Going on a viral mystery holiday... and other things to do in Bilbao, Basque Country

Picture this: I rocked up to Gatwick Airport, a carry on suitcase and a colleague in tow, with absolutely no idea where I was going. Yep, this is exactly how my trip to Bilbao started.

My visit to Bilbao was part of a work trip for Secret London and Journee, where myself and my colleague were sent on a mystery holiday. Journee plan and book your flights, hotel, and most activities, and you only find out where you’re going and what you’re doing once you’re at the airport! Read my review of Journee, how they work, and our review of their whole offering in my dedicated article here and watch the reel here.

So, to avoid making an SEO cardinal sin, and duplicating content, this blog post is going to be solely about Bilbao, in the same vein as my other Twenties In Transit city guides. However, I’ve gotta start by saying, I HIGHLY rate Journee, I would go on another Journee trip in a heartbeat, and if you’re on the fence about booking a mystery trip with them, JUST DO IT.

The food

Despite many trips to Spain since childhood, I didn’t know much about Bilbao or the Basque Country before my visit - apart from the fact that it’s known for its food. My goodness, it is a foodie’s paradise. The area has a high concentration of Michelin-starred spots, and in general, food is very well priced. I ate pintxos every single day, and my fave Spanish omelette twice a day, throughout the trip.

On our first evening, we went to Cafe Bar Bilbao in the palm-lined Plaza Nueva for dinner, opting for a selection of pintxos instead of a main meal. Everything tasted fresh, and had fantastic flavour. The tomato sauce on the mussels were divine, while the calamari was seasoned so well. The bread, topped with fresh tomatoes and salty anchovies were chef’s kiss.

My favourite activity of the trip was one of the ones organised by Journee: a pintxos and wine walking tour. We learnt so much about pintxos and its place in Basque culture, how it differs from tapas, and of course, enjoyed some amazing food and wine. Each pintxos we ate was a work of art, and packed lots of flavour and more ingredients compared to the area’s main meals. I tried things I wouldn’t have tried if I was simply dining out on my own (e.g. the olive oil collagen on cod and bread; it looked like my nemesis cheese, but was so delicious). My favourite pintxos of the night was in the last bar: shredded duck cooked in a peanut sauce, topped with a caramelised apple. All the wines we tried were excellent too.

The tour was a small group one, and our group gelled well. We all had a laugh as we learnt (and failed to execute) the special pour of the Isastegi Sagardo Naturala cider, and went on to get dessert at the ice cream shop Gelati Gelati with its numerous flavours (I’m talking doughnut flavour to mojito flavour). It was on this tour that I discovered my new favourite drink, a kalimotxo, which is a mix of red wine and coke. Our British brains may say it shouldn’t work, but it really does; it lightens the taste of both drinks, to make a refreshing mix.

The culture

On the food tour, we learnt a lot about the Basque Country’s history - as we walked from place to place, we made some stops where the guide pointed out important structures, and we got a bit of a history lesson in one bar too. It was so interesting; as always, I realise how little we learnt about certain histories at school…

On a separate tour, we headed to Guernica, which was bombed in 1937. It was a sobering visit, learning about what happened on that fateful day, and seeing how the city was rebuilt. We also learnt about the conflict with Picasso’s painting, which our guide advised was bestowed to the Basque people, and still hasn’t been returned to Basque Country (it now currently resides in Madrid).

We got to see the old Guernica tree, which is in a mausoleum, and the new one, which to this day is ceremoniously used for new parliaments and marks the place where important matters are decided.

The sites & surroundings

I know I said I wouldn’t go too much into the Journee aspect of the trip, so that you check out my dedicated Secret London review and the reel on Secret London’s IG, but I have to shout out the incredibly detailed guidebook and itinerary the Journee team created. It had everything from how to get to the airport to advice on local tipping culture, plus listed local sites to visit. The whole city is very walkable - I averaged at 20k steps per day because we saw so much!

One of the main sites of Bilbao that most people know is the Guggenheim Museum. Modern art isn’t particularly my thing (though making up stories about what each piece represents is); however, the museum itself is a particularly striking, cool building. I also loved the Puppy statue outside, and loved the face there were birds living inside the flowers of the big dog. Contrary to this, I did not love the Maman statue… horrid thing. Elsewhere in the city, we visited the Doña Casilda Park, with its beautiful fountains, and headed up above the city via the Funicular for fantastic views of the terracotta rooves and lush green mountains. I loved that the repetitive Bilbao sign formed a gate… and a great photo op.

Although I’ve never watched Game of Thrones, I did visit Gaztelugatxe (Dragonstone aka home to my fave Emelia Clarke). BOY, that was a hard climb. However, the camaraderie of the rest of the group on the tour kept me going, and it was a beautiful view from the top. I also loved how it looked with the staircase winding up the island’s cliff face too. The guide made sure we understood the importance of respecting the nature in the areas surrounding Gaztelugatxe too.

In conclusion, it was a fantastic trip. If Journee hadn’t matched me with Bilbao, I would have probably overlooked the destination, and that would have been a big mistake! We had good weather on most days, but even the thunderstorm on our last evening (and the resulting dash back to the hotel in flip flops) didn’t dampen our love for the city. Once again, I highly recommend Journee, but also a visit to Bilbao.

An ode to Spanish dining culture... And everything I ate in Málaga, Spain

So, last year, we said hello to a slightly new logo; this year, we’re saying hello to a slightly new title format! In the last couple of years, my trips have become less “experience as much as possible”, and rather more rest, recuperation, and a little culture. As such, I don’t always have helpful “...and other things to do” when I visit. But that’s okay - in all honesty, reader, these blogs are just as much for ‘future me’ to reminisce as they are to inspire ‘current you’ to visit.   

This was my first trip to Málaga in 23 years - though I flew in and out of the airport for a wedding last May - and I was looking forward to making more memories in the Andalusian city. We stayed about half an hour south of the airport, in Fuengirola, and intended it to be a low key break away from daily responsibilities - and that's exactly what it was. Owing to the time of year, the weather was a little hit and miss, with a mix of sun, downpours, and grey skies, so we basically ate and drank our way through the town. Here's (nearly) everything I ate on my visit. 

Breakfast

One of my favourite things to do on holiday is eat breakfast alfresco, ideally under a palm tree, or with a few nearby. We went to the same spot, Heladería Morango, each morning. Despite primarily being an ice cream shop, their ‘regular’ menu was fab, and everything tasted so fresh. I could have drunk that orange juice by the litre, and their tomato, avocado, olive oil, and ham open sandwich was so moreish. Even their Full English made an impression.

Pre- or post-breakfast each day, we made sure to stretch our legs with a good walk; then another in the afternoon, and evening too. Whether just strolling the boulevard, dipping our toes in the FREEZING sea water, or heading onto the stone-made pier, the views were brilliant. Good food, good views; what more could I ask for?

Home cooking 

As we stayed with family, we benefited from some lovely home cooked meals - the best was the serving of incredibly big, juicy, sweet prawns, which were bought by the kilo! I could have eaten them for hours on end. It really showed what a scam our "jumbo king prawns" are in the UK... 

Every afternoon, rain or shine, we passed some time on the balcony, accompanied by fresh bread, a charcuterie board, and olive oil and balsamic. Simple, delicious. While I do this at home, enjoying it overlooking the sea brought a whole new dimension.

Dining out 

From a delightful Spanish omelette (a nostalgic tapas of my childhood) at an inconspicuous marina cafe-bar to a saucy arroz caldoso at a restaurant overlooking the sea, we ate a fair few meals out. I couldn't fault a thing.

One meal was shared with my partner and two colleagues at Restaurante La Viborilla. I work for a Spanish-owned company, and have been meaning to meet one of the colleagues for months; it just so happened we were all holidaying in the same area at the same time. After outlining likes and dislikes, I had absolute joy in having my food ordered by my Spanish counterparts to ensure we tried a range of dishes specifically from the region. We had coquinas (reminiscent of tiny mussels you could snack on like sunflower seeds); boquerones al limón (fried anchovies - so moreish); gambas al ajillo; and arroz caldoso. The latter was billed to us Brits as a 'winter paella' - it was gorgeous, like a soupy, seafood paella. The setting for all this food was beautiful; we overlooked the sea from a balcony in the cliff, the blue water hitting the shoreline below. 

Back along Los Boliches beachfront, we visited Restaurante Videra. Warm fresh bread dipped in the garlicy, herby olive oil of the gambas al pil-pil was a nice start, while the seabass was the star of the show. It was cooked on an outdoor grill, and the seasoning was top tier. Soft fish, lightly crisped skin... Mmm mmm mmm. I finished with the sweetest chocolate fondant I'd had in a while. Much like all meals we ate on this trip, everything was flavourful, and sooooo well priced. Back at home in the UK, you’d be paying triple for, in some cases, half the quality.

Sangria 

Sangria gets its own section. I feel I am leaving Spain with half my red blood cells actually being red wine. I love sangria, and while I do recreate it at home on occasion, I can't beat enjoying it overlooking the sea from various locations along the Costa Del Sol. From the €1.75 supermarket bottle to different restaurants' cocktail mix, each tasted unique, but all gave me holiday vibes. My only regret of the trip is that I didn't try the tinto de verano as recommended by my friend/colleague as the local preference for wine-based drink. I'll be back though!

All in all, this was solely a three-day escape to eat my body weight in bread and seafood. And you know what? Spanish food speaks to the heart. With all the walking, and the good quality, fresh food, it was healthy indulgence. Where to next for my next food escape?

Admiring amazing architecture... and other things to do in Seville, Spain

From the moment you enter many of Seville's hotels, with their imposing wooden doors that lead to a pretty internal courtyard or thoroughfare before you even reach the main door, the city's beauty is inescapable. Wander the streets for only a few moments, and you're pretty likely to stumble across (maybe literally - hello, cobblestones) sweeping arches, intricate architecture and bold colours, shaded by pretty palm and orange trees. One of the most beautiful cities I've been to for sure, with striking elements reminiscent of Cuba and Morocco. The architecture is predominantly Moorish and Gothic, with a strong Christian and Islamic influences, so those similarities make a lot of sense.

Royal Alcazar

If you've got a long weekend upcoming, or just want a little mini-break, Seville is the one. We spent just two full days in the city, and got loads done - everything is within an easy walking distance of one another, especially if you stay near the centre; in fact, the only transport you need is an airport transfer (we used Welcome Pick Ups; their drivers were so friendly and very punctual). We stayed at El Escondite de Maria (its decor, service and location was unbeatable), near the Metropol Parasol, and the furthest out we walked to a landmark was 40 minutes. So, grab your flight and hotel, and tick these beauties off your list: 

Cathedrals

Of course, a visit to the city's eponymous cathedral is essential. UNESCO-listed Seville Cathedral is like a signpost when walking in the city; we passed it countless times in our 48 hours. Upon arrival to the first landmark of our visit, we queued, drinking in its beautiful, intricate exterior while we waited. Once inside, it was just as impressive - so huge and beautiful with impressive pillars, and ceiling architecture. It is also home to the Giralda Tower, which boasts fantastic views of the city. Unfortunately, the tower, and roof tour, was sold out in English by the time we arrived (midday) and you can't do it without a guide, so it's best to buy tickets beforehand.

Area outside the cathedral

Along one side of the cathedral is the Patio de las Naranjas, which is a beautiful area lined with the city's famous orange trees, fruitful even in November. We tried some vino de naranja - orange wine - at a tapas bar-restaurant called La Moderna, a four-minute walk from this area. Boyyyyy, was it sweet! The portion sizes of the tapas at this spot were generous, especially the patatas bravas and seafood, and so tasty.

Your cathedral ticket also affords you a free trip to Iglesia del Salvador - do NOT skip this one. Formally a mosque, now a church, personally, I thought it was more gorgeous than Seville Cathedral. A bright pink exterior leads to the most breathtaking gold, intricate pieces of artwork and sculptures on the inside, stretching high up into the fantastic frescoed ceilings. Maybe it was just because of the time of day we visited, but the light streams through the stained glass, showering rainbows all over the place - I was awestruck.

Palaces

The Royal Alcazar, the oldest used palace in Europe, built in the 14th century, is one of the city’s main attractions. It's opposite the cathedral and this is one I definitely recommend pre-booking as the queues can be long, however, sooo worth it. Get ready to get lost amidst sprawling gardens, with landscaped, maze-style bushes, palm trees and fountains, fantastic bold colours in the walls and stone, intricate ceramics and mosaics, breathtaking artwork, stunning frescos, and so much more. My Morocco comparison is even more valid here, as there was an area literally the spitting image of my hotel in Chefchaouen.

Now, not really a palace but I've put it under this category because, MY GOD, it deserves it: Plaza de España was like being in another world. It’s like a little Venice, with pretty bridges and boats sailing down the water, mixed with Montmartre-Paris vibes, thanks to the pretty streetlights, each adorned with unique ceramic tiles, and, also, classically Spanish with live music and outdoor flamenco shows peppering the area - an elite take on our street performers, if you will. It was my favourite spot in the whole city.

Modern structures

While Seville is steeped in historical architecture, there are more modern gems, too, namely the Metropol Parasol. The highest wooden structure in the world, it is also a sight to behold from street level. However, its criss-cross design truly unveils itself when you get to the top: it’s like a mini-city of intertwining walkways, with stunning city views to boot. After you're done wandering this marvel and getting selfies galore, treat yourself to sangria and tapas (we went for Spanish omelette, and started what ended up being an intense nine-egg day for us both) - both were delicious here, and served with a side of cool rooftop views.

Other buildings

Some buildings here aren't about what they look like - though a stroll through the colourful Santa Cruz area (Jewish Quarter) by the cathedral and Alcazar defo is - it's what you can do inside them: eat and drink! On our first night, we went to a traditional local tapas bar, Los Coloniales, where we ate like the locals - standing and eating, and chatting at the bar, like we may have a pint in an English pub. It was so fast-paced, and we were surrounded by Spanish speakers. We learned you don't need to form an orderly queue and press your stomach or chest against the bar to get served either, which is great.

Another dining spot we visited was Taberna La Subasta, where we dined alfresco in the middle of November, thanks to the heaters; there's just something about eating outside that reinforces holiday vibes, amiright? The paella here was so tasty, and the sangria more so. However, the most lethal sangria of the lot was the one we had at The Second Room - there were at least four different types of alcohol along with the fruit and wine, including Cointreau and vodka. Also, if you get the time, check out El Rinconillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville. However, it's best to go in the day and it is teeming with people come evening.

Have you stayed longer in Seville? What other recommendations do you have?

How to 'express sight-see'... and other things to do in Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona is a city that ticks ALL my travelling boxes: tasty food, sea, beautiful buildings and mountains. You'd think this would be somewhere I would spend a week or two, but alas, financial obligations and annual leave allowance made it not so.

Thankfully, Barcelona is one of those cities you can hit up in a long weekend and still not miss out, if you're smart about your planning. Think of it as the capsule wardrobe of city breaks: so many combinations, but you can pretty much wear it all out in record time. Just make sure you hit these three pillars:

Food

Spanish food is one of my favourite cuisines and my trip to Barca did not disappoint. Over the course of three nights, we ate muchas tapas, drank muchas sangria and seafood was pretty much a staple at each meal. Weirdly though, the best patatas bravas came from an American diner in the town centre, rather than one of the many tapas bars. My personal fave was Spanish omelette with some sort of chorizo dish on the side, but the squid was ex-squid-site (heh heh) and I ordered calamari with most meals. 

On one of our afternoons, we trekked up Tibidabo and ate at a restaurant that overlooked the whole city. The view was AMAZING; you could see Montjuic, the sea, Sagrada Familia, and even the planes coming in and out of the airport... Although the Jardins del Turo del Putxet had great views of the city, too, this restaurant visit just pipped it!

Back firmly on street level, we went exploring one night and ended up in a mojito bar called Mamaine. Each mojito came with unlimited salted popcorn (win for me, obvs, but I know what they were trying to do) and cute, relevant snacks to your cocktail. An example was a cookie mojito, which came with an actual cookie!

Inside Sagrada Familia

Beach

There's not much to say here, really, but as a seaside lover (hey, I'm a Londoner, and the Thames is no picturesque lake), it's definitely worth taking a trip to the beach. It was a first for me heading to the beach in a jumper, let alone in February, but thankfully, it wasn't cold at all. In fact, it was so mild, I had an ice cream. I even went sans tights at one point; not something you could ever do within the first six weeks of the year in England.

Sights and culture

Now for the main pillar.. and the longest, sorry! I promise the below is more than doable in two, or three, days!

Gaudi pretty much runs this town, amiright? His presence is felt throughout the city, despite having died a tram-related death almost 100 years ago. Most buildings feature his original designs, or are inspired by his work and, of course, the head honcho is the vast Sagrada Familia, which he not only designed, but is his final resting place, too. Despite still not being finished (Gaudi once quipped "my client [God] has all the time in the world"), the intricate architecture on the outside is astonishing and, inside, it is hands down the most beautiful church I have set foot in. 

Aside from the Sagrada Familia and those in Park Güell - which was quite close to our hotel, and lovely to walk around, even without entering the famous rooftop section - there are many beautiful buildings to admire when walking around the town. Some transpire to be simple shops, while others are just as magnificent wonders on the inside. Funnily enough, the city is also littered with weird and wonderful sculptures, which we noticed while on a bus tour (as you know, I love a sightseeing bus #busw*nker a la The Inbetweeners). It's worth checking out the smaller churches in the city too, as they are just as beautiful as city's crowning glory.

For good food and drink, walk down the famous La Rambla boulevard. It's popular with many tourists and locals, so keep an eye on your bag, don't buy the knock offs from the street vendors and maybe pop into the La Bogueria market hailed as one of the best food markets in DA WORLD. The smells are great, but unless you're in a B&B and can cook said delights, you'll leave sad and hungry. That's probably why there are so many food places so close by... they know what you want.

Another notable sight is the city's Arc de Triomf (personally, I prefer it to France's - the deep red and bulbous tips give it a kind of exotic, Mediterranean vibe). It's a little out of the way compared to the others. but just hop on Barcelona's tube service and you'll be there in no time. Explore Ciutadella Park and its grand fountain, or stop for sangria at a nearby bar to really make the trip worthwhile.

Gaudi-designed buildings

On the final night, we attended a Flamenco show. I have dabbled in learning the dance at various stages of my life, but my little toe-heel tap had nothing on these dancers. The fact that some of the guy's sweat *may* have entered the audience arena after a particularly vigorous spin speaks volumes as to how they were really going for it. The guitar playing was great, and it was an all-round, authentic, feel good evening.