How to properly unwind on a city break... and other things to do in Budapest, Hungary

To say life has been hectic recently would be an understatement. Work, freelance, running a business, medical appointments, coordinating a surprise event... it's been a lot. Throw in the threat of a third world war, the constant flow of demoralising news day in, day out, and it's enough to make anyone want to curl up in a ball and just sleep for a week.

Often with my city breaks, I plan to pack in as much as possible, as not to miss a thing, but not this time. This trip to Budapest would be a well-earned break. However, down to the last few hours before travelling, the trip nearly didn’t happen; we ummed and ahhed about even going, given the devastating and scary situation in neighbouring Ukraine. However, after a lot of late-night research the night before, we decided to still board our flight early the next morning.

Pace things out

Usually, my city breaks are two to three days long. However, the addition of just one extra day made all the difference for Budapest. We were able to enjoy activities without watching the clock, often coming back to the hotel mid-afternoon for an hour or two to relax, before any evening activities. We had time to stroll and just take everything in. On the first day, we impromptu went to the Castle District where we could linger at lookouts, stroll the area and wall walk, and admire the ornate buildings at a slow pace. Perhaps in an unrelaxing turn, we headed ascended on foot, but we were sure to get the funicular back down the hillside. From above, the view over the Danube River and surrounding buildings were like something out of a postcard.

Seek out a spa

Is there anything more relaxing than a spa day? I think not. As we were staying for four days, we were able to dedicate a full day to visiting Szechenyi Baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe. Made up of 18 thermal baths, with temperatures varying from 28 to 38 degrees, Szechenyi is HUGE, situated in a gorgeous neoclassical yellow building. Outside, you’ll find two large baths and one swimming pool, and inside lie the 15 more (including a beer bath…) We were going to have a phone-free day, and marked out our route from the hotel on a map, but Covid passes were required for entry, so in the end, we took one phone. It is worth noting that the only two times we needed a Covid pass were to enter the country and to enter this spa. We opted for a private cabin each when we pre-booked our tickets. There are hundreds of them, each secured using a digital key on your wrist. They felt very safe to leave our belongings in and were great to freely get changed in with privacy; the alternative is the communal changing areas with lockers, like at a UK swimming pool.

Despite the nippy 12 degree temperatures, with the sun on our face and warm waters surrounding us, it felt truly like we were on holiday and all our cares washed away. For something a little more up-tempo, you can head into the middle of the left pool, which has a current running through it, whisking you around in a circle around a central bath. I attempted it in one of the slower settings - it was fun! Inside, the various baths feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to Ancient Rome, or the like, where you’ll relax under grand ornate ceilings. Frankly, we felt it had a Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. Specifically, a series of individual versions of the bathroom the trio brew polyjuice potion in, for any Harry Potter fans out there.

Eat, drink and be merry

Oh, how we ate on this trip; and eating feeds the soul and helps us feel content, right? We started with two breakfasts on the day of arrival - a humble croissant at the airport, followed by a sit-down, cooked breakfast at the grand Gerbeaud, a Parisian, old world-style eatery, established in 1858 - and continued on a similar path.

Hungarian food is quite meat-heavy, so as I was travelling with a vegetarian, we opted for more world foods, with Hungarian twists. One great dinner we had was at Osteria, a delicious Italian in Pest. I had a roasted duck, caramelised onion and chilli pizza, followed by a gorgeous chocolate pannacotta. There was also a creative selection of cocktails - I tried basil wine, but then went firmly back to rose margaritas - as well as a range of gin and tonics, including floral, local, and tropical options.

On another evening, we went for an Israeli-Mediterranean meze at Mazel Tov. With a 'bring the outdoors inside' style and live acoustic guitar music, the whole dining experience here was very relaxed. Yet again, we had two courses, eating the delicious dips, salads and pita, until our stomachs and hearts were full. Soothing live music seemed to be the theme of that evening, as we also stopped by Doblo wine bar on the way back to the hotel who, under their atmospheric lighting, had a live singer to accompany our nightcap.

Of course, you can't visit Budapest without checking out a ruin bar (or two). Housed in derelict buildings or unused spaces, these bright and bold bars offer refuge from the cold, good vibes and cheap drinks. The closest to our hotel was the well-known Szimpla Kert. The best way I can describe it is a series of bars next to each other with the fronts cut out and communal seating for all - think food market but indoors, without the food, and with live music. It is perfect for a casual few drinks (or for many drinks, if you’re on a stag or hen!)

Other spots we visited on our travels were the anglicised, but still lovely Cafe Brunch Budapest - situated opposite Central Market Hall, which we had intended to visit but it was closed - and brewery Mad House, where I tried a beer, gin and lemonade cocktail, and ate more duck.

Leisurely sightsee, instead of ‘go, go, go’

Anyone who either knows me personally or follows my travels knows I love a sightseeing bus. Yes, they're touristy, but they're oh so convenient and offer introductory knowledge to the city you're visiting. We opted for a 48-hour ticket in Budapest, which included a boat tour. It enabled us to see a lot of the city centre from both land and water with ease, learning about the buildings and their history, as we basked in the sun (and wind on the bus’ top deck...) The following day we did another loop of the bus just to pass the time, and enjoy the city in new weather: in the snow. We were lucky, as we stayed opposite the beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, so we were able to join the route with ease. Nothing seemed rushed or stressful, but we managed to pack in a lot.

Speaking of religious buildings, Budapest's St Stephen's Basilica is one of the most beautiful churches I've ever been in - a record previously held by Barcelona's Sagrada Familia. Fairly modern in the scheme of things, as it was completed in 1905, the gold, the frescos, and the grandness of it all were incredible. I personally find religious buildings soothing and peaceful, so it was another way to relax and take some time to reflect. Less peaceful though was the panoramic terrace at the top of the dome, which we accessed by a kind of precarious winding metal staircase (but got the lift down, thankfully); however, it was lovely to see the city from above again, similar to the way we started our trip in the Castle District.

Contradictory to our chilled-out vibes on the rest of our trip, we also visited the House of Terror, the museum that detailed the Soviet Union's rule after World War Two. The museum taught me a lot about a period I knew nothing about. Ironically, we stumbled across a support rally and concert for Ukraine after our spa visit the day before, which was run by this museum.

For the whole trip, we took things at a good pace, had a lot of respites, and my travel partner (my ex-flatmate) and I ensured we did things we both enjoyed. We found the city was great in the day, and even more lovely by night, all lit up - something my brother has specifically pointed out after his visit a few years ago. The Hungarian people were lovely too, from taxi drivers to waiters and waitresses. The thing that really made us smile was the drivers when we were pedestrians crossing the road. We’re not sure if it’s a rule there, but they always went out of their way to stop and let us cross. All in all, a thoroughly relaxing escape.

A return to international travel... and other things to do in Copenhagen, Denmark

Oh, international travel, how I've missed you. The joy of exploring, hearing other languages, and experiencing things you can't at home. I’m thankful to be privileged enough to say that travel has been such a big part of my identity for the last decade, so being able to do so again made me very content. I couldn't stop smiling behind my mask (even during take-off and landing, despite having an enduring dislike of the sensation).

The destination this time was Copenhagen, Denmark. I'd wanted to visit the canal-side city for a few years now, and as luck would have it, ticket prices, red lists, and lateral flow tests lined up just right to make it possible. However, having not travelled to Europe since before the pandemic, since before Brexit, and generally having not gotten on a plane in well over a year, there was plenty to remember...

Covid must-haves

The biggest change to international travel has, of course, been the introduction of Covid regulations. At the time of booking, flying, and writing this piece, Denmark was a non-red list country and, before we flew, travellers only had to take a day 2 lateral flow test. Murphy's law, this changed while we were in Denmark, but thankfully, we were due to return just before the changes came into effect. For the past year, I was under the impression it was pretty convoluted to travel, but actually, once you're prepared, it is fine. Here's what you'll need to do:

- Pre-book your relevant test(s) for your return to the UK (be that a day 2 lateral flow, a PCR, or whatever else private test the government is charging for at the mo…)
- Have your vaccine passport to hand (on your phone suffices, but a printout is also fine)
- Fill out a passenger locater form. You’ll need your passport, vaccine information and pre-booked test information to do this. You can only complete this 48 hours before you land in the UK, but you can start it beforehand and get an email link sent to you to complete the rest at the right time. It's simple to complete on your phone if you don't have access to a laptop.

On the way out of the UK, have your vaccine passport to hand at the gate (alongside the regular requirements of passport and boarding pass). On the way back, you'll need those three, plus your completed passenger locator form, with its QR code at the top.

In Denmark, you'll need to show your vaccine passport to do anything indoors, from eating to entering attractions, drinking to dining in the hotel restaurant for breakfast. I got more use out of my vaccine passport in the first hour of being in the country than I have in the last six months in the UK. Our hotel gave us their own Covid pass once we showed our official one at check-in, which we had to display on our tables at brekkie.

Planning your trip

I rely on lists and reminders SO much in daily life (I always joke that I'm like Jamie Lee Curtis' character in the 2003 Freaky Friday with her million phones, alarms and things to coordinate), and travelling is no different. However, it's not foolproof; my packing list did not include a plug adaptor! What even are they again? In a post-Covid world, I also recommend making restaurant bookings, at least for dinner. We found that most restaurants we visited were fully booked, and while we did have dinner reservations, pre-dinner drinks were often enjoyed outside instead. We were surprised how common alfresco dining in nearly December is in Copenhagen - there are fires, blankets and electric heaters abound.

While we visited a few eateries, the standouts were Bøf & Ost, ideally located next to a public Christmas tree; Restaurant Tight for fab starters and veggie options; and Nyhavns Færgekro for scrumptious Danish meatballs (served with potatoes, cranberry sauce and red cabbage). The latter, which was recommended by an ex-colleague/friend of mine, has 20 different aquavit (schnapps) that they brew themselves, and is set in the building that once housed the shipping company White Star Line; it was where the locals could purchase tickets to the Titanic. Everything we ate on our trip was so well seasoned. And the pastries? Sweet, soft and delicious. We also noted in the indoor food market, TorvehallerneKBH, how decent the alcohol measures were too...

If you have access to the internet whilst abroad included in your mobile plan, everything is quite simple (I don't actually have access, but my travel buddy did!) We used CityMapper to get from the airport to the city centre, and walked everywhere else. And actually, if you don't have internet, the Danish folk are so unbelievably friendly and helpful. Our London sensibilities were surprised, but welcomed it. It must be all that hygge.

See the seasonal sights

I've honestly never seen as many Christmas trees per square mile as I saw on this city break. And I blaaaaady loved it. From those being sold on the street to those decorating the centres of markets or squares, they were everywhere. Don't even start me on Tivoli Gardens - but more on that shortly. We visited three Christmas markets on our first day, starting near our hotel and ending at Kongens Nytorv. If there was a takeaway from the markets, it would be to try the gløgg. It's a must. Mulled wine, with a shot of additional spirit - I opted for rum each time. And if you want something to soak it up, you can't go wrong with the mini Nutella pancakes or æbleskiver (dough balls with sugar and jam).

Right, back to Tivoli Gardens. The place is MAGICAL. The team dress the whole venue seasonally, and my goodness, it looks like no expense is spared and no detail missed. The gardens are gorgeous, with the trees lit up at night (we enjoyed æbleskiver with gløgg by the water, which was lit beautifully), and the rides and fairground games are fab. I'm not a ride person (see: dislike of flight sensations in the intro), but I still went on one, and it was great. The Danish peeps bring their atmospheric lighting A-game, especially when it comes to fairy lights (both in and out of Tivoli Gardens). I mean, it does make sense, as their daylight hours feel short - not Iceland levels, but still a little darker in winter than the UK. Sunrise was at about 8.15am during our late November visit, with the sun setting before 4pm.

Visit the canals

We visited the famous Nyhavns waterfront a few times during our trip, admiring the colourful façades. We also took the waters on an hour-long boat tour of the canals and inner-city harbours, which provided a brilliant overview of the city's main canal-side attractions, some of its history, and the various communities’ way of life. On this tour, we sailed right up to the famed Little Mermaid statue (which we learned was commissioned by the son of the founder of Carlsberg, after he watched a ballet performance of the well-known tale in the city). The live commentary also further proved what my travel buddy and I had pondered ourselves already: the Danish are quite ingenious. One example is the city incinerator, which offers the public views over Copenhagen and neighbouring Malmo in Sweden from the top, and boasts a year-round ski slope. In addition, they really do make the most of available space; many entrances to bars and restaurants were below street level, with steps descending to what would be basement level, but boasted high windows still.

Other local sights

Aside from Nyhavn, another of the city's main sights is the Church of our Saviour Tower, which gets more narrow the further up you head, with a good portion of the climb on the exterior of the building. Unfortunately, due to the morning's rain, it was closed when we visited, so as we strolled back through the centre, we ducked into the 17th-century Round Tower instead. We got impressive views of the city from the viewing platform at the top, and had fun inside the Greek stonewashed-style interior attempting to snap funny panorama pics.

All in all, the trip was a thoroughly enjoyable return to international travel, and has me itching for my next break. Everything is changing so quickly with travel rules and regulations though, so I would advise not booking too far in advance, and doing your research in relation to the pandemic before committing to the trip.

*Please note, all Covid information was correct at the time of publication.

Turning a staycation into a vacation... and other things to do in the Scottish Highlands

2021 is all about the staycation. The travel companies know it, and we know it. Cornwall's holiday homes, hotels and hostels were 98% booked up for this summer as of April 2021, according to Cornwall Live, while the Peak District has had a huge increase in visitors this year, according to ITV. However, staycationing may not always feel like the ‘vacation’ we crave. Be it the weather, the similar culture, listening to people speak the same language you hear in the (home) office everyday…

Just across the border, Scotland awaits. Technically, I left my home country of England, but I thankfully didn't have to pay through my nose for the privilege of having a swab stuck up there. I made sure I incorporated many aspects of a vacation into this staycation though, so I truly feel like I’ve been ‘away’.

A beach in the Highlands (yes, really!)

I've previously staycationed in Edinburgh, Scotland, so although I'm currently doing my best J K Rowling impression and writing this piece in the Scottish capital – with a mention of the famed boy wizard thrown in for good measure – I'm offering a new angle to hero the Scottish Highlands aspects of this trip. Although this piece does feature a few Edinburgh anecdotes, for a more Edinburgh-based piece, you can click here.

So, here we go, here's how to really staycation like you're on a foreign vacation...

Tap into what ignites your holiday fire

Is it an adventurous escapade? An all-inclusive blissful break? For me, solo travel truly gives me that sense of travel and adventure – though usually I'm headed to medinas in Morocco or white-sand beaches in Cuba. A little less warm, but just as beautiful, an escape to the Highlands offers mountains, waterfalls and gorgeous scenery galore, just like Morocco; however, the choice of tipple is whisky instead of Cuba's rum. I joined a day tour, instead of my usual week-long group tour, and it was brilliant. It sounds silly to say, but apart from my trip to Loch Lomond where I actively sought out solitude to write, solo travelling isn’t usually a lonely experience. You meet people alllll the time. However, unlike pre-Covid, there was little to no mingling between groups on this tour, which made for a more solitary experience for solo travellers – something I also learned living in Sydney last year. Blaaaaady Covid.

A view from the tour bus

It's not all wandering around gorgeous places in your own world though. Yes, while solo travel usually meant making new friends, in the age of staycations, it might mean bumping into your existing ones instead! Back down in Edinburgh, it seemed as though everyone had the same England-to-Scotland idea as I met up with two friends and their travel companions; one to climb Arthur's Seat and another for a morning smoothie at Hula.

Top of Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh

Stick to your travel routine

My pre-travel routine always included grabbing a magazine and a few snacks from WHSmiths – though usually at an airport instead of a train station. I made sure I did the very same at Kings Cross.

Once in Scotland itself, another non-Highlands-and-actually-Edinburgh experience (don’t worry, I’m getting to Highlands content in the next paragraph!) was hopping aboard a sightseeing bus. I've lost count it how many of these I've done in various cities, but I find them so helpful in getting my bearings, travelling between the main tourist sights, and gaining some insight into the city's history and culture.

Lunch stop views in Mallaig

Downing an ice-cold lemonade is another act that just gives me the holiday feels. I ensured to keep up the tradition, accompanied by a fish and chips, in Mallaig, while overlooking the harbour. I also spent some time there overlooking the gorgeous loch, under the bright blue sky. You'd be forgiven for thinking we were in Switzerland there. Actually, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in Switzerland, or Iceland for that matter, anywhere in the Scottish Highlands! The White House, Glencoe (its actual postal address) gave me major Vik vibes.

The White House, Glencoe

Try the local food and drink

Food is such an important part of travel culture, and trying new dishes will really feel like you're away from home. While Scotland is still in the UK, there are some different culinary offerings you can get your teeth into, including black pudding, haggis, shortbread, single malt whisky, gin... In the town of Pitlochry, you'll find a sweet shop near the main public car park that serves multicoloured rainbow ice cream (I can hear the influencers flocking already!) and whiskey ice cream, made using real, local whiskey.

Pitlochry

Chat to people

Engaging with locals is another huge part of travel, and in the Highlands, there's no language barrier... well, not a huge one. Fun fact: once you reach the roads just outside Callander, Stirling, all the road signs are in both Gaelic and English. But yes, back to the main point; although the interaction between you and other travellers may be at a minimum during these Covid times, I've honestly never met more helpful staff, tour guides, waiters and waitresses! These service people are a wealth of knowledge. A stop at an Edinburgh gin shop led to a delicious dinner at Maki and Ramen, where I ate both maki and ramen. The sales attendant in the gin shop recommended it.

Back in the Highlands, I learned so much about the Scottish clans, English-Scottish history (FYI, Scone Palace and the stone of Scone is pronounced ‘Scoone’, offering a whole new dynamic to the scone/scone debate) and little local facts from the guide, such as the existence of request-only train stops. The guide also provided little language insights, for example, 'inver' means 'flowing into', i.e. Inverness means flowing into the Loch Ness.

The tour featured live commentary, punctuated with various Scottish music. My two favourites were listening to Skyfall, after venturing through the other-worldly landscape where James Bond stays with M towards the end of the eponymous film and, after seeing the famed Hogwarts Express viaduct, which is actually called Glenfinnan Viaduct, we listened to music composed for the Harry Potter films. It really felt like we were in a movie, travelling through those landscapes, listening to that music.

Jacobite steam train crossing Glenfinnan Viaduct

Final word

Right, so a big elephant in the room to conclude this piece: UK staycations and the weather. Now, of course, I would love to travel somewhere with guaranteed weather; however, Scotland showed UP on this trip. Not one drop of rain graced my head and it was mostly sunny throughout. Glencoe was notoriously a moody grey, but we got the benefit of seeing two rainbows without rain, so I'll take it. Overall, a fabulous trip, and I cannot wait to return!

Seeking serenity... and other things to do in Byron Bay, Australia

Peppered with palm trees, whitewashed wood-panelled shops and restaurants, and twinkling fairy lights come evening, Byron Bay is the ultimate beachside escape. It's easy to see why everyone raves about this place, and why a few celebrities have even made this place their home (shout out to my future husband, Zac Efron, and also one of the Hemsworth brothers) - I fell for its charms almost instantly.

Boasting a chilled, beachside town vibe, it's the kind of place where you would enjoy a proper bouji brunch, but barefaced of makeup and in flip flops. Amidst a plethora of long weekends (and big changes - one for another blog post coming soon), I booked a week away to Byron Bay, a 10-hour drive or 90-minute flight, up the coast from Sydney, near the Queensland/NSW border.

Thanks to its location, it enjoys warmer climes than Sydney and, although you'll likely feel relaxed the moment you step off the plane at Ballina Airport, or out of the car, here are a few tips to really capitalise on the feeling and achieve optimum zen.

Choose your base wisely

Due to booking, cancelling and rebooking of our accommodation (this COVID pandemic is synonymous with constant changes, hey), we ended up booking two different AirBnbs for our time in Byron. The first three nights were spent at Beachfront Apartments, mere metres from the Main Beach. The location was perfect: we could amble to the beach, to the Aldi for supplies, and our designated driver for the trip could enjoy as many drinks as she wanted as it was barely a 10-minute walk back to our apartment from most restaurants. One morning really epitomised our relaxation: I went for a morning run back and forth along the coast, followed by a cooked breakfast on the patio with a view of the sea, then went for a walk on the Main Beach "just to get my toes wet", and was treated to a show of a few dolphins playing in the water! Bliss.

Our second base was an absolutely gorgeous AirBnB, All About Byron, about 15 minutes' walk inland - I can't rave about this place enough. Adorned with bamboo shoots, Buddha statues and boasting our very own hot tub, I felt like I'd stepped into a Balinese retreat. Our host was brilliant too - easily and quickly contactable when needed. We spent many an hour in the hot tub, trying not to nap in the water when we weren't chatting or drinking (or stepping out for a smorgasbord of snacks) - it was so relaxing.

Relaxed yet fulfilling activities

While we graced the beach every day of our stay and didn't plan much, we made sure to still make the most of our time.

One of the few plans we did make was a 90-minute sunrise horse ride through the forest and onto the beach with Zephyr Horses. I hadn't ridden a horse since a child, and even then it was guided by a professional who walked the horse around. This time, I was in control; we were taught simple commands, and we were (thankfully) on horses used to carrying amateurs. The experience was absolutely incredible; I felt like a real cowgirl, more so when we got the horses to trot, and when we had to climb up and down steps with nothing but our balance and new skills to keep us on the horse. At one point, the sea was to my right, there was a rainbow to my left and mountains in front... it was magical.

Another activity that you can't miss in Byron is casting a look over the area from the lofty heights of the Cape Byron Lighthouse, which offers 360-degree vistas of the sea and mountains. You can either walk or drive up (parking is $4-$8) and spend time just soaking up the incredible views. We even saw dolphins and whales as we looked out to sea!

Although Main Beach was great, our favourite was just on the other side: Wategos Beach. Here, you have a full view of the mountains, you’re surrounded by picturesque green hills, and there are trees for respite from the sun. It is well worth the quest to find parking (and a hardy quest it is). The water is pretty shallow a fair bit out, so sit back (or stand in) and enjoy as the waves wash over. You might even see local wildlife - no, not whales, dolphins or horses again: the humble bush turkey! He/she came over to us, unbeknownst to us, until he clawed my housemate (eeek!) and then we watched him claw through peoples belongings until chased away.

We also ventured 20 minutes north of Byron Bay to the even more bohemian town of Brunswick Heads. We spent a few hours by the lovely lake surrounded by towering trees, where you can paddleboard or boat around, or make like us, and just chill on the side with a pastry from Bruns Bakery.

Eat really well

Now, I tell ya, this is something we truly mastered in Byron Bay. From our first evening dining on fancy fish and chips (sweet potato fries and Hoki) from the lauded Fishheads and desserts from the 24-hour bakery, Byron Bay Hot Bread, we sure as hell started as we meant to go on:

Three Blue Ducks - this rustic eatery sits on a farm - The Farm, actually - and serves delicious farm-to-plate fare. My flatmate had "the best green curry of [her] life" here, while my cocktail and platter went down pretty well too. After, be sure to have a stroll past the pigs, bees and other animals (and the gelato stall).

The Balcony - on a Sunday, The Balcony, a beautiful two-story, whitewashed wood number with, you guessed it, a balcony, holds Drag and Dine. The drag show comprises one act who does three or four sets, and this time around, a prize giveaway won by my flatmates (and then we promptly had my caption stolen by the restaurant's official Instagram!) My favourite part, however, was the food; in fact, it was one of my favourite meals of the trip. I had the softest trout, with the crispiest skin, on a bed of greens, drizzled with a delicious sesame-based sauce. Divine AND healthy. The cocktails were pretty good too.

Miss Margarita - speaking of cocktails, Miss Margarita had a brilliant list, playing host to my favourite fruit, like mango and watermelon, in martinis, mojitos and, of course, margaritas. The food was flavoursome, with a signature Mexican kick.

Bayleaf - a renowned cafe in Byron, we headed to Bayleaf for breakfast one morning. Their dishes are a tasty work of art, and even the humble scrambled eggs on toast looked so pretty, cooked into a swirly design. I even had an iced coffee! Who have I become?!

The General Store - another celebrated cafe in Byron. The team put emphasis on health, with ingredients like acai and coconut water taking pride of place on the menu frequently. I opted for a post-breakfast smoothie, which was as healthy and delicious as it was filling. What most intrigued me though was the way they announced your order was ready: "thanks, ‘Name’" each and every time. How very polite!

The Mez Club - a vision both in and out. Between the whitewashed exterior, curved archways, cushions and intricate lampshades, it felt like a cross between a Greek and Moroccan taverna. It's all about sharing plates here, and boy, was the food good. I tried oysters for the first time here (loved them), had THE softest lamb ever, delicious ravioli, gorgeous crisp potatoes, warm bread, and to follow, churros. The innovative cocktails are ones to savour too… though I’m not too sure about the one featuring avo.

I am so glad Byron Bay lived up to the hype; it was a place I wanted to visit since I first visited Sydney in 2018, well before I made it my home. I can’t wait to one day return with my mum - it is very much her vibe.

Being in a pandemic lockdown... and other things to do in the Blue Mountains, Australia

What a weird year 2020 has been so far - and it’s only the beginning of April! Personally, I made the big decision to move to Sydney for the year, but obviously, I’m not the only one in a brand-new situation; thanks to Covid-19, we’re all going through an adjustment period, and a very steep learning curve, whether at home, or on the other side of the world.

Thanks to a dear friend I met in Morocco, I am now currently experiencing lockdown from Australia’s Blue Mountains (there’s a reason I wax lyrical about joining travel tours when travelling solo!) I am a city girl at heart and while I love my place in central Sydney, there’s a lot more open space here, whether you stay at home, or go for the once-daily sanctioned walks (while practising social distancing, of course). There are many towns within the Blue Mountains National Park - so-called due to the vapour that’s given off by the gum trees - but wherever you’re based, there is plenty space to roam while adhering to government advice. I can’t stress how much time ‘in the green’ has changed my mindset in a short time during this lockdown; I know I am lucky to have this option, and I am so incredibly grateful. I urge people to seek out fresh air too, where possible, safe for themselves and others, and within your country’s restrictions.

There are a few things keeping me busy during the lockdown, and while some are specific to this period of time, or the area I’m staying in, others are also relevant if you choose to visit the Blue Mountains after this pandemic is over.

Take in (some of) the local sights

I’ve been to the Blue Mountains once before, visiting the waterfalls and the famed Three Sisters, which of course isn’t appropriate during the current climate. However, within walking distance, we have two parks, both abundant in space and the Mountain’s characteristic tree-laden paths. Similarly, a noted cemetery lies pretty close by too, and while seemingly a little morbid, is actually pretty fascinating for a walk, much like The Cimitero Monumentale in Milan.

Go on a bear hunt

I won’t lie, when my friend’s mum waved the two of us off on a walk with a “look out for the bears”, I almost $@#t myself! Much like the drop bear fable, there was nothing to worry about: during the lockdown, people in the local area are placing teddy bears and other stuffed toys at the window for children, and children at heart, to spot on their daily walks. What I did have to watch out for is the cars - there are no curbs or pavements here!

Go on a bushwalk

The National Park is beautiful and, as long as you have Google Maps or a local with you (from your household right now obvs), you (probably) won’t get lost. Spend a few hours really socially distancing from the world, walking through the bush, stopping to admire the trees below - wear good shoes though, as the hospitals currently have bigger fish to fry than a broken ankle! Sitting down on your walks isn’t allowed at the moment, but lookouts are a great spot to sit and reflect once this is all over.

Birdwatch

Two close friends of mine are avid bird watchers, and I never really understood the appeal until now. There really is something magical about listening to bird calls as you wake up, relax or WFH. There is a plethora of wild birdlife here, including cockatoos (pretty, but boy, are their squawks loud), rainbow lorikeets and crimson rosellas.

Recognise the silver lining

Whether you’re in London, Sydney or the Blue Mountains, this is one you can do from anywhere: recognise the positives, no matter how hard this whole situation gets. Most of us have a home and our health, and apart from those essential and front-line workers, our duty is just to stay home. Yes, many of us are facing issues with job security, but we can seek comfort and advice from those in the same situation. Use this time to keep smiling at the little things, from the buzz of a home workout to the buzz of homemade cocktails. I’m also currently buzzed off being able to still watch EastEnders, thanks to BBC UKTV…

And once lockdown is over…

There’s a whole world out there! I was lucky enough to return to the Mountains a few months after writing this piece, and indulged in all the bits I missed during Autumn; find out more here.

Stay safe and follow government advice. Keep up-to-date here (UK) and here (Australia).

Admiring amazing architecture... and other things to do in Seville, Spain

From the moment you enter many of Seville's hotels, with their imposing wooden doors that lead to a pretty internal courtyard or thoroughfare before you even reach the main door, the city's beauty is inescapable. Wander the streets for only a few moments, and you're pretty likely to stumble across (maybe literally - hello, cobblestones) sweeping arches, intricate architecture and bold colours, shaded by pretty palm and orange trees. One of the most beautiful cities I've been to for sure, with striking elements reminiscent of Cuba and Morocco. The architecture is predominantly Moorish and Gothic, with a strong Christian and Islamic influences, so those similarities make a lot of sense.

Royal Alcazar

If you've got a long weekend upcoming, or just want a little mini-break, Seville is the one. We spent just two full days in the city, and got loads done - everything is within an easy walking distance of one another, especially if you stay near the centre; in fact, the only transport you need is an airport transfer (we used Welcome Pick Ups; their drivers were so friendly and very punctual). We stayed at El Escondite de Maria (its decor, service and location was unbeatable), near the Metropol Parasol, and the furthest out we walked to a landmark was 40 minutes. So, grab your flight and hotel, and tick these beauties off your list: 

Cathedrals

Of course, a visit to the city's eponymous cathedral is essential. UNESCO-listed Seville Cathedral is like a signpost when walking in the city; we passed it countless times in our 48 hours. Upon arrival to the first landmark of our visit, we queued, drinking in its beautiful, intricate exterior while we waited. Once inside, it was just as impressive - so huge and beautiful with impressive pillars, and ceiling architecture. It is also home to the Giralda Tower, which boasts fantastic views of the city. Unfortunately, the tower, and roof tour, was sold out in English by the time we arrived (midday) and you can't do it without a guide, so it's best to buy tickets beforehand.

Area outside the cathedral

Along one side of the cathedral is the Patio de las Naranjas, which is a beautiful area lined with the city's famous orange trees, fruitful even in November. We tried some vino de naranja - orange wine - at a tapas bar-restaurant called La Moderna, a four-minute walk from this area. Boyyyyy, was it sweet! The portion sizes of the tapas at this spot were generous, especially the patatas bravas and seafood, and so tasty.

Your cathedral ticket also affords you a free trip to Iglesia del Salvador - do NOT skip this one. Formally a mosque, now a church, personally, I thought it was more gorgeous than Seville Cathedral. A bright pink exterior leads to the most breathtaking gold, intricate pieces of artwork and sculptures on the inside, stretching high up into the fantastic frescoed ceilings. Maybe it was just because of the time of day we visited, but the light streams through the stained glass, showering rainbows all over the place - I was awestruck.

Palaces

The Royal Alcazar, the oldest used palace in Europe, built in the 14th century, is one of the city’s main attractions. It's opposite the cathedral and this is one I definitely recommend pre-booking as the queues can be long, however, sooo worth it. Get ready to get lost amidst sprawling gardens, with landscaped, maze-style bushes, palm trees and fountains, fantastic bold colours in the walls and stone, intricate ceramics and mosaics, breathtaking artwork, stunning frescos, and so much more. My Morocco comparison is even more valid here, as there was an area literally the spitting image of my hotel in Chefchaouen.

Now, not really a palace but I've put it under this category because, MY GOD, it deserves it: Plaza de España was like being in another world. It’s like a little Venice, with pretty bridges and boats sailing down the water, mixed with Montmartre-Paris vibes, thanks to the pretty streetlights, each adorned with unique ceramic tiles, and, also, classically Spanish with live music and outdoor flamenco shows peppering the area - an elite take on our street performers, if you will. It was my favourite spot in the whole city.

Modern structures

While Seville is steeped in historical architecture, there are more modern gems, too, namely the Metropol Parasol. The highest wooden structure in the world, it is also a sight to behold from street level. However, its criss-cross design truly unveils itself when you get to the top: it’s like a mini-city of intertwining walkways, with stunning city views to boot. After you're done wandering this marvel and getting selfies galore, treat yourself to sangria and tapas (we went for Spanish omelette, and started what ended up being an intense nine-egg day for us both) - both were delicious here, and served with a side of cool rooftop views.

Other buildings

Some buildings here aren't about what they look like - though a stroll through the colourful Santa Cruz area (Jewish Quarter) by the cathedral and Alcazar defo is - it's what you can do inside them: eat and drink! On our first night, we went to a traditional local tapas bar, Los Coloniales, where we ate like the locals - standing and eating, and chatting at the bar, like we may have a pint in an English pub. It was so fast-paced, and we were surrounded by Spanish speakers. We learned you don't need to form an orderly queue and press your stomach or chest against the bar to get served either, which is great.

Another dining spot we visited was Taberna La Subasta, where we dined alfresco in the middle of November, thanks to the heaters; there's just something about eating outside that reinforces holiday vibes, amiright? The paella here was so tasty, and the sangria more so. However, the most lethal sangria of the lot was the one we had at The Second Room - there were at least four different types of alcohol along with the fruit and wine, including Cointreau and vodka. Also, if you get the time, check out El Rinconillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville. However, it's best to go in the day and it is teeming with people come evening.

Have you stayed longer in Seville? What other recommendations do you have?

Gorging on pizza and seafood... and other things to do in Naples, Italy

Central Naples has fast become one of Italy’s most up-and-coming destinations, thanks to its great location near some of the country’s best historical gems and its fantastic foodie credentials.

Many head here for the authentic feel of the city; personally, I did find it a little sketchy by the main central station, especially at night, but there is a police presence and the positives far outweigh the negatives. So, if you’re thinking of following your stomach to Napoli, be sure to taste… I mean tick… these off your list.

Food

Home of the eponymous Neapolitan pizza, I had slices aplenty of Italy’s most famous export. Of course, due to my cheese hatred, I opted for my favourite marinara instead (cheeseless, with tomato, herbs and garlic) and Naples bought a plethora of variations; with anchovies was an interesting but strangely delicious one.

Naples is ideally located along the coast and, my God, the mussels were incredible - pretty much on par with the ones I had in Oslo. While walking along the coast, we actually spotted mussels being picked straight from the water by locals and local restaurant staff, like nature intended it, eh?

Local sights

On this same walk, we made a beeline for the local sights, namely the Castel Nuevo (from where we watched the mussels being picked) and the Ovo Castle. Both are really cool fortresses you can explore to transport yourself back in time - and the latter is close to a stop for the City Sightseeing bus, which we all know I am a sucker for. The bus takes you high into the hillside and provides some fantastic views of Vesuvius as you cruise back down.

Another local site is the Catacombs of San Gennaro. So. damn. cool. It takes a little while to get to from the centre of the city, but so worth it. When you go inside you can see where people were baptised, confirmed and buried - which were pretty close to each other - and literally stand in the exact places they stood. It’s like being in a creepy cave, with body shelves; I loved it.

Day trips

Naples is ideally located for a plethora of day trips, with great train connections, and we took FULL advantage. The postcard-perfect hilltop peninsula of Sorrento is around an hour’s train ride away and is exactly what you’d expect from an Italian seaside town; cobblestone streets lead to gorgeous churches, hidden pathways open up onto breathtaking sea views. As is a reoccurring theme with literally nearly every place I travel to (I wish I had originally started taking photos, as I could be managing a banging Insta gimmick right now), we saw a wedding and really, I couldn’t imagine a more beautiful setting. Make your way down to the beach (many are managed by hotels, but you can access them for a small fee) to get in the proper holiday spirit.

We twinned our day to Sorrento with a coach ride along the Amalfi Coast, which was one of the most beautiful drives EVER. The waters seemed endless, and the horizon so far away. More and more lush green mountainsides came into view at every turn, and at some points, it felt as if we were hovering above the ocean. The specific coach we chose was, all in all, about a three-hour round trip (with a stop for pizza in a quaint town, of course). We went early afternoon, but I would highly recommend one a little earlier, so you can have more exploring time.

For the history buffs among you, another great pairing is a trip to Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii. We chose to visit Vesuvius in the morning - again, hop on the same direct train -, which boasted incredible views of the Bay of Naples from the (almost - I’ve got asthma, okay?) top, stop for the most gorgeous ravioli ever, then moved on to Pompeii. The irony of seeing the crater of the former so closely, then exploring the devastation it wreaked on the latter, was not lost. Mount Vesuvius was definitely up there with the hiking I enjoyed, and ranked between the mountains in Chefchaeoun and Barcelona in terms of views for me. It was probably a little harder than Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh, so not too bad.

Visiting Pompeii is such a unique experience; again, like the catacombs, you literally walk in the footsteps of people from a time past. Like a few spots in Amsterdam, we learned about the events of that night in Pompeii in such detail that to see the place before my eyes was pretty sobering. You can literally walk into what was the equivalent of someone’s living room, and actually see casts of actual bones in the position they, well, died in (eeeeek). Morbid, but pretty damn fascinating.

Final word

All in all, I’d say everyone should visit Naples once - even if for the food alone. However, not something I’d often say, but in my opinion, perhaps it serves as more of a base to take trips out from, like we did, or conversely, a great place to day trip to, if you’re staying in another nearby coastal town.

Culture, cafes... and other things to do in Amsterdam, The Netherlands

In the last 10 years, I've visited Amsterdam twice - once in 2015, again in 2023. This blog posts details elements and recommendations from both visits. 

Amsterdam is a city where you can have a city break as hedonistic or wholesome as you like. With an abundance of museums, pretty canals, and a sobering history, side by side with cafes selling weed, sex museums, and more, it really is a tale of two halves.

Churches

While not everyone is religious, there’s no arguing with the beauty of churches - or most religious buildings, to be honest. Amsterdam is no exception and its most famed is the 17th-century Westerkirk. With its towering spire, it’s pretty hard to miss… as are the queues to the Anne Frank Haus next door. A great idea to go explore this beauty is to travel with others and take turns visiting the church next door, while some wait in the queue. Although the architecture was fabulous, I was most impressed by the candle holder in the shape of a bush; a literal burning bush. Be wary of the early closing times though.

Museums

As mentioned, next door is the Anne Frank Haus and an absolute must-visit in Amsterdam. Like many others who went to school in England, I learned in great detail about the 13 year old and the horrendous things her family and community went through, but it was really something else to see the actual house in person. The tiny corridors, the dark rooms, everything - it was really sobering. You can see the diary itself when you head downstairs to the artefact section of the museum.

Rijksmuseum is another one to tick off. I was lucky enough to visit the first time when the big ‘I am Amsterdam’ sign still sat outside and I got the obligatory pic after strolling the spellbinding paintings. From Rembrandt’s grand canvases to cool installations (there’s one I really loved about sitting in a dark box after seeing something incredible so your brain can process the beauty), you can spend hours exploring. On my second visit, I didn’t have a lot of time to browse the museum itself, so just spending time outside the Rijksmuseum in its adjoining garden offered a lovely alternative. We sat there after a long walk, and we're among the many adults who joined kids playing in the fountains that trap you in the middle and you have to take your chance to escape...

Another great art museum is the Picasso Museum - it was another subject we studied intently at school, like Anne Frank’s diary, which was brought to life for me on this trip.

One of the things I like about Amsterdam is they seem to take away the taboo essence of certain topics, one of course being sex. The Sex Museum, moments from Central Station, takes a less salacious - though sometimes comical - look at sex throughout history and in various cultures. I can't say I'd want some of those curios in my house though!

Parks and canals

In front of the Picasso Museum is the sprawling Vondelpark, a great spot for a picnic or to catch your breath after a whirlwind sightseeing tour. Locals seem to come here at lunch, kids play frisbee - when we went in August, it was a picture-perfect summer spot.

In a similar vein, be sure to get on a boat around the city’s defining canals. On my first visit, we used the tour cruise as a sort of mode of transport, like I often do with sightseeing buses - get your bearings, but also use it as a great way to get from landmark to landmark from the hotel. You’ll learn a lot about the city, for example, why the buildings are slightly tilted and why they have cool hooks at the top.

Somehow on my 2023 trip, everything was just timed perfectly on our first day - from heading to a restaurant and nabbing table just as it got busy, to arriving for our tram moments before it arrived, all day long. The best win though was sauntering up to a boat tour, and despite being a public group tour, we were the only ones on it. With drinks included (white wine spritz, please!) we had a wonderful guided tour of the canals, as we lazed at the bow of the boat. An aside: our good timing ran out though when we arrived at the airport for our flight home and it was cancelled. What ensured was us trying to find a hotel and heading back into the city for our bonus day.

Cafes and restaurants

From alfresco eateries to the coffee shops, Amsterdam’s cafe culture is renowned. Some of the coffee shops simply sell (non alcoholic) drinks and a selection of weed, while others have board games, video games, and more.

Despite my day job, when it comes to restaurants abroad, I never know where to look! We visited pancake house Moak, and while I respect their marketing big time, the food was very disappointing. I had a much better spread of pancakes, delicious sides (hash brown, sausage, bacon), and drinks at Staring at Jacob - I highly recommend it. On a summer's day, set up shop alfresco by the canal.

I can be a bit of a snob when it comes to food halls - I find all the choice overwhelming (*whispers* and don't want to sit communally), but the Hawker centre culture in Singapore opened my mind to this approach to dining out. Foodhallen is a must visit if you're in Amsterdam. The food and cocktails are absolutely banging; I had one of the best tacos in my life here. 

Head to the rooftops

New to me on my 2023 visit was the A'Dam Lookout, a rooftop bar and swing, which opened in 2016. I had high hopes - pun intended. Word of warning, I don't recommend buying your ticket with drinks included, as the tokens offer very limited drinks, while there are much nicer options to buy on site.

The look out sits just behind Centraal Station, a quick (and free) ferry ride across the canal. You take a zoomy lift, with a light show, up to the top, where you can dine at the restaurant or head out alfresco to the bar… and the swing. This swing enables you to feel like you're flying above Amsterdam. I was petrified. I was on it for about 10 seconds LOL. Needed that big drink to steady my nerves after that. 

Take a stroll

Amsterdam is so pretty that, sometimes, there’s no need to have a plan; just stroll. On my 2016 trip, we stayed not too far from Dam Square, which while packed with tourist, is still a great spot to stroll through. We pretty much stumbled across the infamous Red Light District not too far from here and, it really isn’t as seedy as you’d think. In the evening August light, with the atmospheric red glow, families strolled through the area, commuters storming past, just like on any street. Come nightime, it’s like any raucous nightlife spot. Without demeaning these women, you could almost liken it to living Barbies in their boxes.

Just before you head home, don’t miss the daily Floating Flower Market, where you can buy a whole range of flora. The vendors will be happy to advise you on what you can and can’t carry back overseas.

Top tips for tourists... and other things to do in Cuba

What's the first thing you think of when you think of Cuba? Cigars? Salsa? Rum? Well, you'd be pretty accurate on all accounts here, but this island has so much more to offer.

However, as its technically a third-world, us Westerners may find it daunting to manoeuvre, particularly when travelling as a solo female. I chose to join a G Adventures tour, so had a great tour guide and group with whom to explore the various landscapes Cuba had to offer, including Havana, Trinidad, Viñales and Playa Larga, and boy did we explore. If you're thinking of touring the county on your own, with a mate, or joining a tour group, here are a few things you may want to know before you set off (after prepping your liver for all the rum cocktails, obvs).

The basics

Before you even set off, UK visitors need to purchase a tourist card, which works like a visa. This can be done at the embassy, or as I did, via this website. I was nervous to do so, despite it being recommended by a friend, but it is indeed totes legit. Another thing before you set off, which I can't recommend strongly enough, is to take out your spending money in cash to change into CUPs once you land; only certain cards will work at certain ATMs - something I learned the hard way, when it transpired that my bank card was not going to play ball. Thankfully, I was staying in a casa particular (a cross between a B&B and family home) that provided Wi-Fi in the mornings without the need to purchase a Wi-Fi card (more on that in a bit) and I was able to rely on the kindness of strangers - the host in my casa and a couple of the girls on my tour - and the bank of mum and dad to help me sort out the predicament. Within 24 hours, I had cash, but without them… well, who know what I would have done!

Speaking of money, Cuba is pretty affordable for the most part, but a big bulk of your money will go on bottled water (heat + being unable to drink from the taps makes "agua, por favor" your new fave sentence) and tips. The moment your ears hear the tinkling of a guitar, or your bladder tingles with the need to pee, get that coin purse out. Musicians rely on tips, as do the women who hand out toilet tissue outside the loo - and don't forget: do not flush your used loo roll down the toilet! It must go in the bin.

So, back to the Wi-Fi. Compared to the UK, the internet in Cuba isn't as widely accessible; Wi-Fi isn't a given at casas, and sometimes even hotels. On the most part, you have to purchase a Wi-Fi card, which is like a little scratchcard that gives you a username, password and length of internet time. You need to keep an eye out for signs indicating you are in a Wi-Fi zone, and then sign in on your browser (and not forget to sign out to preserve the time you're not using it). I chose not to buy one, only connecting three times in eight days for a half hour or so each, and enjoyed the time away from WhatsApp, Instagram and everything else in daily life - it was great!

Wining and dining

I heard mixed things about the food in Cuba before travelling, but I have to say, I was very pleasantly surprised. The benefit of having a local guide was that he was able to recommend and take us to great places. The seafood is fantastic -particularly grilled shrimp, which I first tried in a restaurant in Viñales overlooking the mountains, as was the mezze of traditional crab, lobster and fried fish we had in Trinidad; the chicken can be a bit hit and miss. Restaurant meals are well priced for those coming from the western world; you'll get decent meals for the equivalent of a little more than a tenner, if you don't land yourself in a tourist trap, however, our guide explained that often locals will be unable to afford to eat here, which I did find a little jarring. For breakfast, you can expect oodles of fresh fruit, omelette, and crepes.

Even better are the three little letters that spell r.u.m. The rum cocktails here are served with free poured alcohol, and you can ask for them to be topped up (for free) if the already triple or quadruple measures aren't enough for you. In most places, mojitos cost at 3 or 4 CUC (the equivalent of £2.50) - just 1 CUC more than water.

Accommodation

You have a choice when it comes to accommodation in Cuba; hotels/hostels or casa particulars, which run like a B&B, as well as being the family home. We stayed in different casas throughout our stay, giving us the opportunity to bond with different families and learn a little bit about local life in each town and city. Going as a big group, there was a 'main casa', which served as a drop-off and meet up point, then we were split up in pairs or groups of four all around the town. We had great hosts who went out of their way to help us and be of assistance, particularly the owner of my first homestay in Havana and the wonderful host in Viñales, who brought us mango juice on her roof to look over a neighbouring vineyard and we chatted in the little Spanish and the lot of hand gestures that me and my roomie could muster.

Landscapes

Our trip took us to Havana, Viñales, Cayo Levisa, Playa Larga, Bay of Pigs and Trinidad with a few more stops along the way. Each was very different from one another. In Havana, we wandered around the famed Art Deco streets that seemed reminiscent of a time past, with a sprinkle of Beverley Hills style about it; the buildings are so ornate and vibrant. We hopped on both a bus tour and vintage car tour, which I highly recommend. You can choose to tour the inner or outer city (we chose the latter) and cruise in style as you admire the city's landmarks, with music playing, and learn a little more about their history. Our driver was so friendly, knowledgeable and also an ace photographer. We saw Cuba's Jesus statue, which overlooks the city from the Casablanca area, and the fort, amongst other stops. As a group, we partook in a walking tour around Havana’s four main squares, but I also got the chance to peruse the fantastic local art at Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes de La Habana, peruse the José Martí Memorial and pass Revolution Square.

Trinidad is just as vibrant as Havana, perhaps even more so, with larger casas and a real laid-back vibe. We enjoyed a really cool evening on one night of our stay, listening to music and putting our newly acquired salsa skills to use in the amphitheatre-style main square, following our private lesson with a former ballet dancer on the terrace of the main Trinidad casa earlier that afternoon. We then had a proper night out at a Disco Ayala, which was legit a club in a cave, that played both Cuban and international music. However, a quick drunken Uber was not an option at 3am; we were just grateful that one of the girls had GPS…. My roomie and I were defo still drunk in the morning as we wolfed down our huge (and lovingly prepped) breakfast and set forth to swim in the mountainous waterfall of El Cubano national park.

Viñales brought a completely different, more rural landscape, backed by mountains, with ample vineyards and farms growing fruit. On our second day here, we took a day trip to Cayo Levisa and, my God, it was one of the most beautiful beaches I have been on! From the fine white sands and interlinked wooden huts to the swaying palms and cool clear waters, we were in paradise! We were welcomed off the boat with drinks and spent the day swimming, sleeping, sunbathing, and drinking or snorkelling. Another day, another beach the following day - one of only two protected sites in Cuba, the infamous Bay of Pigs - and yet again, the terrain differed to a more rocky swampland.

Understanding the way of life

It's not just the gorgeous weather that is warm in Cuba; it's the people and their way of life. While we may have got a specific, more tourist view of the country, we did get to dabble in a few more 'local activities'. In Viñales, we had an informal Spanish lesson, where along with the regular tourist phrases were learned two more Cuban terms: ‘ultimo’, which you use to find out who is last in the queue (especially important in case the queue is in the direct sun and people are seeking the shade) and ‘mangito’ (or for females, ‘mangita’). This word derives from mango and basically means ‘fit AF’ - yeah, we used this word a lot as a group...

Also whilst here, we visited a tobacco farm, learned how farmers grow the tobacco, and how they roll it to create 100% handmade cigars. They told us about dipping it in honey to moisten it and also get a better taste, and we sat, smoked and had a proper chilled time. We took our new-found Cuban habit up a notch in Playa Larga, sitting under atmospheric lighting at the beach at night, after enjoying a fabulous dinner, and smoked, drank, chatted and listened to music with our toes in the sand (and our bods covered with mozzie spray).

Something that truly struck me about Cuba is their laws surrounding animals. In fact, we were told how the farmers aren't allowed to kill their own animals, and how, if an animal dies in an accident, the police are called, the same way as a person. Hefty fines and punishments are imposed. Dogs, which are loving and not at all vicious roam about and, in Fusterlandia Park (which was built by José Fuster across 20 years, starting with his home then extending across the neighbourhood for his community), there was quite the domestic tortoise who approached people for head strokes.

Now, I’ve managed to get through the whole post without really mentioning anything to do with the politics of the country or the Revolution; this is intentional. Of course, we were shown one point of view throughout the tour, and it was super interesting to learn about. I came away from my trip with lots of questions and lots of food for thought. What was also pretty interesting is that in my stopover at Miami airport, between Cuba and New York, I met a guy whose mum was Cuban, but left during the Revolution - it was quite enlightening to hear another point of view then, too.

All in all, Cuba was very different to the daily life I am used to, and that’s why I loved it. Although we did a lot, I weirdly felt really well rested - probably was all the rum in my veins.

Biting the Big Apple without going broke... and other things to do in Manhattan, New York

The city of New York is synonymous with almost every romantic comedy, hit TV show and even a few books that I devoured growing up; the Big Apple had been on my must-travel-to list for a while. With time taken off for another trip that I didn’t end up booking, plus £250 flights, this May was finally my time to set foot in a city I had already fallen in love with.   

Now, it goes without saying that New York is expensiiiiive. I’ve heard this about many countries, for example, Oslo and Iceland, and just minimised the cost in certain ways to make it doable, but New York really is all about the dollar bills, yo. This trip was a birthday trip with my ma, so we didn’t necessarily adhere to the most cost-effective solutions when sightseeing or dining, but I definitely identified a few ways to enjoy the city to the max, without fully breaking the bank - whether we adhered to them or not.

Travel

So, we travelled with Norwegian airlines - they came recommended by a few people, but they are a budget airline. Their tickets were cheap and cheerful, and to be honest, flying with them (me one way, my mum both ways), they were decent, but it is worth noting a few things. First things first, make sure you are completely within your baggage weight and measurements for both your carry on and hold luggage - they will charge yo’ butt for even the slightest scale tilt, so it’s best to avoid any fees. Secondly, don’t bother pre-ordering food; it’s definitely not worth £25, especially the veggie option. However, they have a selection of meals and snacks onboard that are more purse-friendly (like, not ground costs, but decent) and also, just better.  

After some airport shenanigans - my mum was flying in from home, while I was flying over from Cuba - we exited the airport, Times Square-bound. Here, we met a taxi driver who, for whatever reason, wasn’t in the main taxi queue, which we found strange. He quoted us NINETY DOLLARS plus taxes and tolls to take us, ranting on how Uber was cheaper. Do not fall for this - head on over to the taxi rank. This journey into the centre should cost around $60 (including taxes and tolls). We one-upped ourselves on the way back and went for an airport transfer that picked us up near Grand Central Station - that was cheap, comfortable and easy to get from a to b.    

Accommodation

We were pretty lucky with our accommodation; thanks to a hefty work discount, we stayed at Hotel Mela right off Times Square and Broadway (top tip: go down to the screen on the square for cheap on the day tickets). We even got an upgrade to a 16th-floor suite (accompanied by a cute fruit platter and personalised message)! Being so close to Times Square was absolutely incredible, and finally seeing the ball, though obvs not yet dropping, was amazing for me, as I’ve always wanted to see it drop on new years in person. This location also meant we walked EVERYWHERE, as most places in Midtown were within walking distance (there were definitely days where we must have walked around 80 blocks all in all). We had a plush living area with one- and two-seaters, where my mum curled up with her book when I went on my solo jaunts – it was like having our own apartment.

That said, being in central meant everything cost a small fortune. Room service was crazy expensive, but we treated ourselves to a delicious and huge breakfast our first morning, naturally. If I were to come back here and do it in my usual cost-effective way, Airbnb would most definitely be the way forward. On one of our days, we walked a few blocks east as we ambled towards Chelsea Market – the perfect place to spend a rainy afternoon; it’s indoors, has well priced food, and is kitsch yet cool, with its lights and wood aesthetic – and saw the ‘real-life’ Midtown and where people actually live if they’re not a celeb, but in this suburb. We used the High Line to walk back towards our hotel, finishing at Hudson Yards shopping centre, which was hugeee.   

Bright lights, big city: sightseeing

Of course, we started with our fave: a city sightseeing tour bus, covering the majority of downtown with one ticket. The app said the weather was going to be bad, but it was brilliantly sunny. We got some great intel about the suburb, I saw Gossip Girl filming locations (like the hospital Eric is in season 1, hahaha) and learned about the food rating system. We hopped off at the stop for the 9/11 Memorial Museum and…wow. The fountains are startling, glittering in the light as if like souls, and very symbolic and the museum itself is an incredible tribute. Hearing the voices of people who were related to those who lost their lives, seeing the massive room covered floor to ceiling in their images, the videos… it was incredibly powerful and moving.   

Next up, we walked through Battery Park, towards the Staten Island ferry terminal. Now, New Yorkers are so friendly and open, especially when they hear a British accent, but the closer we got to the ferry, the more people tried to sell tickets to us. Despite the flattery, don’t listen when these peeps say you can’t see the Statue of Liberty from the ferry. Yes, you won’t be stuck up close to it, or get off to climb up it, but you will get a pretty good view of the Lady for free. Ensure you are on the right side of the ferry when going towards Staten Island and on the left side as you return to Manhattan. On the way back, we hopped back on the sightseeing bus and saw the different quarters, plus some incredible artwork.

The next day, we headed towards Macy’s for a little peruse and, more importantly for me, we were on 34th Street! Miracle on 34th Street is one of my top two Christmas movies, and Cole’s is based on Macy’s. I could imagine myself sitting above one of the shops, just like Susan at the beginning of the film.

From Macy’s, you also get a pretty good view of the Empire State Building from ground level. Although the idea of climbing this iconic structure was attractive to me – mainly because of the whole Blair and Chuck engagement shiz in Gossip Girl - the sheer height of the building was not. However, I definitely wanted to do something that would scare me a little so decided on Top of the Rock at the Rockefeller Centre – many people, including the guide on our sightseeing bus the day, before say the view is better than from the Empire State. I bought a ticket online and then my mum and I went to explore the Rockefeller Centre for a bit – it was fab to see where the famous ice-rink and Christmas tree goes in winter – but when in there, we were advised that it was too foggy to see anything from the top. However, top tip, you can SWAP your ticket for a different time slot, so check the weather beforehand, so you can swap to a good slot. When I got up there the next day, the view was incredible! The lift is quick, but not stomach-flop-inducing. Weirdly, it wasn’t any windier or colder, and you can also opt to stay indoors.

Another great, cost-free way to spend an afternoon in the city is a stroll around Central Park – I did this with my headphones in and thoroughly enjoyed it – again feeling like I was in one of the films I love (also, as usual, I spotted a wedding shoot). I just did a couple of hours, but I definitely think you need a full day to do all the attractions and appreciate it fully.

Dining

I can’t dress this up: the majority of your money will go on food and tips at restaurants in Manhattan. On the evening of our second full day, we wandered over to the Met Life centre and had a great New York pizza… at New York prices. The fresh basil definitely made it though – it was up there with one of my favourite pizzas. A handful of mornings, we also made use of the diner a stone’s throw from our hotel; the breakfasts were huge and tasty, and the service good. Again, it felt like a proper American diner, with the coffee refills and all. On our last morning, we deviated to a different diner, but enjoyed our dishes just as much. I even had a cheeky Oreo milkshake.

I don’t want to close this post on a neggy note, so popping this before I go onto the best places to eat, but if you value your stomach or your wallet, do not, under any circumstances, eat in JFK Terminal 1 post-security. They aren’t allowed gas cookers, but they are allowed to commit daylight robbery apparently. At one of the restaurants, we fell hook line and sinker for the water on the table trick (bye $16.99 for two bottles of water) and the food… yeah, utter shite. $40-something worth of utter shite too. URGH.

A hidden gem (well, for me anyway; I legit didn’t know this was here) was the food court under Grand Central Station. Now, Grand Central Station was amazing as it is – again, I was Serena in GG, Mila Kunis in that film with the flash mobs – I bloody loved it. The grand ceiling, the chandeliers… remind me why my local tube station isn’t like this again? Anyyyyway, when you go downstairs to use the loo, you’ll find a whole new world (not in the actual loo though, obvs). We parked up at a gelato bar and enjoyed the creamiest, sweetest, most indulgent gelato – perhaps even more so than that I’ve had in Rome or Milan.

If you’re looking for well-priced food fairly close to the centre of Midtown, the Hell’s Kitchen area is the place to go. Just a few blocks west, you’ll find a plethora of cuisines. I had arguably the best fried chicken I’ve ever had at a Korean place; so good that little ol’ me had six drumsticks in one sitting. I couldn’t manage near that a few months before back in the UK when KFC were doing the nine buckets for a fiver.

So, there you have it; there are plenty free activities to do in the Big Apple and, with a few changes to your itinerary, you can actually make the most of the city’s landmarks without totally breaking the bank. While food and tips are defo the biggest expenditure, you can minimise it a bit by where you eat, and definitely where you stay. I will 100% return.