In the last 10 years, I've visited Amsterdam twice - once in 2015, again in 2023. This blog posts details elements and recommendations from both visits.
Amsterdam is a city where you can have a city break as hedonistic or wholesome as you like. With an abundance of museums, pretty canals, and a sobering history, side by side with cafes selling weed, sex museums, and more, it really is a tale of two halves.
Churches
While not everyone is religious, there’s no arguing with the beauty of churches - or most religious buildings, to be honest. Amsterdam is no exception and its most famed is the 17th-century Westerkirk. With its towering spire, it’s pretty hard to miss… as are the queues to the Anne Frank Haus next door. A great idea to go explore this beauty is to travel with others and take turns visiting the church next door, while some wait in the queue. Although the architecture was fabulous, I was most impressed by the candle holder in the shape of a bush; a literal burning bush. Be wary of the early closing times though.
Museums
As mentioned, next door is the Anne Frank Haus and an absolute must-visit in Amsterdam. Like many others who went to school in England, I learned in great detail about the 13 year old and the horrendous things her family and community went through, but it was really something else to see the actual house in person. The tiny corridors, the dark rooms, everything - it was really sobering. You can see the diary itself when you head downstairs to the artefact section of the museum.
Rijksmuseum is another one to tick off. I was lucky enough to visit the first time when the big ‘I am Amsterdam’ sign still sat outside and I got the obligatory pic after strolling the spellbinding paintings. From Rembrandt’s grand canvases to cool installations (there’s one I really loved about sitting in a dark box after seeing something incredible so your brain can process the beauty), you can spend hours exploring. On my second visit, I didn’t have a lot of time to browse the museum itself, so just spending time outside the Rijksmuseum in its adjoining garden offered a lovely alternative. We sat there after a long walk, and we're among the many adults who joined kids playing in the fountains that trap you in the middle and you have to take your chance to escape...
Another great art museum is the Picasso Museum - it was another subject we studied intently at school, like Anne Frank’s diary, which was brought to life for me on this trip.
One of the things I like about Amsterdam is they seem to take away the taboo essence of certain topics, one of course being sex. The Sex Museum, moments from Central Station, takes a less salacious - though sometimes comical - look at sex throughout history and in various cultures. I can't say I'd want some of those curios in my house though!
Parks and canals
In front of the Picasso Museum is the sprawling Vondelpark, a great spot for a picnic or to catch your breath after a whirlwind sightseeing tour. Locals seem to come here at lunch, kids play frisbee - when we went in August, it was a picture-perfect summer spot.
In a similar vein, be sure to get on a boat around the city’s defining canals. On my first visit, we used the tour cruise as a sort of mode of transport, like I often do with sightseeing buses - get your bearings, but also use it as a great way to get from landmark to landmark from the hotel. You’ll learn a lot about the city, for example, why the buildings are slightly tilted and why they have cool hooks at the top.
Somehow on my 2023 trip, everything was just timed perfectly on our first day - from heading to a restaurant and nabbing table just as it got busy, to arriving for our tram moments before it arrived, all day long. The best win though was sauntering up to a boat tour, and despite being a public group tour, we were the only ones on it. With drinks included (white wine spritz, please!) we had a wonderful guided tour of the canals, as we lazed at the bow of the boat. An aside: our good timing ran out though when we arrived at the airport for our flight home and it was cancelled. What ensured was us trying to find a hotel and heading back into the city for our bonus day.
Cafes and restaurants
From alfresco eateries to the coffee shops, Amsterdam’s cafe culture is renowned. Some of the coffee shops simply sell (non alcoholic) drinks and a selection of weed, while others have board games, video games, and more.
Despite my day job, when it comes to restaurants abroad, I never know where to look! We visited pancake house Moak, and while I respect their marketing big time, the food was very disappointing. I had a much better spread of pancakes, delicious sides (hash brown, sausage, bacon), and drinks at Staring at Jacob - I highly recommend it. On a summer's day, set up shop alfresco by the canal.
I can be a bit of a snob when it comes to food halls - I find all the choice overwhelming (*whispers* and don't want to sit communally), but the Hawker centre culture in Singapore opened my mind to this approach to dining out. Foodhallen is a must visit if you're in Amsterdam. The food and cocktails are absolutely banging; I had one of the best tacos in my life here.
Head to the rooftops
New to me on my 2023 visit was the A'Dam Lookout, a rooftop bar and swing, which opened in 2016. I had high hopes - pun intended. Word of warning, I don't recommend buying your ticket with drinks included, as the tokens offer very limited drinks, while there are much nicer options to buy on site.
The look out sits just behind Centraal Station, a quick (and free) ferry ride across the canal. You take a zoomy lift, with a light show, up to the top, where you can dine at the restaurant or head out alfresco to the bar… and the swing. This swing enables you to feel like you're flying above Amsterdam. I was petrified. I was on it for about 10 seconds LOL. Needed that big drink to steady my nerves after that.
Take a stroll
Amsterdam is so pretty that, sometimes, there’s no need to have a plan; just stroll. On my 2016 trip, we stayed not too far from Dam Square, which while packed with tourist, is still a great spot to stroll through. We pretty much stumbled across the infamous Red Light District not too far from here and, it really isn’t as seedy as you’d think. In the evening August light, with the atmospheric red glow, families strolled through the area, commuters storming past, just like on any street. Come nightime, it’s like any raucous nightlife spot. Without demeaning these women, you could almost liken it to living Barbies in their boxes.
Just before you head home, don’t miss the daily Floating Flower Market, where you can buy a whole range of flora. The vendors will be happy to advise you on what you can and can’t carry back overseas.