolve I will book myself in for monthly massages back home… I never do. Maybe that's why I get stressed in the UK, eh? 

To summise, a break in Boa Vista was just what the doctor ordered - and an impromptu gem; I would return in a heartbeat. I'm returning home feeling far less stressed, and with a game plan for any troubles - or simply letting it go. As Cape Verdians say “no stress, no stress.”

Combining a city and beach break... and other things to do in Singapore

Charles Dickens may have spoken of a tale of two cities; however, Singapore is like a tale of three or four! From the laid-back vibes of the island of Sentosa to the metropolis of the city and its combination of traditional and futuristic, Singapore offers a bit of everything. 

Now, I can't speak about Singapore's politics or anything like that; I'm speaking purely as a tourist. I really loved my trip. I travelled with my friend and former flatmate, with whom I’ve visited Brussels, Budapest and Copenhagen, and we had a great time. Topline: the people are super friendly; the cost of food and drink is like London; transport is cheaper than London; and everything just seems to be super organised and run like clockwork.

Beach break

We opted to stay in Sentosa, a man-made island in the south of Singapore. In fact, the most southerly point of South East Asia was on our resort grounds. With the beach and pool mere moments away from our seaview room and the plethora of hotel restaurants, we were in paradise. After a very long flight and little sleep, we made our way for dinner and to enjoy an evening dip in the pool to start the holiday as we meant to go on.

We'd nabbed a deal at the Shangri-La - very fancy, I know - and the resort had everything we could need for a relaxing stay. We spent mornings, evenings and sometimes even full days lazing poolside reading, in the pool itself, or sitting in the jacuzzi section. While it was one big pool for both adults and children, an area was sealed off for adults only and it made a big difference. The cocktails served poolside were incredible, my favourite being a summer spize, which was watermelon, jalepeno and tequila. It wasn't overly sweet nor overly spicy. I didn't neglect the other watermelon cocktails on the menu though... but I did bypass any that didn't contain the pink fruit. What can I say? I love watermelon.

A short amble away was Siloso Beach, with a little private section for the hotel, plus the bit for the general public. I spent time on both, actually preferring the latter with its softer sands (originally shipped in from a couple of the neighbouring countries) and views behind the little islets of the many boats. From the hotel section, you had an enviable view of the cable cars, which my travel buddy went on, and was very complimentary of the island views from the high up spot.

I'm so glad we chose to stay on the island - we truly got the best of both worlds: city break and resort life. The weather was hot for the entire duration of our stay; however, we did have a few tropical showers. These were bursts of 10 minutes tops, then back to sun, and at one point I was able to swim in the rain, which was a rather cathartic experience. It was in this pool that I finally started making progress on another of my 30 before 30 items: I started swimming again, thanks to my friend.

My biggest indulgence on the trip has to be the two, back-to-back treatments I had in the spa. First, I had an aloe wrap to soothe my skin after all the sun; I've had one before, which was great, but this was even better. As well as being wrapped like a little cling film, aloe gel burrito, the therapist added a heated blanket on top of me while the aloe sunk in. It was so blissful that I drifted off to sleep. Then second, my God, I had the BEST massage I've ever had in my life. I've had many a massage in many a country and many a hotel, and none even came close to this experience. It was meant to be a neck and back massage, but the therapist massaged my whole body with techniques I'd never felt before. It felt like she had 10 hands, massaging and healing my sore back. It was heavenly. I'd not have batted an eyelid if she'd had quoted me £300 for it, but it didn't even cost a third of that.

Lush flora

Surrounding our hotel was an abundance of flora and fauna, and in the morning, we could hear beautiful bird song from our balcony. We spied the perpetrators of these different songs on our balcony and around the resort grounds, plus a plethora of other creatures like peacocks and large monitor lizards.

On one of our mornings, we joined a jungle walk. Well, we meant to join a group one, but in the end, it was just us two and the guide. I had hoped to see some monkeys, given the signs around the hotel and on balconies warning guests to mind their possessions in their presence, but we learnt that while they do frequent the area, they are coming out and about less and less.

Speaking of flora and fauna, many will be familiar with the joys of Changi Airport, and the plethora of things you can do there, such as seeing a waterfall, visiting a butterfly garden, watching new releases at the free cinema, and admiring a cactus garden... it's like a full day out! Word of warning though, apart from the waterfall and the shopping mall (the Jewel), everything else is only accessible after you check in. Many airlines do allow for early check-in, but BA is not one of them...

Sightseeing in the city

The most recognisable landmarks of Singapore are in the city centre; Gardens by the Bay, the Marina Bay Sands Hotel building, and the merlion statue to name a few. We visited all but the statue - though we did see it across the bay from a distance.

First up, Marina Bay Sands. As we walked around the bay and towards it, you could see it in all its majesty. A taxi driver expressed some discomfort that it was so synonymous with their country, which as a commercial entity - a hotel - I could see why, but it is an imposing structure that is impressive both inside and out. It smelt gorgeous upon entry on the ground level, and that precision of excellent ambience continued up to our drinking spot of the evening, located on the 57th floor. We had a few drinks at C'est La Vie as day turned to night, and the panoramic views over the city were very impressive. My friend made the booking a month in advance to secure our spot, and it was worth it. Like everywhere else on our visit, the staff were friendly, and the service quick. Note, because of the lofty heights and the fact it is outdoors, it was windy, but to be honest, in the 31-degree plus temperatures, the breeze was welcomed.

Gardens by the Bay is a must visit, not least for its twice-nightly light shows at the Super Trees. We first visited the Cloud Garden, which had a temporary Avatar installation. To be honest, it was pretty cool without the Avatar angle - think Barbican Observatory on a larger scale. Following this visit, we ambled though the outdoor area to bag a prime position for the ever popular light show. We got there a good 45 minutes prior and people were already claiming spaces. The iconic structures come to life with light and sound effects for around 15 minutes once it got dark, and it was absolutely epic!! It's super dramatic and captivating, as the movement of the light matches the sounds; we heard classical compositions as we watched the lights.

As I mentioned earlier, I really loved the juxtaposition between old and new in Singapore. As well as these futuristic landmarks, we also visited the Sri Mariamman temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, which is adorned in ornate statutes on the outside and beautiful, colourful murals on the inside. Guests and locals alike can visit, but you must remove your footwear outside and have your legs, chest and shoulders covered. Covering shawls and scarfs are available at the entrance. We also passed by the Buddha Tooth Relic temple, but didn't venture inside.

As for the rest of the sightseeing, we took a brief meander east of the centre to snap photos of the colourful houses of Koon Seng Road, then got the bus to Little India. If you're in the market for jewellery; my goodness, this is the place to go: gorgeous, gold jewellery twinkles out of most shops. I was like a magpie, but managed to resist... until I went on a full on shopping spree in Chinatown that is. Hey, I needed souvenirs!

A dedicated sightseeing bus aside (yes, of course I went on one here, y'all know I love them), when it comes to travelling around the city, the MRT (tube) is SUPER easy to use. You tap in and out using contactless - same goes for buses too, actually - and even though it goes against every fibre of a Londoner's being, you stand on the left when on the escalators. I've got to note, a little novelty for me was the ceiling handles on the tube being low enough for me to comfortably hold and balance myself with, unlike ours here!

A foodie destination

Singapore is 100% a foodie destination. The dedication to flavour is fantastic. I couldn't get enough. As is the running theme of juxtaposition, the food is influenced by multiple cuisines: Chinese, Indian and Malaysian fare, and it's all so damn good. Starting at my hotel, which usually wouldn't be a fair representation of a country's cuisine, there were four types of breakfast available each morning and I had more nasi gorengs than I care to admit. For a couple of my poolside lunches, I had this is open sandwich with sundried tomatoes and ham. Nothing to write home about, right? Wrong! Even with such a basic order, they added layers of flavour to the dish. Add the fact these and the cocktails were bought directly to our deckchairs with just the swish of a QR code... perfection.

As for the city, well, the Hawker Centres are renowned. Huge food markets that are a large part of Singaporeon culture, these centres host a variety of vendors serving a wide range of food for affordable prices. Some even have Michelin-starred vendors! We visited two Hawker centres during our stay, including the famous Lau Pa Sat. I ventured away from my nasi goreng here, and tried the signature chicken rice, which although looks plain, is packed full of flavour. Another spot we made sure to dine in was Chinatown. We made a beeline for the recommended dim sum restaurant Yum Cha. My fave dish there was the bbq pork bao - soft, sweet and savoury all at the same time.

I didn't go to Singapore with any expectations at all as I'd been so busy with work and various responsibilities. However, I'm glad, as I was very pleasantly surprised. If the country was closer to the UK, Singapore would be somewhere I returned to again and again fairly regularly.

The art of doing nothing... and other things to do in Crete, Greece*

On each of my trips abroad in the last seven years or so, I usually write a "... and other things to do in..." blog post that is both informative for readers who wish to visit that city or town, and a diary of sorts for me, so that I can look back and recall my trip in great detail. Usually, these blog posts have a good mix of top tips, sightseeing suggestions and other elements that readers can apply to their own trips... but, reader, not this time. That little asterisks at the end of the title is not there by accident. It is not the fault of my utterly relaxed thumbs accidentally hitting a key. For once, I took a proper, disconnect-from-reality holiday; I didn't punctuate my schedule with tourist attractions and restaurants, I had no set plans, just seven days ahead of me, armed with sun cream and some swimmers. And, boy, did I need it. So while this piece is littered with a few tips for Crete and Greece as a whole, it is more on the diary side on this occasion. Read on if you're nosy, or browse more informative posts here.

While I love the life I have built so far, the work I do to maintain and progress it has started to have an effect on both my mind and body. Day to day, I hold down a full-time job, two regular freelance roles and running my own business, not to mention keeping on top of my relationships and home, as well as my crusade against the garden slugs (it's currently 2-0 to them, urgh). For the longest while, most of my days are completely planned down to the hour from the moment my eyes open at 7, until 11/11.30 at night. Yes, I get a lot done, and I'm definitely receiving the rewards, but it has started to take a toll; it is not sustainable long term. Anyone watched the 2007 remake of Freaky Friday? I'm literally like the mum with all the phones and reminders. It's time to stop, smell the roses, and enjoy where I am now. If you are in a similar position, here's how I really and truly switched off on this trip to Crete - which can be applied to wherever you head off to.

Combat any issues before they arrive

Where possible, of course. I implored that this break to Greece would not be hectic or problematic in any way. I prepared all my freelance work for the rest of the month in advance, got everything to a place with Cards Inclusive, so that it could tick over for a week, and probably the easiest of the lot, made a comprehensive handover for my day job. This was not a holiday where I'd be responding to any WhatsApp messages that were seeking if "I could do something really quickly", and my various teams respected that.

While this holiday came around quickly, I did a few little Googles about Crete beforehand, so I could pack anything I may need for comfort. I learned that you can't flush any loo roll in Greece, so travelled with tiny bin bags, like nappy sacks, so I felt everything was a little more sanitary. Also, I packed bug spray, but thankfully only needed it once.

Choose your type of trip

I joined my friend, who we'll call the "boujie traveller" (and great holiday photographer I must add), and she pretty much arranged everything; all I had to was check us in and get us to the airport. We had previously travelled a few times in Australia, and it's just drama free - we do our own separate things, but also enjoy indulging in good food, drinks and times together.

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

We went all-inclusive - my first time ever. I couldn't get over how you can just get up and get a drink whenever you want, a snack whenever you want, and enjoy an unlimited buffet at meal times. Yes, I know. Where have I been? The food was nice - while it was nothing to write home about, it wasn't bad, and there was a nice selection of local dishes - and the alcoholic drinks were free poured. Result! I often had various types of cakes for dessert, sometimes treating them as a sample platter.

I must say, TUI really embodied the term 'service with a smile', and was very visible at check-in, on the flight, leading to the transfer, and even at the hotel. The hotel staff themselves were also incredibly friendly and helpful. It really added to the overall good and relaxed vibe of the trip.

Listen to your body

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

For the first time in ages, I could just listen to my body's every whim, not constrained by time, a to-do list I needed to tick off, or any responsibilities I had to fulfil by the end of the day. Hungry? Eat. Thirsty? Get a drink. Hot? Move in the shade or take a dip in the pool. My time was truly my own, and I haven't felt like that in a while. I read a book - a proper paperback by the pool - for the first time in years! I napped in the sun to lively tunes on the tannoy and the sounds of the sea. I danced in the pool at Aqua Zumba and to the resort's club dance, which was played three times a day, every day (the dance sequence is forever engrained in my head now). It was the right kind of 9 to 5: my office was my sunlounger, my job was working on me. One session of Aqua Aerobics and an early morning run were my only workouts, and they were because I wanted to, not because I felt I had to. I truly listened to my body, and I had some of the best sleep I've had in months!

Entertainment and excursions

Usually, I'm someone who feels I have to see all the main sights, I should stay out late to make the most of it. But who is this holiday for? Me! Most of the time I do want to do those things anyway, but I made sure I wasn't doing it on this trip purely out of some warped obligation.

For the most part, my main excursions were to the pool, to the sea, and to the pool bar, which sat kind of in between. However, on the sixth day, I ventured further than 500 metres from the pool (we'd previously done a little 10-minute walk in the evening, just down the streets of Maleme) and I hopped on "The Little Fun Train", which was a sightseeing road train I'd seen advertised multiple times throughout the complex and on our drive to the hotel. I embarked on a tour called "The Pleasures of Crete"; it was just €20 and far exceeded what I'd expected. The tour took us through villages almost untouched by mass tourism, such as Kolimbari, Afrata and Astratigos; stopped at the gorgeous 17th-century Monastery of Gonia which, while small, was serene and offered a magnificent view of the coast below; and to the Terra Creta Estate where we learned how olive oil is made. We took a tour of the factory, plus had a delicious tasting of different oils on bread and actual olives. We even briefly learned how other by-products, like olive soaps, are made. These olives are usually harvested in January and February and ship worldwide. There were a whole host of special ones available.

The hotel was family friendly, so the majority of the entertainment each night catered to that audience, and often the children in holiday mode were running about the club. We did however watch a fire show on our first night, and went for a drink at Greek Night, which boasted music and dancing... and the distinct smell of Ouzo.

Our third and final venture out of the hotel was for dinner at a seaside restaurant where we enjoyed pork gyros and were witnesses to a beautiful proposal on the beach.

One thing I didn't do, but my travel partner did, was watch the sunrise. She naturally woke up quite early on our second day and went out to watch it. I awoke hours later to find that she'd accidentally locked herself out the room, and was patiently awaiting me to wake her up to let her back in. Her pics looked glorious though; and when else are you going to be less than a minute away from the sea so you can watch it in your PJs?

Reconnect with nature

The sunrise leads on quite nicely to my next point. Nature can be so soothing; one of my favourite things to do is to listen to the birds or walk through the grass barefoot. Natural elements are another thing that was super restorative on this trip to Crete. Paddling in the sea, looking through the clear water at the schools of little fish. I could spend hours watching them swim and hearing the sounds of the sea. On a few evenings, we did the latter, listening from the strip of sand while the sunset.

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

Now, for someone with some Caribbean heritage, certain parts of my skin really can't take the sun. Namely, my arms and face. From stinging burn to itchy prickly heat, I have to be super careful in the sun - I tan a beautiful colour though, if I do say so myself. To soothe my skin, on my last full day, I had an aloe vera wrap at the hotel's spa. It came with a massage as the therapist applied the aloe vera all over my body, plus a scalp massage too. I was then wrapped like a little burrito to let the natural elements of the aloe do its thing. It most definitely helped!

All in all, while I holidayed in a way I haven't for over 10 years - with no plans and just lazing - it was much needed. I feel completely rejuvenated and healthy (in mind, at least... all-inclusive food and rum ain't necessarily healthy for body eh haha). Ready to go for the next one, and ready to take this zen attitude into my day-to-day life.

Getting out of my comfort zone... and other things to do in Colmar, France

At least once a year, I like to go on a solo adventure. This style of travel enables me to travel at my own pace, see places on my list that my loved ones may not wish to visit, and it is pretty empowering. However, prior to this getaway, my previous solo trips have usually been to English-speaking countries (like Australia and Scotland), or to join an organised tour (as I did for Morocco and Cuba) - or just for the day via the Eurostar. However, this time, I decided to up the ante a little. Armed with my Duolingo app and over a decade-old GCSE French skills, I embarked on a three-day trip to Colmar in France. By train. With a small backpack. A mini interrailing adventure, some might say!

Colmar is a town in the Alsace region that I’ve longed to visit for a while. So much so, in fact, that it even earned its own spot on my #30before30 list. Situated close to the French-German and French-Swiss borders, the medieval architecture and quaint town centre look like something out of a fairytale, and I had to see it first hand. This holiday definitely put me out of my comfort zone in a variety of ways, but all with positive outcomes.

The trains

The moment Eurostar announced their ‘£35 one way’ sale in February, I knew what I had to do. After an hour of logistics and planning between the Eurostar and TGV websites, I booked my tickets to Paris and Colmar. Just three-to-four train rides from my Sussex home and I could be in Colmar! Hey, that's fewer changes than I make to get to some places in London! The journey would include a four-hour stopover in Paris each way - a city I've visited on various occasions in the last 11 years - so initially, I wasn’t out of my comfort zone at all. I knew I needed to get about with ease, so avoided large luggage; I decided to pack super lightly (the lightest I've ever packed for an overnight(s) stay, actually), fitting everything in my little backpack and handbag.

Where being out of my comfort zone came into play was when it came to understanding the train route. For the fourth train, my ticket said I needed to change at Strasbourg, but my third train was headed to Colmar as its final destination anyway. Initially, I was very confused, intently listening to announcements, but understanding very few sentences. Once I checked the SNCF website, it showed there was a 15-minute stop in Strasbourg - no changes needed on my way to Colmar. However, on my return journey, I did have to change. I used the same website’s arrivals and departures board to coordinate my platform change. The travel Gods were smiling down on me: although there are around 30 platforms at Strasbourg, my platforms were less than two minutes apart, and my onward train was delayed by 10 minutes anyway, so I had ample time to get to the right place. On the Eurostar back, it was like the Eurostar company had been confused, and/or had a glitch, as my seat was double booked! I was already seated when the other traveller and her husband arrived, and we both showed each other our tickets, and they were the same. We had a laugh about it, and as I was settled, they sought to rectify it with the conductor.

France is still pretty strict on the Covid regulations when it comes to public transport: before you even enter King’s Cross’ Eurostar area on your way to France, a guard instructs all masks are on properly, then before passport control, another guard scans your vaccine QR code. If your vaccine is over 9 months old, it must include the QR code for your booster too. This was the first time since I’ve been vaccinated that my QR code has actually been scanned, not just looked at, and I’ve been to three countries in that time…

Language

A big element of being out of my comfort zone was the language barrier. Unlike many tourist towns and cities I've visited, almost no one back home had heard of Colmar, and upon arrival, I realised there were very few British tourists here. Not just that, but where I was staying, about 15 minutes out of the centre, there weren't many tourists full stop. In the town centre, there were more English speakers working in the shops and at attractions, but even the other tourists were mostly from their neighbouring countries like Germany and Switzerland. While at first, this made me a little uncomfortable, soon after, I very much embraced it. For years, I've been learning French on and off, and being in Colmar on my own fully immersed me in the language and helped to expand my vocabulary. I even had to learn how to say "there's a cockroach in my bathroom, help!" in French - that insect definitely put me out of my comfort zone!

Sightseeing

Usually, my go-to routine when travelling solo is to board a city sightseeing bus, get a little history and overview of the city, then stick my headphones in, listen to my music, and explore the attractions more closely on foot. I did a version of that in Colmar, but this time, the other way around. Even something as simple as this was new for me - not completely out of my comfort zone per say, but a little different. Without context or my bearings from that preliminary tour, I just walked and got lost in the weaving streets of the Old Town, snapping pics of the beautiful bold buildings and their intricate roofs, sometimes accidentally circling back to the same spot or retracing my steps.

After getting my bearings on foot, I bought a ticket for a 30-minute boat tour along Petite Venise. I boarded the small wooden boat with a German family; the host asked what languages we'd like and thankfully did all three (French, German and English). It was beautiful to see the town from the water, and also venture into an area with more wildlife and bountiful bird calls.

After disembarking, I walked back into the main area to admire the architecture of Maison Pfister and neighbouring Saint Martin Collegial, and then intended to make my way to the Unterlinden Museum, but instead decided on a whim to board the tourist train - a train version of my fave bus tours, woohoo! I got to learn the history of some of the impactful buildings, as well as other fun facts I otherwise would not have known. I mean, who else is counting the heads on the facade of Maison des Tetes? It's worth carrying a bit of cash as you venture around Colmar's town centre; I had to run to an ATM to pay for the tourist train, and also had to find a different shop for bottled water at one point earlier in the trip, due to a minimum card spend.

Unfortunately, one thing I missed out on was the Alsace wine route. I'd really hoped it for my itinerary, but only the full-day tours were available during my stay (half-day tours were available at other times of the week) and I didn't want to lose out on eight hours in Colmar itself. Without a car, pre-organised tours are the best way to do the wine tours and the castle.

Dining alone

For some reason, I have absolutely no qualms over eating breakfast or lunch alone in a restaurant, but I have a sticking point when it comes to dinner. Of course, I've dined on my evening meal on other travels, but I'd always eat as quickly as possible. However, here, I had no choice but to enjoy a long, indulgent meal, solo. On my first night, I chose to dine close to my hotel. As noted above, this meant absolutely no English-speaking staff. However, I apologised for my poor French (en francais, of course) and the waiters were very patient and gentil to me... but all the while speaking French, so I really had to practise. I realise the locals here love veal, so I made sure to have at least one veal-based meal during my stay. On the first night, this was washed down with a few Saint Germain spritzes because it was the restaurant’s speciality.

Overall, I am very proud of myself for stepping out of my comfort zone, and it’s given me the confidence to consider a long train-based trip. A luxury interrailing trip perhaps… hey, Orient Express, do you have any deals going?!

Bonus paragraph: A brief interlude in Paris

It wouldn't be a truly accurate article on my trip if I didn't detail my time in Paris, which bookended my time in Colmar. I spent around four hours in Paris each way. One of my favourite places in Paris is the fountains outside the Louvre, so I made a beeline for this from Gare du Nord upon arrival in France. I then decided to take a Batobus river cruise down the Seine; it is a cheap and yet lovely alternative to just strolling along the banks myself. Unfortunately, I missed the first boat of the day by mere minutes, which meant by the time I boarded, I couldn't do the whole loop otherwise would have missed my train to Colmar. However, I made up for it on my trip home by visiting my favourite sites again, like Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower (sorry, I'm a basic tourist!), making friends with a Californian tourist, and visiting Laduree for macarons. They were so polite and lovely, and I chose some unique flavours like black sesame and the Marie Antoinette, the latter of which was quite zesty. A great few hours spent in the French capital on both travel days.

How to properly unwind on a city break... and other things to do in Budapest, Hungary

To say life has been hectic recently would be an understatement. Work, freelance, running a business, medical appointments, coordinating a surprise event... it's been a lot. Throw in the threat of a third world war, the constant flow of demoralising news day in, day out, and it's enough to make anyone want to curl up in a ball and just sleep for a week.

Often with my city breaks, I plan to pack in as much as possible, as not to miss a thing, but not this time. This trip to Budapest would be a well-earned break. However, down to the last few hours before travelling, the trip nearly didn’t happen; we ummed and ahhed about even going, given the devastating and scary situation in neighbouring Ukraine. However, after a lot of late-night research the night before, we decided to still board our flight early the next morning.

Pace things out

Usually, my city breaks are two to three days long. However, the addition of just one extra day made all the difference for Budapest. We were able to enjoy activities without watching the clock, often coming back to the hotel mid-afternoon for an hour or two to relax, before any evening activities. We had time to stroll and just take everything in. On the first day, we impromptu went to the Castle District where we could linger at lookouts, stroll the area and wall walk, and admire the ornate buildings at a slow pace. Perhaps in an unrelaxing turn, we headed ascended on foot, but we were sure to get the funicular back down the hillside. From above, the view over the Danube River and surrounding buildings were like something out of a postcard.

Seek out a spa

Is there anything more relaxing than a spa day? I think not. As we were staying for four days, we were able to dedicate a full day to visiting Szechenyi Baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe. Made up of 18 thermal baths, with temperatures varying from 28 to 38 degrees, Szechenyi is HUGE, situated in a gorgeous neoclassical yellow building. Outside, you’ll find two large baths and one swimming pool, and inside lie the 15 more (including a beer bath…) We were going to have a phone-free day, and marked out our route from the hotel on a map, but Covid passes were required for entry, so in the end, we took one phone. It is worth noting that the only two times we needed a Covid pass were to enter the country and to enter this spa. We opted for a private cabin each when we pre-booked our tickets. There are hundreds of them, each secured using a digital key on your wrist. They felt very safe to leave our belongings in and were great to freely get changed in with privacy; the alternative is the communal changing areas with lockers, like at a UK swimming pool.

Despite the nippy 12 degree temperatures, with the sun on our face and warm waters surrounding us, it felt truly like we were on holiday and all our cares washed away. For something a little more up-tempo, you can head into the middle of the left pool, which has a current running through it, whisking you around in a circle around a central bath. I attempted it in one of the slower settings - it was fun! Inside, the various baths feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to Ancient Rome, or the like, where you’ll relax under grand ornate ceilings. Frankly, we felt it had a Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. Specifically, a series of individual versions of the bathroom the trio brew polyjuice potion in, for any Harry Potter fans out there.

Eat, drink and be merry

Oh, how we ate on this trip; and eating feeds the soul and helps us feel content, right? We started with two breakfasts on the day of arrival - a humble croissant at the airport, followed by a sit-down, cooked breakfast at the grand Gerbeaud, a Parisian, old world-style eatery, established in 1858 - and continued on a similar path.

Hungarian food is quite meat-heavy, so as I was travelling with a vegetarian, we opted for more world foods, with Hungarian twists. One great dinner we had was at Osteria, a delicious Italian in Pest. I had a roasted duck, caramelised onion and chilli pizza, followed by a gorgeous chocolate pannacotta. There was also a creative selection of cocktails - I tried basil wine, but then went firmly back to rose margaritas - as well as a range of gin and tonics, including floral, local, and tropical options.

On another evening, we went for an Israeli-Mediterranean meze at Mazel Tov. With a 'bring the outdoors inside' style and live acoustic guitar music, the whole dining experience here was very relaxed. Yet again, we had two courses, eating the delicious dips, salads and pita, until our stomachs and hearts were full. Soothing live music seemed to be the theme of that evening, as we also stopped by Doblo wine bar on the way back to the hotel who, under their atmospheric lighting, had a live singer to accompany our nightcap.

Of course, you can't visit Budapest without checking out a ruin bar (or two). Housed in derelict buildings or unused spaces, these bright and bold bars offer refuge from the cold, good vibes and cheap drinks. The closest to our hotel was the well-known Szimpla Kert. The best way I can describe it is a series of bars next to each other with the fronts cut out and communal seating for all - think food market but indoors, without the food, and with live music. It is perfect for a casual few drinks (or for many drinks, if you’re on a stag or hen!)

Other spots we visited on our travels were the anglicised, but still lovely Cafe Brunch Budapest - situated opposite Central Market Hall, which we had intended to visit but it was closed - and brewery Mad House, where I tried a beer, gin and lemonade cocktail, and ate more duck.

Leisurely sightsee, instead of ‘go, go, go’

Anyone who either knows me personally or follows my travels knows I love a sightseeing bus. Yes, they're touristy, but they're oh so convenient and offer introductory knowledge to the city you're visiting. We opted for a 48-hour ticket in Budapest, which included a boat tour. It enabled us to see a lot of the city centre from both land and water with ease, learning about the buildings and their history, as we basked in the sun (and wind on the bus’ top deck...) The following day we did another loop of the bus just to pass the time, and enjoy the city in new weather: in the snow. We were lucky, as we stayed opposite the beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, so we were able to join the route with ease. Nothing seemed rushed or stressful, but we managed to pack in a lot.

Speaking of religious buildings, Budapest's St Stephen's Basilica is one of the most beautiful churches I've ever been in - a record previously held by Barcelona's Sagrada Familia. Fairly modern in the scheme of things, as it was completed in 1905, the gold, the frescos, and the grandness of it all were incredible. I personally find religious buildings soothing and peaceful, so it was another way to relax and take some time to reflect. Less peaceful though was the panoramic terrace at the top of the dome, which we accessed by a kind of precarious winding metal staircase (but got the lift down, thankfully); however, it was lovely to see the city from above again, similar to the way we started our trip in the Castle District.

Contradictory to our chilled-out vibes on the rest of our trip, we also visited the House of Terror, the museum that detailed the Soviet Union's rule after World War Two. The museum taught me a lot about a period I knew nothing about. Ironically, we stumbled across a support rally and concert for Ukraine after our spa visit the day before, which was run by this museum.

For the whole trip, we took things at a good pace, had a lot of respites, and my travel partner (my ex-flatmate) and I ensured we did things we both enjoyed. We found the city was great in the day, and even more lovely by night, all lit up - something my brother has specifically pointed out after his visit a few years ago. The Hungarian people were lovely too, from taxi drivers to waiters and waitresses. The thing that really made us smile was the drivers when we were pedestrians crossing the road. We’re not sure if it’s a rule there, but they always went out of their way to stop and let us cross. All in all, a thoroughly relaxing escape.

A return to international travel... and other things to do in Copenhagen, Denmark

Oh, international travel, how I've missed you. The joy of exploring, hearing other languages, and experiencing things you can't at home. I’m thankful to be privileged enough to say that travel has been such a big part of my identity for the last decade, so being able to do so again made me very content. I couldn't stop smiling behind my mask (even during take-off and landing, despite having an enduring dislike of the sensation).

The destination this time was Copenhagen, Denmark. I'd wanted to visit the canal-side city for a few years now, and as luck would have it, ticket prices, red lists, and lateral flow tests lined up just right to make it possible. However, having not travelled to Europe since before the pandemic, since before Brexit, and generally having not gotten on a plane in well over a year, there was plenty to remember...

Covid must-haves

The biggest change to international travel has, of course, been the introduction of Covid regulations. At the time of booking, flying, and writing this piece, Denmark was a non-red list country and, before we flew, travellers only had to take a day 2 lateral flow test. Murphy's law, this changed while we were in Denmark, but thankfully, we were due to return just before the changes came into effect. For the past year, I was under the impression it was pretty convoluted to travel, but actually, once you're prepared, it is fine. Here's what you'll need to do:

- Pre-book your relevant test(s) for your return to the UK (be that a day 2 lateral flow, a PCR, or whatever else private test the government is charging for at the mo…)
- Have your vaccine passport to hand (on your phone suffices, but a printout is also fine)
- Fill out a passenger locater form. You’ll need your passport, vaccine information and pre-booked test information to do this. You can only complete this 48 hours before you land in the UK, but you can start it beforehand and get an email link sent to you to complete the rest at the right time. It's simple to complete on your phone if you don't have access to a laptop.

On the way out of the UK, have your vaccine passport to hand at the gate (alongside the regular requirements of passport and boarding pass). On the way back, you'll need those three, plus your completed passenger locator form, with its QR code at the top.

In Denmark, you'll need to show your vaccine passport to do anything indoors, from eating to entering attractions, drinking to dining in the hotel restaurant for breakfast. I got more use out of my vaccine passport in the first hour of being in the country than I have in the last six months in the UK. Our hotel gave us their own Covid pass once we showed our official one at check-in, which we had to display on our tables at brekkie.

Planning your trip

I rely on lists and reminders SO much in daily life (I always joke that I'm like Jamie Lee Curtis' character in the 2003 Freaky Friday with her million phones, alarms and things to coordinate), and travelling is no different. However, it's not foolproof; my packing list did not include a plug adaptor! What even are they again? In a post-Covid world, I also recommend making restaurant bookings, at least for dinner. We found that most restaurants we visited were fully booked, and while we did have dinner reservations, pre-dinner drinks were often enjoyed outside instead. We were surprised how common alfresco dining in nearly December is in Copenhagen - there are fires, blankets and electric heaters abound.

While we visited a few eateries, the standouts were Bøf & Ost, ideally located next to a public Christmas tree; Restaurant Tight for fab starters and veggie options; and Nyhavns Færgekro for scrumptious Danish meatballs (served with potatoes, cranberry sauce and red cabbage). The latter, which was recommended by an ex-colleague/friend of mine, has 20 different aquavit (schnapps) that they brew themselves, and is set in the building that once housed the shipping company White Star Line; it was where the locals could purchase tickets to the Titanic. Everything we ate on our trip was so well seasoned. And the pastries? Sweet, soft and delicious. We also noted in the indoor food market, TorvehallerneKBH, how decent the alcohol measures were too...

If you have access to the internet whilst abroad included in your mobile plan, everything is quite simple (I don't actually have access, but my travel buddy did!) We used CityMapper to get from the airport to the city centre, and walked everywhere else. And actually, if you don't have internet, the Danish folk are so unbelievably friendly and helpful. Our London sensibilities were surprised, but welcomed it. It must be all that hygge.

See the seasonal sights

I've honestly never seen as many Christmas trees per square mile as I saw on this city break. And I blaaaaady loved it. From those being sold on the street to those decorating the centres of markets or squares, they were everywhere. Don't even start me on Tivoli Gardens - but more on that shortly. We visited three Christmas markets on our first day, starting near our hotel and ending at Kongens Nytorv. If there was a takeaway from the markets, it would be to try the gløgg. It's a must. Mulled wine, with a shot of additional spirit - I opted for rum each time. And if you want something to soak it up, you can't go wrong with the mini Nutella pancakes or æbleskiver (dough balls with sugar and jam).

Right, back to Tivoli Gardens. The place is MAGICAL. The team dress the whole venue seasonally, and my goodness, it looks like no expense is spared and no detail missed. The gardens are gorgeous, with the trees lit up at night (we enjoyed æbleskiver with gløgg by the water, which was lit beautifully), and the rides and fairground games are fab. I'm not a ride person (see: dislike of flight sensations in the intro), but I still went on one, and it was great. The Danish peeps bring their atmospheric lighting A-game, especially when it comes to fairy lights (both in and out of Tivoli Gardens). I mean, it does make sense, as their daylight hours feel short - not Iceland levels, but still a little darker in winter than the UK. Sunrise was at about 8.15am during our late November visit, with the sun setting before 4pm.

Visit the canals

We visited the famous Nyhavns waterfront a few times during our trip, admiring the colourful façades. We also took the waters on an hour-long boat tour of the canals and inner-city harbours, which provided a brilliant overview of the city's main canal-side attractions, some of its history, and the various communities’ way of life. On this tour, we sailed right up to the famed Little Mermaid statue (which we learned was commissioned by the son of the founder of Carlsberg, after he watched a ballet performance of the well-known tale in the city). The live commentary also further proved what my travel buddy and I had pondered ourselves already: the Danish are quite ingenious. One example is the city incinerator, which offers the public views over Copenhagen and neighbouring Malmo in Sweden from the top, and boasts a year-round ski slope. In addition, they really do make the most of available space; many entrances to bars and restaurants were below street level, with steps descending to what would be basement level, but boasted high windows still.

Other local sights

Aside from Nyhavn, another of the city's main sights is the Church of our Saviour Tower, which gets more narrow the further up you head, with a good portion of the climb on the exterior of the building. Unfortunately, due to the morning's rain, it was closed when we visited, so as we strolled back through the centre, we ducked into the 17th-century Round Tower instead. We got impressive views of the city from the viewing platform at the top, and had fun inside the Greek stonewashed-style interior attempting to snap funny panorama pics.

All in all, the trip was a thoroughly enjoyable return to international travel, and has me itching for my next break. Everything is changing so quickly with travel rules and regulations though, so I would advise not booking too far in advance, and doing your research in relation to the pandemic before committing to the trip.

*Please note, all Covid information was correct at the time of publication.

Turning a staycation into a vacation... and other things to do in the Scottish Highlands

2021 is all about the staycation. The travel companies know it, and we know it. Cornwall's holiday homes, hotels and hostels were 98% booked up for this summer as of April 2021, according to Cornwall Live, while the Peak District has had a huge increase in visitors this year, according to ITV. However, staycationing may not always feel like the ‘vacation’ we crave. Be it the weather, the similar culture, listening to people speak the same language you hear in the (home) office everyday…

Just across the border, Scotland awaits. Technically, I left my home country of England, but I thankfully didn't have to pay through my nose for the privilege of having a swab stuck up there. I made sure I incorporated many aspects of a vacation into this staycation though, so I truly feel like I’ve been ‘away’.

A beach in the Highlands (yes, really!)

I've previously staycationed in Edinburgh, Scotland, so although I'm currently doing my best J K Rowling impression and writing this piece in the Scottish capital – with a mention of the famed boy wizard thrown in for good measure – I'm offering a new angle to hero the Scottish Highlands aspects of this trip. Although this piece does feature a few Edinburgh anecdotes, for a more Edinburgh-based piece, you can click here.

So, here we go, here's how to really staycation like you're on a foreign vacation...

Tap into what ignites your holiday fire

Is it an adventurous escapade? An all-inclusive blissful break? For me, solo travel truly gives me that sense of travel and adventure – though usually I'm headed to medinas in Morocco or white-sand beaches in Cuba. A little less warm, but just as beautiful, an escape to the Highlands offers mountains, waterfalls and gorgeous scenery galore, just like Morocco; however, the choice of tipple is whisky instead of Cuba's rum. I joined a day tour, instead of my usual week-long group tour, and it was brilliant. It sounds silly to say, but apart from my trip to Loch Lomond where I actively sought out solitude to write, solo travelling isn’t usually a lonely experience. You meet people alllll the time. However, unlike pre-Covid, there was little to no mingling between groups on this tour, which made for a more solitary experience for solo travellers – something I also learned living in Sydney last year. Blaaaaady Covid.

A view from the tour bus

It's not all wandering around gorgeous places in your own world though. Yes, while solo travel usually meant making new friends, in the age of staycations, it might mean bumping into your existing ones instead! Back down in Edinburgh, it seemed as though everyone had the same England-to-Scotland idea as I met up with two friends and their travel companions; one to climb Arthur's Seat and another for a morning smoothie at Hula.

Top of Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh

Stick to your travel routine

My pre-travel routine always included grabbing a magazine and a few snacks from WHSmiths – though usually at an airport instead of a train station. I made sure I did the very same at Kings Cross.

Once in Scotland itself, another non-Highlands-and-actually-Edinburgh experience (don’t worry, I’m getting to Highlands content in the next paragraph!) was hopping aboard a sightseeing bus. I've lost count it how many of these I've done in various cities, but I find them so helpful in getting my bearings, travelling between the main tourist sights, and gaining some insight into the city's history and culture.

Lunch stop views in Mallaig

Downing an ice-cold lemonade is another act that just gives me the holiday feels. I ensured to keep up the tradition, accompanied by a fish and chips, in Mallaig, while overlooking the harbour. I also spent some time there overlooking the gorgeous loch, under the bright blue sky. You'd be forgiven for thinking we were in Switzerland there. Actually, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in Switzerland, or Iceland for that matter, anywhere in the Scottish Highlands! The White House, Glencoe (its actual postal address) gave me major Vik vibes.

The White House, Glencoe

Try the local food and drink

Food is such an important part of travel culture, and trying new dishes will really feel like you're away from home. While Scotland is still in the UK, there are some different culinary offerings you can get your teeth into, including black pudding, haggis, shortbread, single malt whisky, gin... In the town of Pitlochry, you'll find a sweet shop near the main public car park that serves multicoloured rainbow ice cream (I can hear the influencers flocking already!) and whiskey ice cream, made using real, local whiskey.

Pitlochry

Chat to people

Engaging with locals is another huge part of travel, and in the Highlands, there's no language barrier... well, not a huge one. Fun fact: once you reach the roads just outside Callander, Stirling, all the road signs are in both Gaelic and English. But yes, back to the main point; although the interaction between you and other travellers may be at a minimum during these Covid times, I've honestly never met more helpful staff, tour guides, waiters and waitresses! These service people are a wealth of knowledge. A stop at an Edinburgh gin shop led to a delicious dinner at Maki and Ramen, where I ate both maki and ramen. The sales attendant in the gin shop recommended it.

Back in the Highlands, I learned so much about the Scottish clans, English-Scottish history (FYI, Scone Palace and the stone of Scone is pronounced ‘Scoone’, offering a whole new dynamic to the scone/scone debate) and little local facts from the guide, such as the existence of request-only train stops. The guide also provided little language insights, for example, 'inver' means 'flowing into', i.e. Inverness means flowing into the Loch Ness.

The tour featured live commentary, punctuated with various Scottish music. My two favourites were listening to Skyfall, after venturing through the other-worldly landscape where James Bond stays with M towards the end of the eponymous film and, after seeing the famed Hogwarts Express viaduct, which is actually called Glenfinnan Viaduct, we listened to music composed for the Harry Potter films. It really felt like we were in a movie, travelling through those landscapes, listening to that music.

Jacobite steam train crossing Glenfinnan Viaduct

Final word

Right, so a big elephant in the room to conclude this piece: UK staycations and the weather. Now, of course, I would love to travel somewhere with guaranteed weather; however, Scotland showed UP on this trip. Not one drop of rain graced my head and it was mostly sunny throughout. Glencoe was notoriously a moody grey, but we got the benefit of seeing two rainbows without rain, so I'll take it. Overall, a fabulous trip, and I cannot wait to return!

Seeking serenity... and other things to do in Byron Bay, Australia

Peppered with palm trees, whitewashed wood-panelled shops and restaurants, and twinkling fairy lights come evening, Byron Bay is the ultimate beachside escape. It's easy to see why everyone raves about this place, and why a few celebrities have even made this place their home (shout out to my future husband, Zac Efron, and also one of the Hemsworth brothers) - I fell for its charms almost instantly.

Boasting a chilled, beachside town vibe, it's the kind of place where you would enjoy a proper bouji brunch, but barefaced of makeup and in flip flops. Amidst a plethora of long weekends (and big changes - one for another blog post coming soon), I booked a week away to Byron Bay, a 10-hour drive or 90-minute flight, up the coast from Sydney, near the Queensland/NSW border.

Thanks to its location, it enjoys warmer climes than Sydney and, although you'll likely feel relaxed the moment you step off the plane at Ballina Airport, or out of the car, here are a few tips to really capitalise on the feeling and achieve optimum zen.

Choose your base wisely

Due to booking, cancelling and rebooking of our accommodation (this COVID pandemic is synonymous with constant changes, hey), we ended up booking two different AirBnbs for our time in Byron. The first three nights were spent at Beachfront Apartments, mere metres from the Main Beach. The location was perfect: we could amble to the beach, to the Aldi for supplies, and our designated driver for the trip could enjoy as many drinks as she wanted as it was barely a 10-minute walk back to our apartment from most restaurants. One morning really epitomised our relaxation: I went for a morning run back and forth along the coast, followed by a cooked breakfast on the patio with a view of the sea, then went for a walk on the Main Beach "just to get my toes wet", and was treated to a show of a few dolphins playing in the water! Bliss.

Our second base was an absolutely gorgeous AirBnB, All About Byron, about 15 minutes' walk inland - I can't rave about this place enough. Adorned with bamboo shoots, Buddha statues and boasting our very own hot tub, I felt like I'd stepped into a Balinese retreat. Our host was brilliant too - easily and quickly contactable when needed. We spent many an hour in the hot tub, trying not to nap in the water when we weren't chatting or drinking (or stepping out for a smorgasbord of snacks) - it was so relaxing.

Relaxed yet fulfilling activities

While we graced the beach every day of our stay and didn't plan much, we made sure to still make the most of our time.

One of the few plans we did make was a 90-minute sunrise horse ride through the forest and onto the beach with Zephyr Horses. I hadn't ridden a horse since a child, and even then it was guided by a professional who walked the horse around. This time, I was in control; we were taught simple commands, and we were (thankfully) on horses used to carrying amateurs. The experience was absolutely incredible; I felt like a real cowgirl, more so when we got the horses to trot, and when we had to climb up and down steps with nothing but our balance and new skills to keep us on the horse. At one point, the sea was to my right, there was a rainbow to my left and mountains in front... it was magical.

Another activity that you can't miss in Byron is casting a look over the area from the lofty heights of the Cape Byron Lighthouse, which offers 360-degree vistas of the sea and mountains. You can either walk or drive up (parking is $4-$8) and spend time just soaking up the incredible views. We even saw dolphins and whales as we looked out to sea!

Although Main Beach was great, our favourite was just on the other side: Wategos Beach. Here, you have a full view of the mountains, you’re surrounded by picturesque green hills, and there are trees for respite from the sun. It is well worth the quest to find parking (and a hardy quest it is). The water is pretty shallow a fair bit out, so sit back (or stand in) and enjoy as the waves wash over. You might even see local wildlife - no, not whales, dolphins or horses again: the humble bush turkey! He/she came over to us, unbeknownst to us, until he clawed my housemate (eeek!) and then we watched him claw through peoples belongings until chased away.

We also ventured 20 minutes north of Byron Bay to the even more bohemian town of Brunswick Heads. We spent a few hours by the lovely lake surrounded by towering trees, where you can paddleboard or boat around, or make like us, and just chill on the side with a pastry from Bruns Bakery.

Eat really well

Now, I tell ya, this is something we truly mastered in Byron Bay. From our first evening dining on fancy fish and chips (sweet potato fries and Hoki) from the lauded Fishheads and desserts from the 24-hour bakery, Byron Bay Hot Bread, we sure as hell started as we meant to go on:

Three Blue Ducks - this rustic eatery sits on a farm - The Farm, actually - and serves delicious farm-to-plate fare. My flatmate had "the best green curry of [her] life" here, while my cocktail and platter went down pretty well too. After, be sure to have a stroll past the pigs, bees and other animals (and the gelato stall).

The Balcony - on a Sunday, The Balcony, a beautiful two-story, whitewashed wood number with, you guessed it, a balcony, holds Drag and Dine. The drag show comprises one act who does three or four sets, and this time around, a prize giveaway won by my flatmates (and then we promptly had my caption stolen by the restaurant's official Instagram!) My favourite part, however, was the food; in fact, it was one of my favourite meals of the trip. I had the softest trout, with the crispiest skin, on a bed of greens, drizzled with a delicious sesame-based sauce. Divine AND healthy. The cocktails were pretty good too.

Miss Margarita - speaking of cocktails, Miss Margarita had a brilliant list, playing host to my favourite fruit, like mango and watermelon, in martinis, mojitos and, of course, margaritas. The food was flavoursome, with a signature Mexican kick.

Bayleaf - a renowned cafe in Byron, we headed to Bayleaf for breakfast one morning. Their dishes are a tasty work of art, and even the humble scrambled eggs on toast looked so pretty, cooked into a swirly design. I even had an iced coffee! Who have I become?!

The General Store - another celebrated cafe in Byron. The team put emphasis on health, with ingredients like acai and coconut water taking pride of place on the menu frequently. I opted for a post-breakfast smoothie, which was as healthy and delicious as it was filling. What most intrigued me though was the way they announced your order was ready: "thanks, ‘Name’" each and every time. How very polite!

The Mez Club - a vision both in and out. Between the whitewashed exterior, curved archways, cushions and intricate lampshades, it felt like a cross between a Greek and Moroccan taverna. It's all about sharing plates here, and boy, was the food good. I tried oysters for the first time here (loved them), had THE softest lamb ever, delicious ravioli, gorgeous crisp potatoes, warm bread, and to follow, churros. The innovative cocktails are ones to savour too… though I’m not too sure about the one featuring avo.

I am so glad Byron Bay lived up to the hype; it was a place I wanted to visit since I first visited Sydney in 2018, well before I made it my home. I can’t wait to one day return with my mum - it is very much her vibe.