So, last year, we said hello to a slightly new logo; this year, we’re saying hello to a slightly new title format! In the last couple of years, my trips have become less “experience as much as possible”, and rather more rest, recuperation, and a little culture. As such, I don’t always have helpful “...and other things to do” when I visit. But that’s okay - in all honesty, reader, these blogs are just as much for ‘future me’ to reminisce as they are to inspire ‘current you’ to visit.
Portugal is one of those countries that have been on my 'must visit' list for the longest time. Friends, on learning I'd not yet been despite being Ms Travel, would always vehemently recommend a trip, which only further added to my desire to visit.
The choice of Faro was considered a unique one; many asked why I opted for here over the likes of Lisbon and Porto. Both are most definitely still on my list, but I simply thought lower down in the country, the warmer it'd be later in the year; we were visiting mid/late September. My friend (and former flatmate, with whom I've visited Singapore, Budapest, Copenhagen, and Brussels) and I were simply after good food, good wine, and a restful time.
The hotel
We knew we wanted to go for a 'boujie' hotel with a pool when booking our accommodation, but we didn't realise just how fancy we'd gone until we arrived at Pousada Palacio de Estoi (due to the fact we were sharing a room, and there was a deal, it was a rather favourable rate!) We were literally staying in a heritage museum. Mind. Blown. As the hotel themselves put it, it was 'where the legacy meets the luxury'. From the fountains to the Renaissance-style painted frescos, this was truly something to behold.
We were offered a glass of champagne or water upon arrival, and then shown around some of the grounds. The upper floor areas pretty much maintained its 18th-century roots as a holiday home to a nobleman, and then Viscount, while also exhibiting Roman artefacts that had been uncovered on the estate. It even had its own chapel. The downstairs was more contemporary, with modern art sculptures and the guest rooms.
Within 15 minutes of putting our bags down in our room, we went in the pool. It wasn't warm by any means, but cold water swimming is good for you, right?! We did a few lengths and widths to start our holiday. The hotel also had a much smaller heated indoor pool, which we popped our heads - and our bodies - into. When we weren't swimming, we were wrapped in robes reading poolside (hello, Jacqueline Wilson - thank you for taking me back to my childhood with your first adult novel, released just in time for this trip!)
On our first night and third night (which was our last night - it was just a long weekend trip), we dined at the hotel; the food was rich in flavour. Both the seabass and the pumpkin soup I had on the respective nights hit the spot.
Going into Faro
On the second day of our trip, we worked up the energy to venture into the centre of Faro, and not just stay at our remote hotel. A friend of mine who lives in Lisbon drove down to visit, and we spent the afternoon as a trio nattering, eating, and doing a little shopping at the local market. The seafood in Faro was absolutely delicious!
That evening, my former flatmate and I went on a food and wine tour that started in the Old Town, and stopped at various places in the main centre and along the harbour. Well, it was billed as a food and wine tour; however, I found out I was pregnant a few days before I set off on this trip, so it was just a food tour for me. Baby's first holiday, at 5 weeks in utero - definitely my child, eh!
As I learnt in Bilbao, food tours are a great way to spend an afternoon or evening: not only do you get to eat local delicacies at authentic restaurants and bars, but you get to learn an area's history, and meet new people. Our guide was enigmatic, and took us to four spots in the city, where we were able to try 10 different dishes. I learnt that tempura is actually Portuguese, and that they do it damn well. I had some of the juiciest prawns I'd had in a while, and even tried something called spiderfish...
Walking between the restaurants, we also learnt some Portuguese history, especially in relation to the Moorish people and the Brits. We also learnt that a couple we made friends with on the tour had paid to tour our hotel earlier in the day(!!!!). It was a lovely evening filled with good food, laughter, and even a few deep conversations with strangers.
Our Faro verdict
Our break to Faro was just what we needed: a restful break, with swimming, eating, and reading by the pool. I did feel a little bad that my nausea and exhaustion did make me a little slower than I normally am when travelling, but my friend was an ideal companion for the trip - and for most trips, which is why we have done many together - she was super supportive and understanding.
If you're not looking for a slow paced break, and want something more dynamic, Faro is a great jumping point to nearby towns and cities that offer a little more excitement, such as Portimao and other beach-side Algarve towns. I perhaps would only stay in Faro for life in the slow lane for a few days. Lisbon and Porto, you're in my sights now!