To say life has been hectic recently would be an understatement. Work, freelance, running a business, medical appointments, coordinating a surprise event... it's been a lot. Throw in the threat of a third world war, the constant flow of demoralising news day in, day out, and it's enough to make anyone want to curl up in a ball and just sleep for a week.
Often with my city breaks, I plan to pack in as much as possible, as not to miss a thing, but not this time. This trip to Budapest would be a well-earned break. However, down to the last few hours before travelling, the trip nearly didn’t happen; we ummed and ahhed about even going, given the devastating and scary situation in neighbouring Ukraine. However, after a lot of late-night research the night before, we decided to still board our flight early the next morning.
Pace things out
Usually, my city breaks are two to three days long. However, the addition of just one extra day made all the difference for Budapest. We were able to enjoy activities without watching the clock, often coming back to the hotel mid-afternoon for an hour or two to relax, before any evening activities. We had time to stroll and just take everything in. On the first day, we impromptu went to the Castle District where we could linger at lookouts, stroll the area and wall walk, and admire the ornate buildings at a slow pace. Perhaps in an unrelaxing turn, we headed ascended on foot, but we were sure to get the funicular back down the hillside. From above, the view over the Danube River and surrounding buildings were like something out of a postcard.
Seek out a spa
Is there anything more relaxing than a spa day? I think not. As we were staying for four days, we were able to dedicate a full day to visiting Szechenyi Baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe. Made up of 18 thermal baths, with temperatures varying from 28 to 38 degrees, Szechenyi is HUGE, situated in a gorgeous neoclassical yellow building. Outside, you’ll find two large baths and one swimming pool, and inside lie the 15 more (including a beer bath…) We were going to have a phone-free day, and marked out our route from the hotel on a map, but Covid passes were required for entry, so in the end, we took one phone. It is worth noting that the only two times we needed a Covid pass were to enter the country and to enter this spa. We opted for a private cabin each when we pre-booked our tickets. There are hundreds of them, each secured using a digital key on your wrist. They felt very safe to leave our belongings in and were great to freely get changed in with privacy; the alternative is the communal changing areas with lockers, like at a UK swimming pool.
Despite the nippy 12 degree temperatures, with the sun on our face and warm waters surrounding us, it felt truly like we were on holiday and all our cares washed away. For something a little more up-tempo, you can head into the middle of the left pool, which has a current running through it, whisking you around in a circle around a central bath. I attempted it in one of the slower settings - it was fun! Inside, the various baths feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to Ancient Rome, or the like, where you’ll relax under grand ornate ceilings. Frankly, we felt it had a Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. Specifically, a series of individual versions of the bathroom the trio brew polyjuice potion in, for any Harry Potter fans out there.
Eat, drink and be merry
Oh, how we ate on this trip; and eating feeds the soul and helps us feel content, right? We started with two breakfasts on the day of arrival - a humble croissant at the airport, followed by a sit-down, cooked breakfast at the grand Gerbeaud, a Parisian, old world-style eatery, established in 1858 - and continued on a similar path.
Hungarian food is quite meat-heavy, so as I was travelling with a vegetarian, we opted for more world foods, with Hungarian twists. One great dinner we had was at Osteria, a delicious Italian in Pest. I had a roasted duck, caramelised onion and chilli pizza, followed by a gorgeous chocolate pannacotta. There was also a creative selection of cocktails - I tried basil wine, but then went firmly back to rose margaritas - as well as a range of gin and tonics, including floral, local, and tropical options.
On another evening, we went for an Israeli-Mediterranean meze at Mazel Tov. With a 'bring the outdoors inside' style and live acoustic guitar music, the whole dining experience here was very relaxed. Yet again, we had two courses, eating the delicious dips, salads and pita, until our stomachs and hearts were full. Soothing live music seemed to be the theme of that evening, as we also stopped by Doblo wine bar on the way back to the hotel who, under their atmospheric lighting, had a live singer to accompany our nightcap.
Of course, you can't visit Budapest without checking out a ruin bar (or two). Housed in derelict buildings or unused spaces, these bright and bold bars offer refuge from the cold, good vibes and cheap drinks. The closest to our hotel was the well-known Szimpla Kert. The best way I can describe it is a series of bars next to each other with the fronts cut out and communal seating for all - think food market but indoors, without the food, and with live music. It is perfect for a casual few drinks (or for many drinks, if you’re on a stag or hen!)
Other spots we visited on our travels were the anglicised, but still lovely Cafe Brunch Budapest - situated opposite Central Market Hall, which we had intended to visit but it was closed - and brewery Mad House, where I tried a beer, gin and lemonade cocktail, and ate more duck.
Leisurely sightsee, instead of ‘go, go, go’
Anyone who either knows me personally or follows my travels knows I love a sightseeing bus. Yes, they're touristy, but they're oh so convenient and offer introductory knowledge to the city you're visiting. We opted for a 48-hour ticket in Budapest, which included a boat tour. It enabled us to see a lot of the city centre from both land and water with ease, learning about the buildings and their history, as we basked in the sun (and wind on the bus’ top deck...) The following day we did another loop of the bus just to pass the time, and enjoy the city in new weather: in the snow. We were lucky, as we stayed opposite the beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, so we were able to join the route with ease. Nothing seemed rushed or stressful, but we managed to pack in a lot.
Speaking of religious buildings, Budapest's St Stephen's Basilica is one of the most beautiful churches I've ever been in - a record previously held by Barcelona's Sagrada Familia. Fairly modern in the scheme of things, as it was completed in 1905, the gold, the frescos, and the grandness of it all were incredible. I personally find religious buildings soothing and peaceful, so it was another way to relax and take some time to reflect. Less peaceful though was the panoramic terrace at the top of the dome, which we accessed by a kind of precarious winding metal staircase (but got the lift down, thankfully); however, it was lovely to see the city from above again, similar to the way we started our trip in the Castle District.
Contradictory to our chilled-out vibes on the rest of our trip, we also visited the House of Terror, the museum that detailed the Soviet Union's rule after World War Two. The museum taught me a lot about a period I knew nothing about. Ironically, we stumbled across a support rally and concert for Ukraine after our spa visit the day before, which was run by this museum.
For the whole trip, we took things at a good pace, had a lot of respites, and my travel partner (my ex-flatmate) and I ensured we did things we both enjoyed. We found the city was great in the day, and even more lovely by night, all lit up - something my brother has specifically pointed out after his visit a few years ago. The Hungarian people were lovely too, from taxi drivers to waiters and waitresses. The thing that really made us smile was the drivers when we were pedestrians crossing the road. We’re not sure if it’s a rule there, but they always went out of their way to stop and let us cross. All in all, a thoroughly relaxing escape.