Nights at the museum... And other things I liked about Faro, Portugal

So, last year, we said hello to a slightly new logo; this year, we’re saying hello to a slightly new title format! In the last couple of years, my trips have become less “experience as much as possible”, and rather more rest, recuperation, and a little culture. As such, I don’t always have helpful “...and other things to do” when I visit. But that’s okay - in all honesty, reader, these blogs are just as much for ‘future me’ to reminisce as they are to inspire ‘current you’ to visit.   

Portugal is one of those countries that have been on my 'must visit' list for the longest time. Friends, on learning I'd not yet been despite being Ms Travel, would always vehemently recommend a trip, which only further added to my desire to visit.

The choice of Faro was considered a unique one; many asked why I opted for here over the likes of Lisbon and Porto. Both are most definitely still on my list, but I simply thought lower down in the country, the warmer it'd be later in the year; we were visiting mid/late September. My friend (and former flatmate, with whom I've visited Singapore, Budapest, Copenhagen, and Brussels) and I were simply after good food, good wine, and a restful time.

The hotel 

We knew we wanted to go for a 'boujie' hotel with a pool when booking our accommodation, but we didn't realise just how fancy we'd gone until we arrived at Pousada Palacio de Estoi (due to the fact we were sharing a room, and there was a deal, it was a rather favourable rate!) We were literally staying in a heritage museum. Mind. Blown. As the hotel themselves put it, it was 'where the legacy meets the luxury'. From the fountains to the Renaissance-style painted frescos, this was truly something to behold.

We were offered a glass of champagne or water upon arrival, and then shown around some of the grounds. The upper floor areas pretty much maintained its 18th-century roots as a holiday home to a nobleman, and then Viscount, while also exhibiting Roman artefacts that had been uncovered on the estate. It even had its own chapel. The downstairs was more contemporary, with modern art sculptures and the guest rooms. 

Within 15 minutes of putting our bags down in our room, we went in the pool. It wasn't warm by any means, but cold water swimming is good for you, right?! We did a few lengths and widths to start our holiday. The hotel also had a much smaller heated indoor pool, which we popped our heads - and our bodies - into. When we weren't swimming, we were wrapped in robes reading poolside (hello, Jacqueline Wilson - thank you for taking me back to my childhood with your first adult novel, released just in time for this trip!)

On our first night and third night (which was our last night - it was just a long weekend trip), we dined at the hotel; the food was rich in flavour. Both the seabass and the pumpkin soup I had on the respective nights hit the spot. 

Going into Faro 

On the second day of our trip, we worked up the energy to venture into the centre of Faro, and not just stay at our remote hotel. A friend of mine who lives in Lisbon drove down to visit, and we spent the afternoon as a trio nattering, eating, and doing a little shopping at the local market. The seafood in Faro was absolutely delicious! 

That evening, my former flatmate and I went on a food and wine tour that started in the Old Town, and stopped at various places in the main centre and along the harbour. Well, it was billed as a food and wine tour; however, I found out I was pregnant a few days before I set off on this trip, so it was just a food tour for me. Baby's first holiday, at 5 weeks in utero - definitely my child, eh!

As I learnt in Bilbao, food tours are a great way to spend an afternoon or evening: not only do you get to eat local delicacies at authentic restaurants and bars, but you get to learn an area's history, and meet new people. Our guide was enigmatic, and took us to four spots in the city, where we were able to try 10 different dishes. I learnt that tempura is actually Portuguese, and that they do it damn well. I had some of the juiciest prawns I'd had in a while, and even tried something called spiderfish... 

Walking between the restaurants, we also learnt some Portuguese history, especially in relation to the Moorish people and the Brits. We also learnt that a couple we made friends with on the tour had paid to tour our hotel earlier in the day(!!!!). It was a lovely evening filled with good food, laughter, and even a few deep conversations with strangers. 

Our Faro verdict

Our break to Faro was just what we needed: a restful break, with swimming, eating, and reading by the pool. I did feel a little bad that my nausea and exhaustion did make me a little slower than I normally am when travelling, but my friend was an ideal companion for the trip - and for most trips, which is why we have done many together - she was super supportive and understanding. 

If you're not looking for a slow paced break, and want something more dynamic, Faro is a great jumping point to nearby towns and cities that offer a little more excitement, such as Portimao and other beach-side Algarve towns. I perhaps would only stay in Faro for life in the slow lane for a few days. Lisbon and Porto, you're in my sights now! 

Going on a viral mystery holiday... and other things to do in Bilbao, Basque Country

Picture this: I rocked up to Gatwick Airport, a carry on suitcase and a colleague in tow, with absolutely no idea where I was going. Yep, this is exactly how my trip to Bilbao started.

My visit to Bilbao was part of a work trip for Secret London and Journee, where myself and my colleague were sent on a mystery holiday. Journee plan and book your flights, hotel, and most activities, and you only find out where you’re going and what you’re doing once you’re at the airport! Read my review of Journee, how they work, and our review of their whole offering in my dedicated article here and watch the reel here.

So, to avoid making an SEO cardinal sin, and duplicating content, this blog post is going to be solely about Bilbao, in the same vein as my other Twenties In Transit city guides. However, I’ve gotta start by saying, I HIGHLY rate Journee, I would go on another Journee trip in a heartbeat, and if you’re on the fence about booking a mystery trip with them, JUST DO IT.

The food

Despite many trips to Spain since childhood, I didn’t know much about Bilbao or the Basque Country before my visit - apart from the fact that it’s known for its food. My goodness, it is a foodie’s paradise. The area has a high concentration of Michelin-starred spots, and in general, food is very well priced. I ate pintxos every single day, and my fave Spanish omelette twice a day, throughout the trip.

On our first evening, we went to Cafe Bar Bilbao in the palm-lined Plaza Nueva for dinner, opting for a selection of pintxos instead of a main meal. Everything tasted fresh, and had fantastic flavour. The tomato sauce on the mussels were divine, while the calamari was seasoned so well. The bread, topped with fresh tomatoes and salty anchovies were chef’s kiss.

My favourite activity of the trip was one of the ones organised by Journee: a pintxos and wine walking tour. We learnt so much about pintxos and its place in Basque culture, how it differs from tapas, and of course, enjoyed some amazing food and wine. Each pintxos we ate was a work of art, and packed lots of flavour and more ingredients compared to the area’s main meals. I tried things I wouldn’t have tried if I was simply dining out on my own (e.g. the olive oil collagen on cod and bread; it looked like my nemesis cheese, but was so delicious). My favourite pintxos of the night was in the last bar: shredded duck cooked in a peanut sauce, topped with a caramelised apple. All the wines we tried were excellent too.

The tour was a small group one, and our group gelled well. We all had a laugh as we learnt (and failed to execute) the special pour of the Isastegi Sagardo Naturala cider, and went on to get dessert at the ice cream shop Gelati Gelati with its numerous flavours (I’m talking doughnut flavour to mojito flavour). It was on this tour that I discovered my new favourite drink, a kalimotxo, which is a mix of red wine and coke. Our British brains may say it shouldn’t work, but it really does; it lightens the taste of both drinks, to make a refreshing mix.

The culture

On the food tour, we learnt a lot about the Basque Country’s history - as we walked from place to place, we made some stops where the guide pointed out important structures, and we got a bit of a history lesson in one bar too. It was so interesting; as always, I realise how little we learnt about certain histories at school…

On a separate tour, we headed to Guernica, which was bombed in 1937. It was a sobering visit, learning about what happened on that fateful day, and seeing how the city was rebuilt. We also learnt about the conflict with Picasso’s painting, which our guide advised was bestowed to the Basque people, and still hasn’t been returned to Basque Country (it now currently resides in Madrid).

We got to see the old Guernica tree, which is in a mausoleum, and the new one, which to this day is ceremoniously used for new parliaments and marks the place where important matters are decided.

The sites & surroundings

I know I said I wouldn’t go too much into the Journee aspect of the trip, so that you check out my dedicated Secret London review and the reel on Secret London’s IG, but I have to shout out the incredibly detailed guidebook and itinerary the Journee team created. It had everything from how to get to the airport to advice on local tipping culture, plus listed local sites to visit. The whole city is very walkable - I averaged at 20k steps per day because we saw so much!

One of the main sites of Bilbao that most people know is the Guggenheim Museum. Modern art isn’t particularly my thing (though making up stories about what each piece represents is); however, the museum itself is a particularly striking, cool building. I also loved the Puppy statue outside, and loved the face there were birds living inside the flowers of the big dog. Contrary to this, I did not love the Maman statue… horrid thing. Elsewhere in the city, we visited the Doña Casilda Park, with its beautiful fountains, and headed up above the city via the Funicular for fantastic views of the terracotta rooves and lush green mountains. I loved that the repetitive Bilbao sign formed a gate… and a great photo op.

Although I’ve never watched Game of Thrones, I did visit Gaztelugatxe (Dragonstone aka home to my fave Emelia Clarke). BOY, that was a hard climb. However, the camaraderie of the rest of the group on the tour kept me going, and it was a beautiful view from the top. I also loved how it looked with the staircase winding up the island’s cliff face too. The guide made sure we understood the importance of respecting the nature in the areas surrounding Gaztelugatxe too.

In conclusion, it was a fantastic trip. If Journee hadn’t matched me with Bilbao, I would have probably overlooked the destination, and that would have been a big mistake! We had good weather on most days, but even the thunderstorm on our last evening (and the resulting dash back to the hotel in flip flops) didn’t dampen our love for the city. Once again, I highly recommend Journee, but also a visit to Bilbao.

Why shoulder season getaways are best… and other things I loved in Larnaca, Cyprus

People often ask how I'm able to go on holiday so frequently. Now, yes, rigorous saving and monthly budget planning plays a HUGE part (as well as putting off ‘doing the bathroom’ for the last three years lol), but when I travel is a big factor too. Shoulder season - the very start or very end of recommended visiting times - are when I prefer to travel. And as this varies from country to country, it means I can travel for cheaper at different times of the year. 

Upon my return from Cape Verde, I knew I needed something to look forward to before sinking in my teeth to the next few months of work, and my family spoke highly of Cyprus after their visit last year. After my wonderful trip to Greece in 2022, I was keen to visit their territory on this island. And what better way to get a good break without breaking the bank? A visit in shoulder season! Here are three reasons why I loved this trip.

The weather 

Travelling in shoulder season is notoriously risky for good weather, but you know what? It's always paid off for me! We were very lucky with Cyprus: a perfect holiday temperature of 28-30 degrees for the first three days, then a cooler, still pleasant, 24 degrees on the last day. The following week was billed to be a much milder 20-24 degrees throughout, so I definitely chose the right week. 

The length of your break (and the cost)

Obviously, the longer the break, the more cash that'll leave your bank account, but during shoulder season you'll get more for your money - the cost of a two-night break during the height of summer can be the equivalent to a four- or even five-night stay much earlier or later in the season.

To minimise my costs even further, I opted for just three full days in Cyprus - though the late flight back on the fourth day was a nice bonus. While I've done city breaks for as little as 24 hours, this was my first time doing a short beach break outside of the UK. It was just what the doctor ordered.

Despite fully embracing the total bliss of this mini-beach break, I do slightly regret not going on at least one excursion or venturing properly into the town; I missed out on truly getting a feel for the culture and lifestyle of Cyprus. On our coastal coach ride back to the airport, we passed attractions I'd have loved to visit - like the Magic Dancing Water Show and the Sculpture Park - and while I did get a decent look at the latter, it'd have been cool to stroll through (and take selfies with the sculptures!) 

The busy-ness 

I said this in my last post, but for the past year or so I've been holidaying differently. It wasn't a conscious choice - perhaps a switch just clicked in me as I turned 30, living my best life, lazing on a raft in Jamaica - but where I prioritised seeing as much as I could wherever I visited for the past 12 years, I now value to taking it much slower. Seeing some of the area, and relaxing plenty. The adventurer in me is sure as hell still there, but I do it in a different way now - organised excursions mostly - and on longer trips.

As this was a mini-break, I spent most of my time at the pool or beach, sunbathing, reading, and swimming. Having only learnt to swim last year, this was my first time swimming in the open sea (the Cape Verde sea was too rough), which was an absolutely amazing experience. While the sun was hot, both the sea and pool at my hotel were cold, but once submerged, I adapted quickly and it was pretty refreshing. Cold water plunges are meant to be good for you, right? 

On our first night, we ventured to the notorious Ayia Napa. Now, we were definitely 10-15 years older than the majority of people there, but you know what? I had a good time. The music was decent and the drinks cheap, plus as we learned from our cabbie, the season had literally just started at the beginning of the week, so the bars weren't crazy packed. I didn't love the constant badgering by the reps trying to get you into their clubs though - leave me be! 

I will definitely be returning to Cyprus for a longer trip in future to see more of the island, and experience the culture outside of the hotel. We just missed experiencing Orthodox Easter by a few hours, but it was very cool to see the decorations going up both at the hotel, in shop/restaurant windows, and even on the roundabouts in the street.

An ode to Spanish dining culture... And everything I ate in Málaga, Spain

So, last year, we said hello to a slightly new logo; this year, we’re saying hello to a slightly new title format! In the last couple of years, my trips have become less “experience as much as possible”, and rather more rest, recuperation, and a little culture. As such, I don’t always have helpful “...and other things to do” when I visit. But that’s okay - in all honesty, reader, these blogs are just as much for ‘future me’ to reminisce as they are to inspire ‘current you’ to visit.   

This was my first trip to Málaga in 23 years - though I flew in and out of the airport for a wedding last May - and I was looking forward to making more memories in the Andalusian city. We stayed about half an hour south of the airport, in Fuengirola, and intended it to be a low key break away from daily responsibilities - and that's exactly what it was. Owing to the time of year, the weather was a little hit and miss, with a mix of sun, downpours, and grey skies, so we basically ate and drank our way through the town. Here's (nearly) everything I ate on my visit. 

Breakfast

One of my favourite things to do on holiday is eat breakfast alfresco, ideally under a palm tree, or with a few nearby. We went to the same spot, Heladería Morango, each morning. Despite primarily being an ice cream shop, their ‘regular’ menu was fab, and everything tasted so fresh. I could have drunk that orange juice by the litre, and their tomato, avocado, olive oil, and ham open sandwich was so moreish. Even their Full English made an impression.

Pre- or post-breakfast each day, we made sure to stretch our legs with a good walk; then another in the afternoon, and evening too. Whether just strolling the boulevard, dipping our toes in the FREEZING sea water, or heading onto the stone-made pier, the views were brilliant. Good food, good views; what more could I ask for?

Home cooking 

As we stayed with family, we benefited from some lovely home cooked meals - the best was the serving of incredibly big, juicy, sweet prawns, which were bought by the kilo! I could have eaten them for hours on end. It really showed what a scam our "jumbo king prawns" are in the UK... 

Every afternoon, rain or shine, we passed some time on the balcony, accompanied by fresh bread, a charcuterie board, and olive oil and balsamic. Simple, delicious. While I do this at home, enjoying it overlooking the sea brought a whole new dimension.

Dining out 

From a delightful Spanish omelette (a nostalgic tapas of my childhood) at an inconspicuous marina cafe-bar to a saucy arroz caldoso at a restaurant overlooking the sea, we ate a fair few meals out. I couldn't fault a thing.

One meal was shared with my partner and two colleagues at Restaurante La Viborilla. I work for a Spanish-owned company, and have been meaning to meet one of the colleagues for months; it just so happened we were all holidaying in the same area at the same time. After outlining likes and dislikes, I had absolute joy in having my food ordered by my Spanish counterparts to ensure we tried a range of dishes specifically from the region. We had coquinas (reminiscent of tiny mussels you could snack on like sunflower seeds); boquerones al limón (fried anchovies - so moreish); gambas al ajillo; and arroz caldoso. The latter was billed to us Brits as a 'winter paella' - it was gorgeous, like a soupy, seafood paella. The setting for all this food was beautiful; we overlooked the sea from a balcony in the cliff, the blue water hitting the shoreline below. 

Back along Los Boliches beachfront, we visited Restaurante Videra. Warm fresh bread dipped in the garlicy, herby olive oil of the gambas al pil-pil was a nice start, while the seabass was the star of the show. It was cooked on an outdoor grill, and the seasoning was top tier. Soft fish, lightly crisped skin... Mmm mmm mmm. I finished with the sweetest chocolate fondant I'd had in a while. Much like all meals we ate on this trip, everything was flavourful, and sooooo well priced. Back at home in the UK, you’d be paying triple for, in some cases, half the quality.

Sangria 

Sangria gets its own section. I feel I am leaving Spain with half my red blood cells actually being red wine. I love sangria, and while I do recreate it at home on occasion, I can't beat enjoying it overlooking the sea from various locations along the Costa Del Sol. From the €1.75 supermarket bottle to different restaurants' cocktail mix, each tasted unique, but all gave me holiday vibes. My only regret of the trip is that I didn't try the tinto de verano as recommended by my friend/colleague as the local preference for wine-based drink. I'll be back though!

All in all, this was solely a three-day escape to eat my body weight in bread and seafood. And you know what? Spanish food speaks to the heart. With all the walking, and the good quality, fresh food, it was healthy indulgence. Where to next for my next food escape?

Embracing the beauty of a party destination... and other things to do in Tenerife, Canary Islands

Tenerife has long had the reputation of being a party island; however it is so much more than that. A gorgeous volcanic island, the destination is rich in flora, sea views and craggy beaches. This year, we took a family trip to Tenerife at the same time as my parents, who were heading to Greece. Our family had a recent bereavement that we were all still feeling repercussions from, so it felt very fitting and comforting that is was a family trip, as opposed to the other usual styles of trips I take, like group or solo. We met my parents at the airport, and it was lovely chilling, chatting and being in a big(ger) group, before we separated for our respective gates.

Our final destination was Los Gigantes, a quiet town on the west coast of the island, which offered a plethora of activities aside from partying. So, non partiers, don’t disregard Tenerife; read on to embrace its beauty and other offerings.

Dining

We ate very well on this trip, and I’d never even considered Tenerife as a food destination. When it came to restaurants, we didn't really do much research; instead, we just went wherever our feet took us, then quickly looked at the Google or TripAdvisor rating once we found somewhere we liked.

On the first day, we landed late evening - around 7.30pm - on a Sunday night, so finding a spot to get dinner once we'd settled in our apart-hotel initially proved difficult. However, we stumbled across Rasie Steakhouse BBQ Place not too far from our hotel, ordering moments before their kitchen closed. For this last minute choice, we were surprised by the quality of the burgers, steak and mussels.

On our second night, we headed into Los Gigantes town and ate at Ohana, a welcoming spot with panoramic sea views. The sangria, paella and sea bass were particularly standout, and their levels of seasoning on all dishes was sooo good. We watched the sky change colour as we progressed through our meal, with an uninterrupted view as the sun finally set. We were lucky enough to have a south facing balcony back at our apartment, so enjoyed pink skies from there too on some evenings.

We had other meals on the trip too, of course, but the crème de la crème was the impromptu six-course meal we ate at Imperial Tai Pan, located in a shopping centre near Playa de las Vistas in the Playa de las Americas area. We managed to snap up a table before the slew of bookings, and despite their casual dress code, the design of the restaurant, level of service and food was more akin to a fancier dining experience. We chose a set menu for four or more people at a rather modest price, but boy, were we surprised. We had chicken, duck, ribs, beef... the sauces were glorious too. We were impressed, so took the servers advice and spent some of our evening afterwards at sister venue, Magic.

Shopping

Now, I'm not a fan of shopping; however, two of our group were, so we ventured to a few malls. The quality and pricing of clothes in Tenerife , even at the Spanish counterparts of the high street stores we have in England too, was brilliant. One of the places we ventured to, Siam Mall, was not only good for shopping, but it was absolutely beautiful, with Thai-inspired architecture, and so many palms peppering the sparkling area. The area would not have been out of place in LA... or Thailand, of course.

Waterpark

Tenerife is home to the largest waterpark in Europe: Siam Park - close to the aforementioned Siam Mall. My goodness, it is like another world! Genuinely, I felt like we stepped into Thailand! Stretching 185 square kilometres, the water rides are just half the attraction; the décor is so intricate, the walkways resemble tropical jungles, and everything is just beautiful. I'm not a rides kinda gal, but I absolutely loved the beach area - a MASSIVE fake beach with swaying palms, sparkling water and even sand - and enjoyed the crazy wave machine, which was turned on every so often. I also enjoyed the lazy river, where you float in a single, double or triple floaty down the waterway, which goes around a large portion of the waterpark. The others ventured on actual thrilling rides, speaking highly of every single one - especially the 26-metre vertical drop one, with views of the whole side of the island, and a crazy G-force.

Swimming

Keeping on the water theme, beach and pool days are obviously a must on holiday, and there was many an occasion, and setting, for swimming in Tenerife. Of course, the first full day of the trip was full holiday mode: hotel pool, reading and sunbathing. In Greece, I spotted people with a watermelon floaty, so on my return home, I went straight to Amazon and purchased one myself - floating in the pool in Tenerife in a watermelon was so serene.

The following day, we headed to Playa de las Vistas for a sandy beach day, as the ones near our hotel in Los Gigantes were largely rocky. The beach stretched for miles, and was a sunny spot, with beautiful blue sea. The waves were absolutely crazy (and claimed a pair of sunglasses and a swimming nose clip from our group), so we mostly waded instead of all-out swimming in the sea. Letting the waves crash into us was a simple pleasure, and the day was incredibly restorative. Some of the group even tried the local Maccers, and I've gotta say, they've got some nicer stuff than our English counterparts. They even serve
cervezas for those beer lovers amongst you...

Back in Los Gigantes on our final day, we started to embark on a coastal walk to further admire the area, with views of the sea stretching as far as the eye can see. The lofty mountains dwarfed the buildings in the area; to see the mountains on a clear day was astounding. Anyway, as we began this walk, we spotted Piscina Natural de Los Gigantes down towards the sea from our lofty position in the coastal walk. We hot footed it (literally... we were sweating haha) back to the hotel luggage storage room, and chucked on our swimmers. Swimming in the natural sea pool was one of my favourite parts of the holiday. My younger cousin guided me through the incredibly slippy moss covered rocks in her Crocs, and we swam/floated as we admired the craggy rocks around us, and the sea that stretched far out right in front of us. It was the perfect end to an incredible holiday, and the fact it was impromptu made it all the more sweeter.

The art of doing nothing... and other things to do in Crete, Greece*

On each of my trips abroad in the last seven years or so, I usually write a "... and other things to do in..." blog post that is both informative for readers who wish to visit that city or town, and a diary of sorts for me, so that I can look back and recall my trip in great detail. Usually, these blog posts have a good mix of top tips, sightseeing suggestions and other elements that readers can apply to their own trips... but, reader, not this time. That little asterisks at the end of the title is not there by accident. It is not the fault of my utterly relaxed thumbs accidentally hitting a key. For once, I took a proper, disconnect-from-reality holiday; I didn't punctuate my schedule with tourist attractions and restaurants, I had no set plans, just seven days ahead of me, armed with sun cream and some swimmers. And, boy, did I need it. So while this piece is littered with a few tips for Crete and Greece as a whole, it is more on the diary side on this occasion. Read on if you're nosy, or browse more informative posts here.

While I love the life I have built so far, the work I do to maintain and progress it has started to have an effect on both my mind and body. Day to day, I hold down a full-time job, two regular freelance roles and running my own business, not to mention keeping on top of my relationships and home, as well as my crusade against the garden slugs (it's currently 2-0 to them, urgh). For the longest while, most of my days are completely planned down to the hour from the moment my eyes open at 7, until 11/11.30 at night. Yes, I get a lot done, and I'm definitely receiving the rewards, but it has started to take a toll; it is not sustainable long term. Anyone watched the 2007 remake of Freaky Friday? I'm literally like the mum with all the phones and reminders. It's time to stop, smell the roses, and enjoy where I am now. If you are in a similar position, here's how I really and truly switched off on this trip to Crete - which can be applied to wherever you head off to.

Combat any issues before they arrive

Where possible, of course. I implored that this break to Greece would not be hectic or problematic in any way. I prepared all my freelance work for the rest of the month in advance, got everything to a place with Cards Inclusive, so that it could tick over for a week, and probably the easiest of the lot, made a comprehensive handover for my day job. This was not a holiday where I'd be responding to any WhatsApp messages that were seeking if "I could do something really quickly", and my various teams respected that.

While this holiday came around quickly, I did a few little Googles about Crete beforehand, so I could pack anything I may need for comfort. I learned that you can't flush any loo roll in Greece, so travelled with tiny bin bags, like nappy sacks, so I felt everything was a little more sanitary. Also, I packed bug spray, but thankfully only needed it once.

Choose your type of trip

I joined my friend, who we'll call the "boujie traveller" (and great holiday photographer I must add), and she pretty much arranged everything; all I had to was check us in and get us to the airport. We had previously travelled a few times in Australia, and it's just drama free - we do our own separate things, but also enjoy indulging in good food, drinks and times together.

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

We went all-inclusive - my first time ever. I couldn't get over how you can just get up and get a drink whenever you want, a snack whenever you want, and enjoy an unlimited buffet at meal times. Yes, I know. Where have I been? The food was nice - while it was nothing to write home about, it wasn't bad, and there was a nice selection of local dishes - and the alcoholic drinks were free poured. Result! I often had various types of cakes for dessert, sometimes treating them as a sample platter.

I must say, TUI really embodied the term 'service with a smile', and was very visible at check-in, on the flight, leading to the transfer, and even at the hotel. The hotel staff themselves were also incredibly friendly and helpful. It really added to the overall good and relaxed vibe of the trip.

Listen to your body

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

For the first time in ages, I could just listen to my body's every whim, not constrained by time, a to-do list I needed to tick off, or any responsibilities I had to fulfil by the end of the day. Hungry? Eat. Thirsty? Get a drink. Hot? Move in the shade or take a dip in the pool. My time was truly my own, and I haven't felt like that in a while. I read a book - a proper paperback by the pool - for the first time in years! I napped in the sun to lively tunes on the tannoy and the sounds of the sea. I danced in the pool at Aqua Zumba and to the resort's club dance, which was played three times a day, every day (the dance sequence is forever engrained in my head now). It was the right kind of 9 to 5: my office was my sunlounger, my job was working on me. One session of Aqua Aerobics and an early morning run were my only workouts, and they were because I wanted to, not because I felt I had to. I truly listened to my body, and I had some of the best sleep I've had in months!

Entertainment and excursions

Usually, I'm someone who feels I have to see all the main sights, I should stay out late to make the most of it. But who is this holiday for? Me! Most of the time I do want to do those things anyway, but I made sure I wasn't doing it on this trip purely out of some warped obligation.

For the most part, my main excursions were to the pool, to the sea, and to the pool bar, which sat kind of in between. However, on the sixth day, I ventured further than 500 metres from the pool (we'd previously done a little 10-minute walk in the evening, just down the streets of Maleme) and I hopped on "The Little Fun Train", which was a sightseeing road train I'd seen advertised multiple times throughout the complex and on our drive to the hotel. I embarked on a tour called "The Pleasures of Crete"; it was just €20 and far exceeded what I'd expected. The tour took us through villages almost untouched by mass tourism, such as Kolimbari, Afrata and Astratigos; stopped at the gorgeous 17th-century Monastery of Gonia which, while small, was serene and offered a magnificent view of the coast below; and to the Terra Creta Estate where we learned how olive oil is made. We took a tour of the factory, plus had a delicious tasting of different oils on bread and actual olives. We even briefly learned how other by-products, like olive soaps, are made. These olives are usually harvested in January and February and ship worldwide. There were a whole host of special ones available.

The hotel was family friendly, so the majority of the entertainment each night catered to that audience, and often the children in holiday mode were running about the club. We did however watch a fire show on our first night, and went for a drink at Greek Night, which boasted music and dancing... and the distinct smell of Ouzo.

Our third and final venture out of the hotel was for dinner at a seaside restaurant where we enjoyed pork gyros and were witnesses to a beautiful proposal on the beach.

One thing I didn't do, but my travel partner did, was watch the sunrise. She naturally woke up quite early on our second day and went out to watch it. I awoke hours later to find that she'd accidentally locked herself out the room, and was patiently awaiting me to wake her up to let her back in. Her pics looked glorious though; and when else are you going to be less than a minute away from the sea so you can watch it in your PJs?

Reconnect with nature

The sunrise leads on quite nicely to my next point. Nature can be so soothing; one of my favourite things to do is to listen to the birds or walk through the grass barefoot. Natural elements are another thing that was super restorative on this trip to Crete. Paddling in the sea, looking through the clear water at the schools of little fish. I could spend hours watching them swim and hearing the sounds of the sea. On a few evenings, we did the latter, listening from the strip of sand while the sunset.

Image taken by Tegan Reihana

Now, for someone with some Caribbean heritage, certain parts of my skin really can't take the sun. Namely, my arms and face. From stinging burn to itchy prickly heat, I have to be super careful in the sun - I tan a beautiful colour though, if I do say so myself. To soothe my skin, on my last full day, I had an aloe vera wrap at the hotel's spa. It came with a massage as the therapist applied the aloe vera all over my body, plus a scalp massage too. I was then wrapped like a little burrito to let the natural elements of the aloe do its thing. It most definitely helped!

All in all, while I holidayed in a way I haven't for over 10 years - with no plans and just lazing - it was much needed. I feel completely rejuvenated and healthy (in mind, at least... all-inclusive food and rum ain't necessarily healthy for body eh haha). Ready to go for the next one, and ready to take this zen attitude into my day-to-day life.

Getting out of my comfort zone... and other things to do in Colmar, France

At least once a year, I like to go on a solo adventure. This style of travel enables me to travel at my own pace, see places on my list that my loved ones may not wish to visit, and it is pretty empowering. However, prior to this getaway, my previous solo trips have usually been to English-speaking countries (like Australia and Scotland), or to join an organised tour (as I did for Morocco and Cuba) - or just for the day via the Eurostar. However, this time, I decided to up the ante a little. Armed with my Duolingo app and over a decade-old GCSE French skills, I embarked on a three-day trip to Colmar in France. By train. With a small backpack. A mini interrailing adventure, some might say!

Colmar is a town in the Alsace region that I’ve longed to visit for a while. So much so, in fact, that it even earned its own spot on my #30before30 list. Situated close to the French-German and French-Swiss borders, the medieval architecture and quaint town centre look like something out of a fairytale, and I had to see it first hand. This holiday definitely put me out of my comfort zone in a variety of ways, but all with positive outcomes.

The trains

The moment Eurostar announced their ‘£35 one way’ sale in February, I knew what I had to do. After an hour of logistics and planning between the Eurostar and TGV websites, I booked my tickets to Paris and Colmar. Just three-to-four train rides from my Sussex home and I could be in Colmar! Hey, that's fewer changes than I make to get to some places in London! The journey would include a four-hour stopover in Paris each way - a city I've visited on various occasions in the last 11 years - so initially, I wasn’t out of my comfort zone at all. I knew I needed to get about with ease, so avoided large luggage; I decided to pack super lightly (the lightest I've ever packed for an overnight(s) stay, actually), fitting everything in my little backpack and handbag.

Where being out of my comfort zone came into play was when it came to understanding the train route. For the fourth train, my ticket said I needed to change at Strasbourg, but my third train was headed to Colmar as its final destination anyway. Initially, I was very confused, intently listening to announcements, but understanding very few sentences. Once I checked the SNCF website, it showed there was a 15-minute stop in Strasbourg - no changes needed on my way to Colmar. However, on my return journey, I did have to change. I used the same website’s arrivals and departures board to coordinate my platform change. The travel Gods were smiling down on me: although there are around 30 platforms at Strasbourg, my platforms were less than two minutes apart, and my onward train was delayed by 10 minutes anyway, so I had ample time to get to the right place. On the Eurostar back, it was like the Eurostar company had been confused, and/or had a glitch, as my seat was double booked! I was already seated when the other traveller and her husband arrived, and we both showed each other our tickets, and they were the same. We had a laugh about it, and as I was settled, they sought to rectify it with the conductor.

France is still pretty strict on the Covid regulations when it comes to public transport: before you even enter King’s Cross’ Eurostar area on your way to France, a guard instructs all masks are on properly, then before passport control, another guard scans your vaccine QR code. If your vaccine is over 9 months old, it must include the QR code for your booster too. This was the first time since I’ve been vaccinated that my QR code has actually been scanned, not just looked at, and I’ve been to three countries in that time…

Language

A big element of being out of my comfort zone was the language barrier. Unlike many tourist towns and cities I've visited, almost no one back home had heard of Colmar, and upon arrival, I realised there were very few British tourists here. Not just that, but where I was staying, about 15 minutes out of the centre, there weren't many tourists full stop. In the town centre, there were more English speakers working in the shops and at attractions, but even the other tourists were mostly from their neighbouring countries like Germany and Switzerland. While at first, this made me a little uncomfortable, soon after, I very much embraced it. For years, I've been learning French on and off, and being in Colmar on my own fully immersed me in the language and helped to expand my vocabulary. I even had to learn how to say "there's a cockroach in my bathroom, help!" in French - that insect definitely put me out of my comfort zone!

Sightseeing

Usually, my go-to routine when travelling solo is to board a city sightseeing bus, get a little history and overview of the city, then stick my headphones in, listen to my music, and explore the attractions more closely on foot. I did a version of that in Colmar, but this time, the other way around. Even something as simple as this was new for me - not completely out of my comfort zone per say, but a little different. Without context or my bearings from that preliminary tour, I just walked and got lost in the weaving streets of the Old Town, snapping pics of the beautiful bold buildings and their intricate roofs, sometimes accidentally circling back to the same spot or retracing my steps.

After getting my bearings on foot, I bought a ticket for a 30-minute boat tour along Petite Venise. I boarded the small wooden boat with a German family; the host asked what languages we'd like and thankfully did all three (French, German and English). It was beautiful to see the town from the water, and also venture into an area with more wildlife and bountiful bird calls.

After disembarking, I walked back into the main area to admire the architecture of Maison Pfister and neighbouring Saint Martin Collegial, and then intended to make my way to the Unterlinden Museum, but instead decided on a whim to board the tourist train - a train version of my fave bus tours, woohoo! I got to learn the history of some of the impactful buildings, as well as other fun facts I otherwise would not have known. I mean, who else is counting the heads on the facade of Maison des Tetes? It's worth carrying a bit of cash as you venture around Colmar's town centre; I had to run to an ATM to pay for the tourist train, and also had to find a different shop for bottled water at one point earlier in the trip, due to a minimum card spend.

Unfortunately, one thing I missed out on was the Alsace wine route. I'd really hoped it for my itinerary, but only the full-day tours were available during my stay (half-day tours were available at other times of the week) and I didn't want to lose out on eight hours in Colmar itself. Without a car, pre-organised tours are the best way to do the wine tours and the castle.

Dining alone

For some reason, I have absolutely no qualms over eating breakfast or lunch alone in a restaurant, but I have a sticking point when it comes to dinner. Of course, I've dined on my evening meal on other travels, but I'd always eat as quickly as possible. However, here, I had no choice but to enjoy a long, indulgent meal, solo. On my first night, I chose to dine close to my hotel. As noted above, this meant absolutely no English-speaking staff. However, I apologised for my poor French (en francais, of course) and the waiters were very patient and gentil to me... but all the while speaking French, so I really had to practise. I realise the locals here love veal, so I made sure to have at least one veal-based meal during my stay. On the first night, this was washed down with a few Saint Germain spritzes because it was the restaurant’s speciality.

Overall, I am very proud of myself for stepping out of my comfort zone, and it’s given me the confidence to consider a long train-based trip. A luxury interrailing trip perhaps… hey, Orient Express, do you have any deals going?!

Bonus paragraph: A brief interlude in Paris

It wouldn't be a truly accurate article on my trip if I didn't detail my time in Paris, which bookended my time in Colmar. I spent around four hours in Paris each way. One of my favourite places in Paris is the fountains outside the Louvre, so I made a beeline for this from Gare du Nord upon arrival in France. I then decided to take a Batobus river cruise down the Seine; it is a cheap and yet lovely alternative to just strolling along the banks myself. Unfortunately, I missed the first boat of the day by mere minutes, which meant by the time I boarded, I couldn't do the whole loop otherwise would have missed my train to Colmar. However, I made up for it on my trip home by visiting my favourite sites again, like Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower (sorry, I'm a basic tourist!), making friends with a Californian tourist, and visiting Laduree for macarons. They were so polite and lovely, and I chose some unique flavours like black sesame and the Marie Antoinette, the latter of which was quite zesty. A great few hours spent in the French capital on both travel days.

How to properly unwind on a city break... and other things to do in Budapest, Hungary

To say life has been hectic recently would be an understatement. Work, freelance, running a business, medical appointments, coordinating a surprise event... it's been a lot. Throw in the threat of a third world war, the constant flow of demoralising news day in, day out, and it's enough to make anyone want to curl up in a ball and just sleep for a week.

Often with my city breaks, I plan to pack in as much as possible, as not to miss a thing, but not this time. This trip to Budapest would be a well-earned break. However, down to the last few hours before travelling, the trip nearly didn’t happen; we ummed and ahhed about even going, given the devastating and scary situation in neighbouring Ukraine. However, after a lot of late-night research the night before, we decided to still board our flight early the next morning.

Pace things out

Usually, my city breaks are two to three days long. However, the addition of just one extra day made all the difference for Budapest. We were able to enjoy activities without watching the clock, often coming back to the hotel mid-afternoon for an hour or two to relax, before any evening activities. We had time to stroll and just take everything in. On the first day, we impromptu went to the Castle District where we could linger at lookouts, stroll the area and wall walk, and admire the ornate buildings at a slow pace. Perhaps in an unrelaxing turn, we headed ascended on foot, but we were sure to get the funicular back down the hillside. From above, the view over the Danube River and surrounding buildings were like something out of a postcard.

Seek out a spa

Is there anything more relaxing than a spa day? I think not. As we were staying for four days, we were able to dedicate a full day to visiting Szechenyi Baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe. Made up of 18 thermal baths, with temperatures varying from 28 to 38 degrees, Szechenyi is HUGE, situated in a gorgeous neoclassical yellow building. Outside, you’ll find two large baths and one swimming pool, and inside lie the 15 more (including a beer bath…) We were going to have a phone-free day, and marked out our route from the hotel on a map, but Covid passes were required for entry, so in the end, we took one phone. It is worth noting that the only two times we needed a Covid pass were to enter the country and to enter this spa. We opted for a private cabin each when we pre-booked our tickets. There are hundreds of them, each secured using a digital key on your wrist. They felt very safe to leave our belongings in and were great to freely get changed in with privacy; the alternative is the communal changing areas with lockers, like at a UK swimming pool.

Despite the nippy 12 degree temperatures, with the sun on our face and warm waters surrounding us, it felt truly like we were on holiday and all our cares washed away. For something a little more up-tempo, you can head into the middle of the left pool, which has a current running through it, whisking you around in a circle around a central bath. I attempted it in one of the slower settings - it was fun! Inside, the various baths feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to Ancient Rome, or the like, where you’ll relax under grand ornate ceilings. Frankly, we felt it had a Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. Specifically, a series of individual versions of the bathroom the trio brew polyjuice potion in, for any Harry Potter fans out there.

Eat, drink and be merry

Oh, how we ate on this trip; and eating feeds the soul and helps us feel content, right? We started with two breakfasts on the day of arrival - a humble croissant at the airport, followed by a sit-down, cooked breakfast at the grand Gerbeaud, a Parisian, old world-style eatery, established in 1858 - and continued on a similar path.

Hungarian food is quite meat-heavy, so as I was travelling with a vegetarian, we opted for more world foods, with Hungarian twists. One great dinner we had was at Osteria, a delicious Italian in Pest. I had a roasted duck, caramelised onion and chilli pizza, followed by a gorgeous chocolate pannacotta. There was also a creative selection of cocktails - I tried basil wine, but then went firmly back to rose margaritas - as well as a range of gin and tonics, including floral, local, and tropical options.

On another evening, we went for an Israeli-Mediterranean meze at Mazel Tov. With a 'bring the outdoors inside' style and live acoustic guitar music, the whole dining experience here was very relaxed. Yet again, we had two courses, eating the delicious dips, salads and pita, until our stomachs and hearts were full. Soothing live music seemed to be the theme of that evening, as we also stopped by Doblo wine bar on the way back to the hotel who, under their atmospheric lighting, had a live singer to accompany our nightcap.

Of course, you can't visit Budapest without checking out a ruin bar (or two). Housed in derelict buildings or unused spaces, these bright and bold bars offer refuge from the cold, good vibes and cheap drinks. The closest to our hotel was the well-known Szimpla Kert. The best way I can describe it is a series of bars next to each other with the fronts cut out and communal seating for all - think food market but indoors, without the food, and with live music. It is perfect for a casual few drinks (or for many drinks, if you’re on a stag or hen!)

Other spots we visited on our travels were the anglicised, but still lovely Cafe Brunch Budapest - situated opposite Central Market Hall, which we had intended to visit but it was closed - and brewery Mad House, where I tried a beer, gin and lemonade cocktail, and ate more duck.

Leisurely sightsee, instead of ‘go, go, go’

Anyone who either knows me personally or follows my travels knows I love a sightseeing bus. Yes, they're touristy, but they're oh so convenient and offer introductory knowledge to the city you're visiting. We opted for a 48-hour ticket in Budapest, which included a boat tour. It enabled us to see a lot of the city centre from both land and water with ease, learning about the buildings and their history, as we basked in the sun (and wind on the bus’ top deck...) The following day we did another loop of the bus just to pass the time, and enjoy the city in new weather: in the snow. We were lucky, as we stayed opposite the beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, so we were able to join the route with ease. Nothing seemed rushed or stressful, but we managed to pack in a lot.

Speaking of religious buildings, Budapest's St Stephen's Basilica is one of the most beautiful churches I've ever been in - a record previously held by Barcelona's Sagrada Familia. Fairly modern in the scheme of things, as it was completed in 1905, the gold, the frescos, and the grandness of it all were incredible. I personally find religious buildings soothing and peaceful, so it was another way to relax and take some time to reflect. Less peaceful though was the panoramic terrace at the top of the dome, which we accessed by a kind of precarious winding metal staircase (but got the lift down, thankfully); however, it was lovely to see the city from above again, similar to the way we started our trip in the Castle District.

Contradictory to our chilled-out vibes on the rest of our trip, we also visited the House of Terror, the museum that detailed the Soviet Union's rule after World War Two. The museum taught me a lot about a period I knew nothing about. Ironically, we stumbled across a support rally and concert for Ukraine after our spa visit the day before, which was run by this museum.

For the whole trip, we took things at a good pace, had a lot of respites, and my travel partner (my ex-flatmate) and I ensured we did things we both enjoyed. We found the city was great in the day, and even more lovely by night, all lit up - something my brother has specifically pointed out after his visit a few years ago. The Hungarian people were lovely too, from taxi drivers to waiters and waitresses. The thing that really made us smile was the drivers when we were pedestrians crossing the road. We’re not sure if it’s a rule there, but they always went out of their way to stop and let us cross. All in all, a thoroughly relaxing escape.

Turning a staycation into a vacation... and other things to do in the Scottish Highlands

2021 is all about the staycation. The travel companies know it, and we know it. Cornwall's holiday homes, hotels and hostels were 98% booked up for this summer as of April 2021, according to Cornwall Live, while the Peak District has had a huge increase in visitors this year, according to ITV. However, staycationing may not always feel like the ‘vacation’ we crave. Be it the weather, the similar culture, listening to people speak the same language you hear in the (home) office everyday…

Just across the border, Scotland awaits. Technically, I left my home country of England, but I thankfully didn't have to pay through my nose for the privilege of having a swab stuck up there. I made sure I incorporated many aspects of a vacation into this staycation though, so I truly feel like I’ve been ‘away’.

A beach in the Highlands (yes, really!)

I've previously staycationed in Edinburgh, Scotland, so although I'm currently doing my best J K Rowling impression and writing this piece in the Scottish capital – with a mention of the famed boy wizard thrown in for good measure – I'm offering a new angle to hero the Scottish Highlands aspects of this trip. Although this piece does feature a few Edinburgh anecdotes, for a more Edinburgh-based piece, you can click here.

So, here we go, here's how to really staycation like you're on a foreign vacation...

Tap into what ignites your holiday fire

Is it an adventurous escapade? An all-inclusive blissful break? For me, solo travel truly gives me that sense of travel and adventure – though usually I'm headed to medinas in Morocco or white-sand beaches in Cuba. A little less warm, but just as beautiful, an escape to the Highlands offers mountains, waterfalls and gorgeous scenery galore, just like Morocco; however, the choice of tipple is whisky instead of Cuba's rum. I joined a day tour, instead of my usual week-long group tour, and it was brilliant. It sounds silly to say, but apart from my trip to Loch Lomond where I actively sought out solitude to write, solo travelling isn’t usually a lonely experience. You meet people alllll the time. However, unlike pre-Covid, there was little to no mingling between groups on this tour, which made for a more solitary experience for solo travellers – something I also learned living in Sydney last year. Blaaaaady Covid.

A view from the tour bus

It's not all wandering around gorgeous places in your own world though. Yes, while solo travel usually meant making new friends, in the age of staycations, it might mean bumping into your existing ones instead! Back down in Edinburgh, it seemed as though everyone had the same England-to-Scotland idea as I met up with two friends and their travel companions; one to climb Arthur's Seat and another for a morning smoothie at Hula.

Top of Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh

Stick to your travel routine

My pre-travel routine always included grabbing a magazine and a few snacks from WHSmiths – though usually at an airport instead of a train station. I made sure I did the very same at Kings Cross.

Once in Scotland itself, another non-Highlands-and-actually-Edinburgh experience (don’t worry, I’m getting to Highlands content in the next paragraph!) was hopping aboard a sightseeing bus. I've lost count it how many of these I've done in various cities, but I find them so helpful in getting my bearings, travelling between the main tourist sights, and gaining some insight into the city's history and culture.

Lunch stop views in Mallaig

Downing an ice-cold lemonade is another act that just gives me the holiday feels. I ensured to keep up the tradition, accompanied by a fish and chips, in Mallaig, while overlooking the harbour. I also spent some time there overlooking the gorgeous loch, under the bright blue sky. You'd be forgiven for thinking we were in Switzerland there. Actually, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in Switzerland, or Iceland for that matter, anywhere in the Scottish Highlands! The White House, Glencoe (its actual postal address) gave me major Vik vibes.

The White House, Glencoe

Try the local food and drink

Food is such an important part of travel culture, and trying new dishes will really feel like you're away from home. While Scotland is still in the UK, there are some different culinary offerings you can get your teeth into, including black pudding, haggis, shortbread, single malt whisky, gin... In the town of Pitlochry, you'll find a sweet shop near the main public car park that serves multicoloured rainbow ice cream (I can hear the influencers flocking already!) and whiskey ice cream, made using real, local whiskey.

Pitlochry

Chat to people

Engaging with locals is another huge part of travel, and in the Highlands, there's no language barrier... well, not a huge one. Fun fact: once you reach the roads just outside Callander, Stirling, all the road signs are in both Gaelic and English. But yes, back to the main point; although the interaction between you and other travellers may be at a minimum during these Covid times, I've honestly never met more helpful staff, tour guides, waiters and waitresses! These service people are a wealth of knowledge. A stop at an Edinburgh gin shop led to a delicious dinner at Maki and Ramen, where I ate both maki and ramen. The sales attendant in the gin shop recommended it.

Back in the Highlands, I learned so much about the Scottish clans, English-Scottish history (FYI, Scone Palace and the stone of Scone is pronounced ‘Scoone’, offering a whole new dynamic to the scone/scone debate) and little local facts from the guide, such as the existence of request-only train stops. The guide also provided little language insights, for example, 'inver' means 'flowing into', i.e. Inverness means flowing into the Loch Ness.

The tour featured live commentary, punctuated with various Scottish music. My two favourites were listening to Skyfall, after venturing through the other-worldly landscape where James Bond stays with M towards the end of the eponymous film and, after seeing the famed Hogwarts Express viaduct, which is actually called Glenfinnan Viaduct, we listened to music composed for the Harry Potter films. It really felt like we were in a movie, travelling through those landscapes, listening to that music.

Jacobite steam train crossing Glenfinnan Viaduct

Final word

Right, so a big elephant in the room to conclude this piece: UK staycations and the weather. Now, of course, I would love to travel somewhere with guaranteed weather; however, Scotland showed UP on this trip. Not one drop of rain graced my head and it was mostly sunny throughout. Glencoe was notoriously a moody grey, but we got the benefit of seeing two rainbows without rain, so I'll take it. Overall, a fabulous trip, and I cannot wait to return!

Admiring amazing architecture... and other things to do in Seville, Spain

From the moment you enter many of Seville's hotels, with their imposing wooden doors that lead to a pretty internal courtyard or thoroughfare before you even reach the main door, the city's beauty is inescapable. Wander the streets for only a few moments, and you're pretty likely to stumble across (maybe literally - hello, cobblestones) sweeping arches, intricate architecture and bold colours, shaded by pretty palm and orange trees. One of the most beautiful cities I've been to for sure, with striking elements reminiscent of Cuba and Morocco. The architecture is predominantly Moorish and Gothic, with a strong Christian and Islamic influences, so those similarities make a lot of sense.

Royal Alcazar

If you've got a long weekend upcoming, or just want a little mini-break, Seville is the one. We spent just two full days in the city, and got loads done - everything is within an easy walking distance of one another, especially if you stay near the centre; in fact, the only transport you need is an airport transfer (we used Welcome Pick Ups; their drivers were so friendly and very punctual). We stayed at El Escondite de Maria (its decor, service and location was unbeatable), near the Metropol Parasol, and the furthest out we walked to a landmark was 40 minutes. So, grab your flight and hotel, and tick these beauties off your list: 

Cathedrals

Of course, a visit to the city's eponymous cathedral is essential. UNESCO-listed Seville Cathedral is like a signpost when walking in the city; we passed it countless times in our 48 hours. Upon arrival to the first landmark of our visit, we queued, drinking in its beautiful, intricate exterior while we waited. Once inside, it was just as impressive - so huge and beautiful with impressive pillars, and ceiling architecture. It is also home to the Giralda Tower, which boasts fantastic views of the city. Unfortunately, the tower, and roof tour, was sold out in English by the time we arrived (midday) and you can't do it without a guide, so it's best to buy tickets beforehand.

Area outside the cathedral

Along one side of the cathedral is the Patio de las Naranjas, which is a beautiful area lined with the city's famous orange trees, fruitful even in November. We tried some vino de naranja - orange wine - at a tapas bar-restaurant called La Moderna, a four-minute walk from this area. Boyyyyy, was it sweet! The portion sizes of the tapas at this spot were generous, especially the patatas bravas and seafood, and so tasty.

Your cathedral ticket also affords you a free trip to Iglesia del Salvador - do NOT skip this one. Formally a mosque, now a church, personally, I thought it was more gorgeous than Seville Cathedral. A bright pink exterior leads to the most breathtaking gold, intricate pieces of artwork and sculptures on the inside, stretching high up into the fantastic frescoed ceilings. Maybe it was just because of the time of day we visited, but the light streams through the stained glass, showering rainbows all over the place - I was awestruck.

Palaces

The Royal Alcazar, the oldest used palace in Europe, built in the 14th century, is one of the city’s main attractions. It's opposite the cathedral and this is one I definitely recommend pre-booking as the queues can be long, however, sooo worth it. Get ready to get lost amidst sprawling gardens, with landscaped, maze-style bushes, palm trees and fountains, fantastic bold colours in the walls and stone, intricate ceramics and mosaics, breathtaking artwork, stunning frescos, and so much more. My Morocco comparison is even more valid here, as there was an area literally the spitting image of my hotel in Chefchaouen.

Now, not really a palace but I've put it under this category because, MY GOD, it deserves it: Plaza de España was like being in another world. It’s like a little Venice, with pretty bridges and boats sailing down the water, mixed with Montmartre-Paris vibes, thanks to the pretty streetlights, each adorned with unique ceramic tiles, and, also, classically Spanish with live music and outdoor flamenco shows peppering the area - an elite take on our street performers, if you will. It was my favourite spot in the whole city.

Modern structures

While Seville is steeped in historical architecture, there are more modern gems, too, namely the Metropol Parasol. The highest wooden structure in the world, it is also a sight to behold from street level. However, its criss-cross design truly unveils itself when you get to the top: it’s like a mini-city of intertwining walkways, with stunning city views to boot. After you're done wandering this marvel and getting selfies galore, treat yourself to sangria and tapas (we went for Spanish omelette, and started what ended up being an intense nine-egg day for us both) - both were delicious here, and served with a side of cool rooftop views.

Other buildings

Some buildings here aren't about what they look like - though a stroll through the colourful Santa Cruz area (Jewish Quarter) by the cathedral and Alcazar defo is - it's what you can do inside them: eat and drink! On our first night, we went to a traditional local tapas bar, Los Coloniales, where we ate like the locals - standing and eating, and chatting at the bar, like we may have a pint in an English pub. It was so fast-paced, and we were surrounded by Spanish speakers. We learned you don't need to form an orderly queue and press your stomach or chest against the bar to get served either, which is great.

Another dining spot we visited was Taberna La Subasta, where we dined alfresco in the middle of November, thanks to the heaters; there's just something about eating outside that reinforces holiday vibes, amiright? The paella here was so tasty, and the sangria more so. However, the most lethal sangria of the lot was the one we had at The Second Room - there were at least four different types of alcohol along with the fruit and wine, including Cointreau and vodka. Also, if you get the time, check out El Rinconillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville. However, it's best to go in the day and it is teeming with people come evening.

Have you stayed longer in Seville? What other recommendations do you have?