How to day trip to Europe... and other things to do in Brussels, Belgium

"I'm off to Europe for the weekend, dahhhling" sounds like something the Kim Ks of the world would say, right? But what if I said you could one up that with a day trip AND you could do the whole thing for less than £150? Yep, it is totally doable; all you need is a passport and a well-timed Eurostar sale and you're away.

Train travel lends itself more easily to day trips than flights do, and with the Eurostar, you've got direct trains to various locations across France, the Netherlands, and Belgium (and even more options if you’re happy to change). Eurostar often has sales where tickets are far cheaper than heading up north; I took advantage of this and opted for Brussels, as I had not yet been to Belgium.

Going to a new city for the day may seem quick, but you can pack a lot in without rushing - and you get all the fun of travel without the cost of a hotel or hassle of living out of a suitcase. Here's how to make the most of a day in Brussels (or elsewhere on the continent):

Choose your dates wisely

You'll be governed by the dates of the cheap tickets, but the earlier you book, the better choice you have; we were able to get the first train out and the last train in on a Saturday (which is just as well as my annual leave is spread pretty thin already…) We had such good experiences at both terminals: the staff at the Pret in the morning were super friendly and one even let me off the extra change for my water, so I didn't have to break a larger note, while the one in Brussels in the evening had pedal bikes to charge your phone and a football table to while away the waiting time.

Had we been less impulsive, we would have probably chosen a Saturday later on in the year; Brussels abounds with beautiful parks, such as Jubilee Park, Brussels Park and Elizabeth Park, and it would have been lovely to chill out with a picnic of sweet waffles, salty frites and beer in the warmer weather at one - or all - of them. However, no amount of on-off rain will hinder a Brit, no matter the time of year.

What to pack

I am guilty of pretty much always overpacking for my trips, prepared for all manner events that are unlikely to happen, but going for a day trip means just picking up a (small) backpack or handbag and heading out. Apart from the weather-appropriate gear, such as an umbrella, scarf and gloves, all you need is:

- Passport

- Eurostar tickets

- Money

- Oyster (or travel) card (for getting to and from Kings Cross in London)

- Headphones

- Lipstick (totes essential for me)

Getting around

It's so easy to get from Brussels Midi to the central station: there's a four-minute train or you can hop on the metro (via the ticket machine that has an English option and directions on how to navigate the interface above the screen) for a few stops to De Broukeer, and either change or walk for 10 minutes.

Those who have read my previous travel guide posts will know that I love a city sightseeing bus, and when you're doing a day trip they're an absolute no-brainer. For £20-something (it varies city to city for a 24-hour ticket), you can see the city's top landmarks on a whistle-stop tour, hopping off at the ones you wanna see a little closer, without having to faff about with public transport. All the while, you’ll be getting information through your personal headphones. In Brussels, there are two stops at the central station, one each for different tours. This is the only point where they cross over, so make sure you're on the right one if you don't want to do both lines (which we did easily and had plenty of time for other stuff, but this may not be everyone's cup of tea).

Food and drink

Image: Emily Jenkins

You can definitely do 'top line' Brussels in a day. Of course, you can't see and do everything the art nouveau capital of the world has to offer, but you can get a real taste for the city - something we did pretty literally. The sweet smell of waffles tempts from around the corner, and not in a whimsical way: the city literally smelt sweet AF in a lot of places we visited or streets we wandered down. Our afternoon pit stop was at the Waffle Factory near Grand Place, which was teeming with tourists and locals. I opted for a Brussels waffle with dark Belgian chocolate. It was DELICIOUS and strangely light for such an indulgence.

Earlier in the day, we stopped for lunch at Le Faucon Den Valk, a cosy pub-type joint with an open fireplace. Heeding the advice of some of my colleagues, I opted for mussels (alongside a hot choco) and my flatmate had the onion soup and a beer, and we were both happy with our choices. They weren't the best mussels I've had - this goes to Oslo - but they were pretty good.

Going back to the beer for a minute, the beer scene in Brussels is highly rated and for those who even just tolerate the stuff, it is essential to try on a day trip. Now, I'm not a beer drinker myself, but my housemate is, and we ventured into Poechenellekelder, the most kitsch cool beer house ever. Atmospherically lit, from the ceilings hung puppets, musical instruments, upside-down beer glasses and mannequins, with some tables made from old barrels. Each beer (and there are loads!) comes with its own uniquely styled glass - bog-standard pints this ain't. However, at €4 a pop for really good local beer (according to my flatmate), standard pint prices this is. Recommended is the Brugse Zot.

What to do

Hopping on and off the city sighting bus, we saw a fair bit. The city abounds with Horta-designed buildings, much like Barcelona has a strong Gaudi influence, which are lovely to admire. We hopped off at the European Parliament, where you can take a virtual selfie in the arena at the Visitor Centre, see original pieces of the Berlin Wall (but, ya know, in Belgium) and get as close to the EU as us UK folk can probably get for a while after March...

Ascend the Atomium for a unique bird's eye view of the city, and to observe Mini Europe from above, if you don’t have time to go in, and check out the Manneken-Pis (which is exactly what it sounds like). It's smaller than it looks like in pics and sits behind a small barrier, but is still major lols.

In the morning, and again in the evening, we stumbled across the Grand Place square with its gorgeous, gold-gilded buildings and Town Hall - they are an absolute must-see. Round off your day with a walk back to the Midi station, so you can experience the city by night, even if only for a short while. In the centre, the way the cobble-stone roads are lit with their overhanging street lights is pretty fairy-tale like, especially with the romantically, art nouveau buildings. On your way back to Brussels-Midi, you'll also pass through a more 'Hackney-esque' part of the city. Be sure to grab some frites for the walk home.

So, there you have it - a full day in Brussels! And, if you're not knackered (and live in London), you'll be back in London before your local pub closes. Shame about the beer here though, eh.

Admiring natural wonders... and other things to do in Reykjavik, Iceland

Spellbinding. Breathtaking. Epic. These grand words seem all too puny to describe the beauty of Iceland's landscapes. From the moment we disembarked the airport transfer bus in the centre of town (it’s an easy 45-minute drive, hella cheaper than getting a cab, and you catch it right outside the arrivals terminal) and walked to our Airbnb, the onslaught of snow set the tone instantly; this was going to be some sort of winter wonderland trip - and, boy, did Iceland deliver. Funnily enough though, apart from on this first evening, we had perfect weather. No snow fell in our three days, yet there was a thick, powder-soft blanket of the stuff wherever we went, sitting under clear blue skies all day long. 

From our short trip, we learned three things about Iceland and Reykjavik pretty quickly: firstly, everyone is so friendly! Regrettably, I didn't utter a word of Icelandic during my stay, as everyone speaks English, and the way they are... well, let's just say, you’ll hear a hell of a lot politer English on their streets than in London. Their laid-back attitude is probably owing to the fact that their whole country has 4% of the population that there is in our capital city alone.

The second thing we learned is that the whole country abounds with such #nofilter beauty and wonders - I genuinely think it’s the most naturally beautiful place I’ve ever been. Yes, everyone knows about the Northern Lights (more below) - and obvs I wanted to see them too - but there is so much more to discover, too.

The third is that, while money is always a bone of contention for visitors to Iceland, the cost isn’t as crazy as you’d imagine. Yes, it is expensive, but you can minimise a complete kamikaze of your bank balance and still get to soak up the country’s spectacles. It is advised to get any alcohol at the airport due to the crazy prices and when it comes to food, you can eat in on some nights (hence the Airbnb - self-catering!) There is a well-stocked 24-hour supermarket near Hallgrimskirkja where we stocked up on mixers, snacks and brekkie bits, and while it was (v roughly) about £40 for what would have been perhaps a £25 Tesco shop, we were prepared. You can swap out dishes too - a pack of bacon costs the equivalent of nearly a tenner, while Frankfurter sausages were soooo much cheaper. Also, we pre-booked all transfers and tours - and it was these tours that predominately led us to these stunning natural wonders…

Northern Lights

Okay, starting with the one most people travel to Iceland for between September and April. We used Reykjavik Excursions, one of just a few tour companies operating in the capital city. They put on a minibus service to pick you up from a predetermined bus stop or your hotel that drops you off to the actual coach, which sits at the city's main bus terminal. Saved us a 10-minute chilly walk.

On journey, the guide explained the science behind the Northern Lights, and how three things are needed for us to see them: complete darkness with no light pollution (we had to turn our backs on oncoming cars during the hunt); the ideal weather of clear skies, so we can see towards the higher altitude more easily; and mother nature to actually play nice, so they come out. Arguably, more interesting were the myths surrounding the lights in different communities and counties, for example, the Vikings thought the Northern Lights were a reflection of their shields flying across the sky when they passed over. We also learned that some believed in night trolls and night ravens coming out after dark - and to this day, 80% of Icelandic people recently surveyed said that they couldn't "rule out" the existence of elves.

Right, I'll come out and say it, and probably sound like an ungrateful typpi, but the lights themselves were a little bit... underwhelming. Sure, we got to see a naturally occurring phenomenon that people would kill to see, but on our night, to the naked eye, it was a little dull. Our tour guide explained how the camera often captures it a lot better than we can see with our eyes - it literally looked like a stagnant light grey cloud to our peepers. But, here’s how it looked to our tour guide’s camera:

Image: Lydia Geirsdóttir

However, for someone who has grown up with light-polluted skies most of her life, seeing a clear sky peppered with sparkling stars, and feeling as if I was in my own personal snow globe? Yeah, that sight absolutely took my breath away. There's something magical about being under a million stars with your feet in crunchy snow, just standing in the pitch black looking at something a phone can't capture (yeah, I'm a secret hippy).

Dark mornings

From dark nights to dark mornings; it's proper weird waking up at 8.40am, 9.00am (aaaand a hell of a lot earlier on tour day) and it still being pitch black out. I'd say that's my only negative about the country, actually. It goes dark in the evenings at around 4.30pm, just like in British wintertime, but because it took so long to get bright in the first place, it feels weird. When we weren't getting up for tours, we spent the dark mornings and evenings playing cards to a 90s playlist, with the optional duty-free beverage, awaiting the sky to be lit up again, so we could see the grand Hallgrimskirkja from our window.

Hot springs

The country’s hot springs are another natural wonder that you have to immerse yourself in - literally. Laugarvatn Fontana is nestled just after the eerily foggy mountains (especially at night) of the Þingvellir National Park. Essentially, they are a series of outdoor pool-like hot tubs, but with naturally geothermic hot water, cooled down to varying temperatures (between 36 and 42 degrees) by water from a naturally freezing lake. There are natural saunas too, heated by the hot springs as well, so the temperature varies as the springs and plates underneath shift. FYI, the sulfur smell is strong in there. The Laugarvatn Fontana even serves a bread in its restaurant that has been baked by the heat of earth over 24 hours. Commitment to the cause, or what?

You may think being in -6 degrees in your swimmers is strange, as you run (but carefully cos, you know, slippery ice) towards one of the warm pools, but for proper strange, be sure to get your hair wet. ACTUAL ICICLES will form. It's so strange because you genuinely do not feel cold once you're in the water.

South Coast drive

For a long ol' journey - but where you'll see some of the most spectacular natural landscapes of your life - driving along the South Coast is absolutely unmissable. Again, we opted for a tour, Grayline this time, so all we had to do is sit pretty, hop off and on when told, and listen to the tour guide’s knowledge and love of Justin Bieber. You'll drive past lots of little towns, including Springfield, which was actually named for the Simpsons’ Springfield, and a constant slew of otherworldly snowy mountainscapes that will honestly take. your. breath. away. It's genuinely like stepping foot into an epic action sequence you've seen in movies. It's quite a full day because hello, oh there you are, finally, daylight hours, but so so worth it.

I can't count the number of times during this day that I muttered "wow", or "it's beautiful" under my breath (or actively voiced it to my travel buddies). From watching the sunrise with streaks of candy pinks and purples against the stark white expanse to observing sheets of ice flowing down the river, I felt like I was in a live Pinterest board. For a country that's made up of a little over 10% ice, there so much more depth to the landscapes than just snow. We drove through the largest national park in Europe, passed a farm whose owner hangs bras along his fence and leaves them blowing in the wind to raise money for a breast cancer charity and stopped at Skogarfoss and Seljalandfos waterfalls and Vik's black sand beach. The town is only home to 300 people, who actually practise running up the hills in case of landslides. Standing here, and later on the breathtaking beach of Jokulsarlon Lagoon with its even blacker sand punctuated by dramatic shards of ice, it was incredible that in one 360-degree turn, I could take in sea, sand, snow, mountains and, later, a gorgeous sunset. I enjoyed some tasty chips from a fish and chip van, before I waved goodbye to that heavenly spot. Be wary when you're packing that the temperature varies hugely between your stops; it was a balmy -3 (who thought I'd ever say that unironically) in Vik and -15 at the lagoon in the wind (which, FYI, makes a beautifully ethereal layer of whispy snow atop the regular stuff).

An actual chilled-out capital city

Coming from London, this is probably equally as shocking: Reykjavik, the most northern capital city in the world, is SO laid-back and generally quiet. They even had their Christmas lights up while we were there - end of January - because they are their "winter lights" to brighten up the dark months. We headed up to the top of Hallgrimskirkja to look out across the city, walk down to the water's edge to take photos (where my shoe got momentarily stuck in the snow, awks) and even frequented the largest penis museum in the world... yup. Laugavegur, the main shopping street, is no claustrophobic, maddening Oxford Street, that's for sure. We stopped at Svarta Kaffid, a traditional eatery serving soup and beer, the former in a bread bowl where they "close when the soup runs out or between 9 and 10" and the soup is a surprise when you return the next day. We also visited a highly recommended bakery during our stay, Braud & Co, and on our last day, checked out a lauded hot dog stand (yes, an actual stand is lauded) that had the perfect crispy onions.

We went to this pub called Bastard on our last day with a really cool aesthetic and a bathroom I could have spent a few hours in as comedy sketches played on loop; an Irish coffee was the equivalent of about £11, which compared to London prices, isn’t actually terrible.

One thing that did surprise me, not just in the city but out in the Icelandic countryside with the Icelandic horses, is the 4G coverage. My Instagram posting was shameless because it could be... but I strongly recommend switching your phone to aeroplane mode during the day and just enjoying the surroundings.

Treating yourself when travelling… and other things to do in Loch Lomond, Scotland

#nomakeupselfie

As I begin writing this, I can hear the familiar gentle lapping of waves hitting the shore and pulling back, repeatedly. It's one of my favourite sounds. Except this time, it's not coming from the Rain Rain app, so I can drift to sleep, or a video that I took at the beach on my travels; it's the sound of Loch Lomond right outside my window. 

You know how Colin Firth goes to a lake to write while sat in a cute cabin in Love Actually? Yeah, that's me right now. But whether or not you're a writer, illustrator or working in finance, it's important to treat yourself on your solo travels. It is perpetuated far too much that to be a proper 'traveller' - solo or otherwise - you have to don a backpack, sturdy shoes, and go on relentlessly about sticking your budget. While I'm donning the first two and usually guilty of the latter, I broke the mould with this trip to the village of Luss on the west bank of Loch Lomond in Scotland - without breaking the bank too much.

Book early

The early bird always gets the worm, hence all the so-called early bird offers. I had my heart set on a particular hotel, the Lodge on Loch Lomond, from the very start of planning this trip. From its close proximity to the Loch to the brilliant reviews from previous guests, all the cheaper hotels, B&Bs and even the gorgeous waterside hostel didn't compare (though the latter was a close second, but had no availability - see, gotta get in quick!) I booked around eight weeks in advance and got discounted rates, as well as breakfast included, and I was able to specify that I wanted a loch-facing room. Don't get me wrong, it was still the most expensive room I’d stayed in for a night, but I got a good rate and, boyyyy, was it worth it - more on that later.

Train tickets are another thing that are hella cheaper when booking advance. Yes, flights might have been quicker than the five-hour ride (plus the rather scenic hour's bus ride from Glasgow to Luss), but at just over £30 each way, I couldn't go wrong. Virgin Trains are pretty good when you're lucky enough to catch the deals. If you have an unreserved ticket, get there half an hour before, so as soon as the gate is open you can bag a good seat. There are one or two reserved cabins, depending on the size of the train. I hopped on the U cabin and managed to bag a full four table to myself in a forward-facing seat, next to the window. However, if I was a little smarter with it, I'd have gone with the C cabin for all this, plus all the snacks...

Choose one thing you're happy to properly splash all out on

That view… this photo doesn’t do it justice.

For me, it was the hotel. The boujis-ass hotel with the award-winning, two AA Rosette restaurant, Molton Brown bath amenities and a location right on the water's edge. Hey, if you're going to splash out on something, it might as well be the place you'll retreat to at the end of the day (or in my case, all evening because I couldn't tear myself away from the window). With its panelled wood interiors from floor to ceiling, gorgeous water and mountain views from the large windows and the soothing soundtrack of the waves, I felt like I was on a luxury boat. 

Room service was all part of this indulgence: a two-course dinner, with prosecco - garnished with a raspberry - plus Scottish shortbread biscuits, which I'm not ashamed to say I ate in between my meal, not after, then finished off in the bath just because. Doing it for the 'gram (except I didn't cos I was #livingmybestlife in REAL life). I have never felt so happily stuffed, apart from on Christmas Day. While the deep bath was something, the bed was something more. I'm a petite gal as it is, but I've genuinely never slept in that huge a bed. I have no regrets.

Remember that some experiences are priceless... 

I have never awoken to a more beautiful sight as I did in the morning (hotel windows and male suitors inclusive). I naturally woke up at around 7.15am, my body probably anticipating a day of work, and watched the sunrise over Loch Lomond from my bed.

Even as a writer, I don't think I can adequately put into words how content I felt for that hour or so. I did a Ross Gellar and stayed until the very last minute of my check-out, wanting to soak in every minute of this view that I could.

Other wonderfully free and freeing moments on this trip included seeing a pretty rainbow over the rolling countryside green on my train journey up, and strolling through Luss, sheep to the left of me, chocolate-box houses and mountains to the right, feeling like I was in the village off Postman Pat (the original, not the new computer-animated version, urgh).

... And get the most out of the ones that aren't

I told a lie earlier as I actually do have one regret from this trip: the hotel had some great spa facilities included in the room price that I didn't make the most of. However, breakfast I most definitely did, piling my plate high with hot Scottish breakfast goodies, including tattie scones and black pudding. I'll also only mention it one more time - promise - but I defo made the most of the view from my bedroom...

However, it's worth saying, that you shouldn't do yourself a disservice by forcing yourself to do something you don't want to do just to get your money’s worth. After all, the whole joy of solo travel is that you don't have to stick to a plan you previously committed to with someone else; you can do as you damn well please. 

Loch Lomond and Luss are also a nerve centre for a whole host of activities from water sports and cruises to hikes and wildlife excursions. While I had plans to take advantage of the activities here, in the end, I didn’t - and that’s okay! I will on my return.

Don't let anyone make you feel bad

Personally, I never drop big sums of money on the likes of clothes, shoes or bags (or anything less archetypal of a girl either - whoops, sorry PC police). Instead, trips abroad are my vice and, even then, I always make sure I have a good deal for what it is. Still, in flip mode to how people used to flash the cash, I genuinely feel there is a kind of millennial competition at times for who's the worst off in some circles. Don't fall into that. You work hard and save hard day in, day out - you can afford yourself a treat, so go ahead and do it! 

Joining a travel tour... and other things to do in Morocco

Beautiful weather, gorgeous ceramics and divinely intricate mosaics, as well as beaches and mountains; Morocco had been inticing me for a good while. Along with my primary venture onto the African continent, this trip also marked my first thoroughly solo trip and the first time I joined a travel tour group.

I was nervous about the whole thing up until the moment I stepped foot into the hotel. What if the transfer driver isn’t legit? What if I don't click with anyone once I arrive? What if my roomie is strange? What if I have to spend eight days hating every moment and I’ve paid for the privilege of doing so?!

Okay, so before I even go on about what you should expect from a travel tour and the country that is the fourth-largest producer of marijuana in the world (Rif Mountains - rifa - who knew?!), I have to say that joining a tour was the BEST decision and I’m so glad I did it on my own. I was absolutely gutted to leave the new friends I’d made (but thankfully, I have lived on in the form of photos of me sitting at the breakfast table and new welcome meetings, I’ve been informed). I know for a fact I wouldn’t have had the same experience had I joined with a friend.

Choose the right tour company

This is very important. There are so many out there, and they each offer different categories and styles of trip. I wanted to strike the balance between people who are sightseeing enthusiasts like me, but also happy to chill with a drink in hand. This is exactly what I got from my trip and I’m so pleased.

Talking sweepingly, there is Contiki (drunken Aussies), Intrepid (golden oldies, judging by the groups we passed in our hotel), and G Adventures among many many other tour operators. G Adventures provide different types of tours, from ‘Classic’ open age tours to more budget-friendly gallivants; I went for a G Adventures YOLO tour for 18 to 39-year-olds. The groups are no larger than 14, the accommodation is fairly basic but still good, and there is a good mix of core activities, optional activities and free time in each city and town.

Palace, Fes, Morocco

I discovered my initial worries about the tour were completely unfounded from the moment I knocked on my hotel room door at 10.30 on the Saturday night. I was so late because of BA delays on my first flight resulted in me missing my connecting flight (sorry hilarious air-steward Frank, but 15 minutes ain't enough to make the second flight). The girl sat next to me and I worked out we were both heading to Casablanca, albeit on different G Adventures tours and, once armed with handwritten boarding passes for a 7pm replacement flight, we headed out to Madrid city centre for sightseeing escapades and tapas, guided by my friend who lives there. I literally was twenties in transit! It was the most random afternoon, but it was a fantastic way to start to my adventure. I may have missed Casablanca, but I was advised that apart from the Casablanca mosque - the only one in the country that allows non-Muslims to enter - I hadn't missed too much.

In our group, we definitely had a few of the typical tour group types: the hilarious roomie (f-ing loved my roommate - all you'd hear was us two cackling intermittently at the front of the tour bus, and we had nightly jam sessions and debriefs of the day), a fun couple, student travellers, the one that was actually happy to go home and, out of our 14, we made a core group of 10 who, while we split in the day, spent the evenings together each night of my trip. We had some great times from hilarious dinners, watching the sunset from the Rif Mountains (and my roomie’s and my hilarious attempt at watching the sunrise), people-watching from our Chefchaueon hotel and getting eyebrowed by local kids.

On the note of saying ‘my trip’, be sure you know what kind of trip you're booking, too; as I’d booked a northern Morocco tour, and all but two of us had booked a northern and southern tour, I had to leave the group halfway through, which I was gutted about. We spent my last day in Marrakesh doing what I fancied - Majorelle Garden and Sky Bar - despite them having the opportunity to do it the next day, which I really appreciated. We still videocalled after I came back to London, and some of the group sent me photos of photos of me enjoying southern Morocco, which I absolutely LOVED, but next time, I will be booking a full tour #fomo

Our guide, or 'CEO' as G Adventures calls them, was brilliant. He was a wealth of knowledge and gave us many recommendations for our free time, too. He often made reservations for us, should we have needed, but also left us to it as per the tour itinerary.

Another note: check out your transfer times and, for the love of God (or Allah, as we were in Morocco) PACK TRAVEL SICKNESS TABLETS. This is something I didn't do and had to bum a couple off of one the nurses on the trip for the super-long ride to Marrakesh. My roomie and I also luckily bagged the front seats on the first journey despite getting on last and they kind of became our unofficial seats, which definitely helped our stomachs. We passed the time chatting, sleeping, listening to the guide and intermittently bursting into "A Whole New World."

Research the culture 

Wherever you go, it is a good idea to be aware of the culture. Morocco is a Muslim country and, while their current king seems pretty progressive, there are many things that differ in Morocco when compared to our Western lifestyle. While I may personally disagree with the gender roles and expectations within the country, I had chosen to visit there, so I had to be respectful.

I want to make it explicitly known that, while I can't speak for other’s experiences, I am absolutely fuming (raging) at how much scare-mongering there is about visiting Morocco online, especially as a solo female. I was so apprehensive, as were many of the female members of the group, and we experienced nothing but kindness, politeness and incredible customer service from the big cities to the small towns. From them setting aside myself and roomie a breakfast when the buffet was all out, to trusting us to come back to pay later when we didn’t have small enough denominations of cash, or letting me off altogether at the airport, this would hardly happen in the UK. A few of us even got into an Adele sing-a-long with our Chefchaouen hotel receptionist. Of course, you'll have the classic tourist issues, like drivers trying to overcharge for a taxi ride, or trying to coerce you into buying stuff, but as long as us women were dressed in the way they consider respectful  - shoulders, knees and cleavage covered - we had no problem with the locals, even in the medinas. Wearing a t-shirt, hippy trousers, a floaty skirt or a thin shawl/scarf over a vest top, we walked around, even solely as a group of three girls sometimes, went to bars (though it felt pretty weird for us to be the only females in there, and so so strange to only see a sea of men sitting on the restaurant terraces after sunset), and everything. Of course, it was a bit of a piss-take that the guys were able to stroll about in their boy scout shorts while we sweated with increasingly pasty legs, but it made for a good drinking game of spotting those flaunting their shoulders and knees. In fact, the most ‘accosted’ we got was by a rather persistent eight-year-old rose seller who attached her little body in a vice-like grip to one of the group and we weren't quite sure how to appropriately remove her...

While, of course, the country has an overall Muslim culture, it really does change from city to city, town to town. As we drove past agave cacti, orange and banana fields on our way from Casablanca to Tangier, our guide explained how in Tangier, which sits at the midpoint between the Atlantic and the Med, and is pretty close to Gibraltar, they speak more Spanish than French (alongside Arabic, of course) due to their close proximity to Spain. He also explained that a Moroccan breakfast was traditionally mint tea (absolutely BANGING FYI, and that's coming from someone who barely drinks hot drinks), lamsaman (a roti-style pastry that again was sooo good) and olive oil with bread, but you'll now increasingly see other more European bits, like croissants, as part of the spread. On our way from Tangier to Chefchaouen, we enjoyed a full history of Morocco, which was pretty interesting. We drove through the pine and cypress trees and a hella amount of weed in the Rif mountains (we did get offered “hashish” quite a few times - "in cookies for the ladies, as it's lighter" was met by an onslaught and hasty backtracking on one of the seller’s parts), and also passed so many donkeys, goats and a crazy amount of hitchhikers. The most eventful drive was definitely between Chefchaouen and Fes, where a police stop, the unexpected discovery of old vomit and a photo op between the Rif and Atlas mountains ensued, alongside our usual hydration stop. 

The medinas - the old towns, home to a series of winding alleyways where families live and sell things - were incredible. Now, prepare to get lost AF. On our first venture into a medina, heading towards Tangier's Kasbah and seaside, my roomie and I got lost on a five-minute walk to grab some magnets (not magnums as the majority of our little group heard). We legit ended up on someone's property until the stray cats saved us. We relied on more solid landmarks in Chefchaouen, which we smashed with our orienteering skills (and haggling!) on our second day, but we got so lost on our first. We knew the rough direction we needed to head in, but ended up way too high, by the wall. And don't get me started on the 19,000 alleyways of Fes medina. We had a pretty good tour from a local (who seemed to know everyone), but even so, we weren't toooo adventurous when five of us ventured back in ourselves.

Our day in Fes was a pretty good, filled with culture and, of course, the standard tourist Fes hats photo op, which five of us bartered even more successfully for than our guide thought we could (though wearing them did earn us more attention than usual!) We learned all about the power of seven in the Islamic culture, explored the exterior of palaces, the Quranic school and the Jewish quarter (Mellah), visited a huge tannery to see how the leather is made, as well as a ceramics factory and saw how silk scarves are made from the agave cacti - you literally pull apart the plant and thread appears! I found the Berber, Arabic and Islamic culture so intriguing. As I mentioned before, I may not necessarily agree with it all - particularly their views on women - but it was a real eye-opener. And, actually, the whole trip wasn't as much of a culture shock as I thought it would be; in fact, Ubud, Bali, was definitely more so.

Try new things 

Going on a tour means you’re in a much better position to try new things than you would be if you were going solo, or with a partner/buddy, I think. Included or optional tours provide the perfect opportunity to experience things you would find harder to gain access to as a normal traveller, and even if you choose not to go on those, you can safely get good recommendations from your guide.

At home, I'm neither a fan of olives nor beer, but I loved both these things in Morocco. They grow olives in the country and I couldn't get enough of the green ones - they were fabulous! Casablanca beer (served all over the country, despite the name) is so different than the stuff we usually get in the UK - Heineken this isn't (though we had to settle for it one night in Chefchaouen as they had run out of all the others - there was only one place, Hotel Parador, close to the Kasbah, that sold alcohol in the whole town). We ventured twice from this beverage when drinking: once to have a different, cheaper Moroccan beer in the most sex-dungeon-esque Fes bar, lit up like the red light district, where us five were the only ones there, bar a couple of locals and a performing duo, and also in the Sky Bar in Marrakesh. As seedy as it sounds (and it was), the evening at the red bar was hilarious. The duo were singing and playing the piano, and the former slowly started to make his way towards the guy in our group after a particularly vigorous clap after the first number, much to our amusement.

Right, so, this section would be incomplete if I didn't relay my traditional hammam experience. Only four of us opted to have a go at this practice, which our guide explained as a place where women and men go once or twice a week, apply black olive soap to their skin and scrub it off to get rid of any dead skin. It is also a social thing; men and women are in separate sections, but mothers and fathers will often use it as a place to scope out potential suitors for their kids and, ya know, just have a good ol' chinwag. Now, never in my adult life have I lay in the lap of an old, topless, Moroccan woman as she scrubs at my neck and I desperately try not to laugh while making (hazy, due to the lack of contact lenses) eye contact with my buddy receiving the same treatment. And, well, I'll be honest, no amount of pre-hammam chat can prepare you for the moment you are slid across bathroom-style tiles of a hot room in your swimmers by said old, topless Moroccan lady and your foot accidentally hits her naked boob. Nothing can prepare you for the wave of cold water that they throw over you at the end, either. All that said though, there is something pretty calming and humbling about having your hair washed with a bucket, shampooed, conditioned, combed with a flamingo-patterned Tangle Teezer, and plaited with your friend, all while trying to communicate through smiles and gestures with someone has just scrubbed your whole body. I have never had this baby soft skin like ever, and when we returned to the boys, it was comforting to hear their experience was just as crazy - and theirs included assisted stretches, too...

Don’t hold back when it comes to food

When talking about drink like above, obviously food comes hand in hand and, boy, did I have a lot of it. Bread was a natural staple at every meal, their salad was to die for (I don't even know what it contained, but it was like a mezze of veg and tasty spreads), and they had this incredible houmous-like bean soup, kefta tagines and so much more. The food is so cheap, too; for a normal meal, you’ll pay the equivalent of anywhere between £3.50 and £7. My favourite meal was an all-out, expensive, elite meal (£21) on our first night in Fes, just as you enter the medina, where we had a three-course meal, consisting of Moroccan salad, chicken pastella (deliciously spiced chicken, wrapped in a crispy crepe-style pastry, sprinkled with icing sugar and cinnamon) followed by a coconut cake-biscuit dessert. We watched a magic show, fire-eating belly dancers, a traditional band, a fake bride, and they pulled up members on the stage. This meal was in stark contrast to my last one in Marrakesh... let's just say meaty "veggie soup", a four-cheese pasta for me, and a whole lot of lols (and potential food poisoning).

Unfortunately, when it came to vegetarian dishes, there was often limited choice: vegetarian tagine or couscous. Often, the menu would boast an array of options, but you would find that they had run out - quite like the beer situation - even in some pretty good restaurants. It just seemed to be a thing. However, we all very much enjoyed the mint tea, from our very first dalliance with it in Petit Socco in Tangier, to the mint and lemonade that tasted like just like a mojito that I tried to seek out at every opportunity.

Just enjoy your time

For both joining a travel tour and heading to a country with vastly different cultural expectations, my main piece of advice for anyone would be JUST EMBRACE IT ALL. When else are you in a position where you’re with a bunch of random people from all over the world who you may never see again (though I hope to see some of them!), or able to be in a hot country and not have to shave your legs even once? Don’t care what you look like, how you come across or about problems back home - just go and have fun and do everything on offer!!

Releasing your inner child... and other things to do in Disneyland Paris, France

This year has seen a few activities ticked off my childhood bucket list. I saw the Sydney Opera House with my own eyes back in May, I am off to watch the actual Queen B - B for Britney Spears - at the end of the month and I finally spent a day at a decent outdoor pool in England like we all do on holiday (there are so many London lidos about... who knew?)

As a child, I didn't have any actual proper interest in the world of Disney. While my brother and I would watch our Alice in Wonderland video on repeat - and I would lie to my mum and say my teachers had taken me to visit the blue moorcroft during the school day - that was about it. The Lion King was emotionally stressful, Ursula was scary AF and while Aladdin had cool songs (and my fancy dress party alter-ego of Jasmine), I just liked the films. However, I soon learned young Tamsin was missing a trick when I set foot in the Happiest Place on Earth a few weekends ago. 

A whirlwind weekend, thanks to my lack of available annual leave and other adulty constraints, I donned my Disney manicure, my two friends and my friend's 9-year-old son and headed to Paris on the Saturday, smashed pretty much everything Disneyland's main park had to offer in 14 hours on the Sunday, and commuted to work from Paris, via Lille, on the Monday morning. It was one of THE BEST weekends I'd had in ages.

We get so caught up in our day-to-day responsibilities, life admin and how good our lives supposedly look on Instagram, that sometimes we forget to have the good old fashioned fun we had in childhood. That is exactly what we did this weekend. Here's how to rediscover your inner child with a trip to Disneyland Paris...

Wake up early

I am guilty of wanting a long lay-in on the weekend; we work so damn hard in the week and live by an alarm most of the time, so why not? I still stand by this belief but, when it comes to Disneyland, channel your inner six-year-old, get up and GO! Despite a late night because of our late train being delayed, we got up at the crack of dawn (well, 7.30am) and were in the queue for the park by 9am. 

The doors opened at 9.30am and we headed straight for the shop to get our ears on. Make sure you buy your mouse ears from inside the park - after you've scanned your ticket, not just from stalls after the security checkpoint - as there is a huge range. In fact, we probably missed a trick by getting them at the shop that sold around 10 options; you'll find more and more designs throughout the different 'lands'. 

It was a good thing we got in early as, two attractions in, my friend's son had a little accident. As we exited Alice's Curious Labyrinth, he collided with a rather ill-placed pole, catching the corner. This meant a trip to the fully-functional Disney hospital (with a nice French fire warden escort) where we observed a couple in their early 40s jokingly miffed that the plaster the husband had received was not a Mickey Mouse one. It was okay though, as the wife then drew one on for him - true love, that. This is one of the things I loved about the park; grown adults, Shoreditch hipster-types, the Phil Mitchells of the world - everyone I saw had a grin from ear to ear, some singing, some bopping along, nearly ALL with some sort of Disney paraphernalia on their head, getting into the Disney spirit.  

Be willing to let go of the purse strings

Right, I'm gonna get this out of the way early. Remember when you were a kid and had no concept of money? Yeah, you're gonna need that attitude here. While I live a very budget-focused life at the moment, you've got to be willing to let that go in the Happiest Place on Earth. Thankfully, I came with a set amount of mullah that I was willing to spend throughout the weekend, so I could only go mad within that realm. 

Our must-get Disney ears were a bit on the expensive side, but we'd have done ourselves an injustice had we not got a pair each. Water was another essential; it was hot, so you've gotta keep hydrated. I wince a little bit now though, looking back on how we each spent about €15 on aqua, especially when I remember how I left three different bottles on three different rides. Whoops.

Now, food. Mate. You're gonna spend a lot. My loaded chips and four chicken nuggets cost me the equivalent of £15. FIFTEEN POUNDS. FOR CHICKEN NUGGETS AND CHIPS. Yeah, I'm not yet over that one. 

Rides, shows and the parade

It's a Small World

Despite going at the start of the summer holidays on a sunny weekend, we were pretty lucky with the queues. We waited between 20 and 45 minutes to get on the rides, apart from Big Thunder Mountain, which was an hour's wait. If you wish, you can opt for a 'fast pass': you'll receive a time for the ride, go off and enjoy yourself, then return at the stated time, missing out the queues. 

Right, I will say it now: I hate rides. I hate that stomach drop feeling and I hate not knowing what's around the corner. In fact, I watched the other three take on Big Thunder Mountain from the comfort of a nice rock on the ground. At Disneyland Paris, sure, there are those kinds of rides, but there are also a lot of chilled-out rides that aren't just the plain old teacups.

There are a few rides that you sit on and just watch a story or show, for example, Pinocchio's Daring Journey and It's a Small World. The latter was one of my faves as I enjoyed the recreation of all the different countries and how the song (a proper earworm) was sung in different languages. 

There are more interactive rides, such as Buzz Lightyear's Laser Blast, which involves competitively shooting targets with a laser (we got quite into this), and Autopia, where you drive a car around a track. My favourite ride was Pirates of the Caribbean which, despite being in darkness and beholding a few unexpected drops, I found thrilling. Once that theme tune starts playing, you're transported to the world of Jack Sparrow and Davy Jones in an instant. The production values on all the rides, and even their queueing areas, are incredible. It genuinely felt like a tropical night as we waited to board our 'boat' on the Pirates ride, despite being 3pm on a hot summer's afternoon.   

As we were at the park during the 25th anniversary year, there was a 25th anniversary show that we sat and enjoyed, croissants in hand. Again, I loved how they integrated different languages throughout in a way that flowed and was non-repetitive, rather than doing it purely in French or English. 

The parade that takes place a few times a day is a Disneyland classic. Head to the main concourse to grab a spot, but get there early. We, unfortunately, headed over just before it began, so we were a few people deep in the crowd. There are acts and characters doing 'floor work', which was a little hard to see from our low vantage point, however, there are huge floats you can enjoy no matter how far back you are. Again, incredible production values - the dragon from Sleeping Beauty was mesmerizing!

Of course, a trip to Disneyland would be incomplete without meeting the man himself. Not Walt, obviously, but Mickey Mouse. Unlike the other characters who roam about the park, or are stationed outdoors, Mickey gets his own theatrical experience and room. While you queue (again, this was about 40 minutes), you can watch reruns of the cartoon, before being ushered into a room with just your group, the photographer, and Mickey himself. Now, I don't know if it is just me, but there is something weird about knowing there is an actual human being behind that huge animal head, and not knowing whether his/her eyes are in the eyes, in the nose, in the cheeks... it's unsettling. However, don't be apprehensive like me - just embrace the magic! Yes, even when Mickey tries to run off with your friend... 

Put down that camera and enjoy the moment!

I love taking photos all. the. time. I print them out and have them in an album, and I love spending a Sunday afternoon leafing through and reliving good experiences. I often take short videos when I'm on holiday, so I can truly relive the moment, especially when I'm on a grotty tube. 

However, make sure that you're not just viewing your surrounds through a camera lens or phone screen - smell it, see it, hear it and feel it in the moment. The whole of Disneyland is great at keeping your mood up, especially when you're 9 years old, or feel 9 years old again, and have done over 31,000 steps. They play music constantly in the Central Plaza and at various points throughout the park, so you can't help but feel upbeat, too. 

The most magical part of the day, by far, was the illuminations. The world-renowned daily show at 11pm is just... words cannot describe it. We got to the Central Plaza at around 9.30pm, kitted out with our snacks, and thank God we did; it got packed. Fast. We opted for a spot near the fences a little further back from the fountains and protected our space like a lioness would her cubs. Come 11pm, we had a great view and what proceeded was an absolute feast for the eyes, ears and even the soul, tbh. The fireworks were incredible, the music was touching and, the last time I'll say this, I promise, but the production values were AMAZING. The whole thing was genuinely tear-provoking. It wasn't even just the classic Beauty and the Beast montage and scenes the more recent Frozen, either; Star Wars got their moment, too.  A very special 20 minutes... and there have only been a few moments in my life that I can say that about... 

No matter your age, no matter whether or not you have a son/daughter/niece/nephew/family friend, Disneyland needs to be on your list. It really is the happiest place on earth and is truly MAGICAL.  

Getting the taste for solo travel... and other things to do in Sydney, Australia

I've never intended to become a solo traveller; one of those wild and carefree people who grab their backpack and seek out adventure on their own. I'm too cautious and map illiterate for that. I've plenty of times set foot on a plane on my lonesome, only to be met on the other side by a friend, or family member, who takes me under their wing for the days that follow, not once leaving my side in a land unknown.

My trip to Sydney was kinda different. While I was surrounded by many friends, friends of friends, ex-colleagues, and some pretty key figures in my life, these people had their 9 to 5s to contend with, too. A 16-day holiday ain't annual leave friendly for ANYONE. So, during their working hours, I found myself cracking out Citymapper, city guides, and my headphones, and exploring a land down under on. my. own. If, like me, you're a keen traveller, but super wary of walking into the unknown without back-up, here are a few tricks and tips that made me fall in love with solo travel (backpack optional - I opted for a 23kg suitcase instead).

Learn to enjoy your own company

First things first, you've got to be okay with your own company. I would consider myself a fairly self-confident person, however I realised entering social situations with only me, myself, and I, was a totally foreign situation to me. Grabbing dinner at Heathrow at the start of the trip was the first time I'd ever sat in a pub on my own and, frankly, I didn't know what to do with myself.  How that has changed in just over two short weeks - in fact, one of the days, I opted to spend the afternoon on my own, rather than meet a friend. The secret is to just grin and bear it, until you find that it's not a forced smile and, actually, you're involuntarily smiling to yourself because you've realised your own company is frigging fantastic and you are having a great time (yes, cringe, but yes, I did do this). 

On two occasions, I found myself wandering alone around Sydney - once though The Rocks towards the CBD and Darling Harbour, another time through the Royal Botanical Gardens and around the Circular Quay area - at my own pace. There's something about walking around with your headphones amongst the cityfolk that makes you feel like you belong there, despite not knowing where the F you're going. There were no complaints about how long I was taking, thanks to my little legs, no objections to spending an obscene amount of time in the palm tree section of the Botanical Gardens, then breezing through the so-called pretty sections in 0.2 seconds (palm trees are my fave plant and they had them from all over the world!), and I could walk in circles admiring the Opera House and eating as much gelato as my heart desired. Isn't that great? 

I changed my plans on a whim and there was no one to explain or 'pitch' this idea to - I could do what I damn well pleased! YASSS. I know the sightseeing buses are so classically tourist, but I think they are the best way to get an overview of a city. There was quite a bit of Sydney I would have missed if I skipped out on the tours, such as the Vertical Gardens, residential Dover Heights (#homegoals), Rose Bay and some incredible views. The tour here is split into two; the Bondi line is a must do for gorgeous beaches and bays, and cityscape views, while the City line is packed with a whole host of fun facts, for example, Oxford Street, home to many a pub, bar and restaurant was paid for in 45 gallons of rum. I enjoyed what the area had to offer with some good friends of mine; from a drag queen act to a grime night, and a Sunday session thrown in for good measure. 

Split your itinerary into solo and group activities

Although it is key to be comfortable in your own company, we have to accept that there are just some things we won't want to do on our own - whatever the reasons. For me, the aforementioned sightseeing bus tour, relaxing on Manly Beach, and visiting the Australia Museum were activities I was happy to do by myself. The museum was smaller than I anticipated, but well worth it, especially their Garrigarrang: Sea Country exhibition, which gave some good insight into the Aboriginal heritage of the country. 

However, going to Taronga Zoo, and doing coastal walks between Coogee and Bondi and Manly and The Spit, were activities I preferred to do with company. I'm not sure why, as I'm pretty sure many people happily do these activities on their own, but hey! My prerogative (I love you, Britney). 

To get to Taronga Zoo, you get the ferry from Circular Quay and head to the zoo's own little island. From there, you can get a cable car to the top and make your way through the zoo. It's a fabulous touch, as you can see the elephants and other animals from high above, pretty much as soon as you get to the zoo, as well an amazing view of the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and the CBD against the water when you look behind you. My buddy's favourite were the majestic tigers, but personally, I was in awe of the gorillas. They were just so human-like, I felt almost like I was spying on a family going about their daily life.

The coastal walks are a must-do in Sydney. Within half an hour from the main city, you can undertake recreational walks along kilometres and kilometres of gorgeous beaches, bays and cliffs (which were practically empty as I was visiting 'out of season' - though 27 degrees is defo the season for me). Now, I love walking through Richmond Park here in London, but as a sea lover, these walks win it, hands down. Bondi to Coogee takes over an hour or so, so we got a bus from Central to Bondi Junction, then another to the famous Bondi Beach to begin the picturesque walk. I did this with two girls I met on a group tour (more below), and we chatted about travels, our lives at home, and so much more, stopping every couple of yards to take photos. When we got to Coogee Beach, we sunbathed, went into the water and I actively stayed away from the only 2.3 spiders I saw on my WHOLE trip (thank you, God). I did the 10km Manly to The Spit walk a week later with a good friend of mine, catching up and having a few D&Ms. It was much more of a bush walk that the first, shorter one, but I loved it! Taking you through a hella lot of greenery, and offering stops where you can admire Aboriginal carvings, this walk offers so much different scenery - and photo ops! There is even a bit when you have to walk across a beach. Unlike other times my friend had done it, the tide was well in and, well, let's just say we were a bit off with our timing... *squelch squelch trainers*.  

A great middle ground between the above two options is going as a solo traveller onto an organised group tour, like I did for the Blue Mountains. I very much recommend the Coast Warriors Travel Australia tours, as they are so laid-back and good value for money, yet offer an amazing experience and a wealth of knowledge. Aimed at backpackers, our tour was actually filled with way more variety than that. A small group, there were, of course, a few travelling youngsters, but also people like me - holiday folk - people visiting friends, and even a mother and daughter duo. Funnily enough, the first people I met on this tour were a trio who lived just down the road in Angel and, as the whole group hopped in the camper van filled with flags, stuffed toy kangaroos, and signs and stickers with some very choice words - I won't show Grandma that photo - the group got on really well. BREATHTAKING views were ample and, actually, the Three Sisters (which you get to touch as part of the tour... perv) were probably the most average view of the day, which says something. At one point, I was laying about two meters from a very high cliff edge, with the bluest skies above me and vast green valleys below - bliss. The tour included a BBQ lunch with the opportunity to try kangaroo meat, games, TimTams and more. It was a hilariously fun day out and, even just a couple hours in, I felt like I was on a big ol' Aussie road trip with a bunch of mates. 

Be prepared and, even then, be prepared to get lost 

My phone provider doesn't offer particularly favourable overseas rates once you venture out of Europe, so my usual Google Maps fall back had to be adapted slightly. Strangely, I would say CityMapper is better in Sydney than it is in London, so I citymapped a lot of my journeys at the beginning of the day then screenshotted them, so I could access them without internet later on. Google Maps also has an option to save maps you can use offline. It was helpful that all the friends I stayed with lived quite centrally, so it was fairly easy to maneuver between stations; it was any walks with more than one or two turns I struggled with - classic Tam! However, there are quite a few road signs for pedestrians about and, the transport staff are very helpful. They don't appear disgruntled when you ask them for help - even the bus drivers (which is particularly helpful, as the older buses don't indicate the upcoming stops with any signage or announcements while you're on them). 

Grab an Opal card (the Sydney version of London's Oyster) from a corner shop or Woolworths, top up at the station and, with this, you can hop on any train, bus and even most ferries! On my first full day in Sydney, I got my first taste of solo travel; I grabbed the Opal pass my friend had kitted me out with and headed to Circular Quay. I hopped on the ferry to a virtually empty Manly Beach, sat on the soft sands, crinkling it between my toes, reading a book and hearing the sounds of the waves over the music in my ears. I felt so happy. I even managed to catch the sunset behind the Harbour Bridge on the ferry back, because I had stopped for chicken nuggets.  

Worst comes to worst though, always have the option to turn on the internet, grab an Uber or phone a friend (yes, there were some cases I had to relent. Here's my dollar, *unnamed phone provider*).

Do once-in-a-lifetime things

Celebrate your 'I can do anything', powerful feels from doing your own thing by marking the occasion with something you'll remember forever. As a double celebration, on my birthday, I climbed the Harbour Bridge. Yes, that huge, f-off bridge that dominates the Sydney skyline. As someone who almost cried at Go Ape because I was scared of heights, this was probably my proudest moment of the whole trip. There were only two other people booked in to climb it in the same time slot, so we were able to ascend at our own pace, chatting along the way. I was surprised that, apart from a few bits which, yes, did feel like you were walking on water because the ground was grated and you could see straight through (*gulp*), for the majority of the climb you couldn't tell how high you were unless you properly looked down to your right. The BridgeClimb guide was really friendly and explained a lot of the bridge's history to us and, despite sweating profusely from fear and heat in the rather fetching grey bodysuit, I stepped off feeling such a huge sense of accomplishment.  

Have people to share your day with that evening

Whether it be friends, strangers, phoning home, or a Facebook community (there are some great ones for solo travellers), have someone to relay your day to each evening. It's all well and good doing these kick-ass things, but you can feel lonely internalising them if you're used to the constant company back at home.

If you can organise a home-stay wherever you are, it is a really good chance to immerse yourself in the country's culture and experience normality. I guess I had five kind-of homestays during my time in Sydney: I got to stay in a variety of suburbs at four different friends' homes, and I even went up the coast to Newcastle to stay with my friend's family for a night. I loved Newcastle, and loved the idea of growing up here - it just had a good vibe. We chilled with family and friends, cooked, ate, played games, went for walks, even did some filming, and I revelled in how close everyone was.

When I first landed, a friend of mine had prepared her home, even her own bed, for me to crawl into after the hellish journey from London, despite being at work. She had made sure everything was as easy as possible for me to manoeuvre in the new city, which I am so grateful for. I woke up and found my way to Wynyard, of course managing to get lost on a three-minute walk on the way, before meeting one of my friends at his work. He led me on a (long) stroll ending at the Sydney Opera House (which he rather lovingly wouldn't let me see as we made our way around Circular Quay, so it was more of a surprise), where I was reunited with another friend - two of my best buddies, who I'd lived with in England (and travelled to Hvar and Milan with). It was all the more poignant as my aunt had got me a National Geographic game in my childhood where the Opera House was a trump card; it really honed in the fact that I was halfway across the world.

On this trip, I also got a lot closer to some friends who were part of larger friendship groups in London. Where I'd never really got the opportunity back at home, I was able to spend hours and hours with them, meeting other important people in their lives and, in some cases, getting to know them even better outside a work capacity. We ate, went to house viewings, explored suburbs and even went to sports games. On my birthday, my first spent completely away from my family, I was filled with so much love as I was taken to an incredible waterside bar, and a restaurant with the most incredible pork I've had in my life. We were all very surprised by a drum rendition of 'Happy Birthday', which made for some good laughs.  

I ate so much amazing food while in Sydney and, as a breakfast lover, I've fallen hook line and sinker for how good brunch is out there. So much, in fact, that on one occasion, we ordered double the amount of food. I really rated 4 Ate 5 in Surry Hills and Flour Drum in Newtown, and to be honest, would happily just brunch my way around this town every weekend til the end of time. I had great gelato from Messina at 11pm one night, after a drinking and art session at Cork and Canvas (a birthday gift that was another must-do while you're in Sydney - I massively surprised myself at how great my painting came out), as well as popping into Mr Crackles (fried chicken or any pork dish is the way to my heart). 

All in all, I don't feel like this is the last of with my dalliance with Sydney. Unlike my usual resolute to not visit a place more than once (because that money can go towards visiting a brand new place, instead!) I will defo be back!

Getting the silver-screen experience... and other things to do in LA, California

LA: the home of Hollywood hopes and beachside gyms. It was also home of my aunt for a couple of years, so I hopped across the pond to live out my 90210 dreams for a fortnight.

Naturally, I started off my trip like a celeb, dosed up to the high hills on prescription meds (all legit; it was my first solo long-haul flight and I'm not a flying fan), basking in extra legroom despite being (just) shy of five foot. LOLs. 

I am very much like my aunt where travelling is concerned, so the moment I touched down at LAX, it was sightseeing central. I’m all for living like the locals (or with a local, in this case), but here are a few tips on how to get that silver-screen experience when you hit up Hollywood. Limo not included, sorry.

Universal Studios

Start at the top

Literally. Of course, everyone heads up to the Griffith Observatory to get the classic Hollywood sign selfie #basicbitches (JK, obvs I got one), but the observatory itself is v. interesting, too. The Foucault Pendulum, which Ryan Gosling and Emma Stone dance around in La La Land, draws in a lot of people and I was fascinated. In layman’s terms, the bronze ball’s swing depends on the Earth’s rotation at any given time, demonstrating that yes, we are rotating daily. I know we know this anyway, but for someone with little scientific background, it’s pretty cool to see the concept right in front of your eyes. Go on, have your own La La Land moment - Ryan Gosling optional. The view of the city below was also great for my mild OCD tendencies; the grid system made the land below look all neat and nice and I loved it.

Get on the big screen... kind of

It’s something a little different, but see if you can get into the audience for the filming of a TV show. Your face may not get on the big - or small - screen, but your laughter will. And really, what is Friends, or The Big Bang Theory, without that chorus of chuckles? Like a lot of the audience attendances in the UK, those with free tickets still need to queue up, and it’s first come, first served; you need to get there early in order to guarantee a seat.  

Follow in the footsteps of others... 

Another attraction that goes without saying is the Walk of Fame. For some reason it wasn’t too busy when I went, so we perused the whole street and I discovered Meryl Streep has MUCH larger hands than I do. My fave star was actually not on the Walk of Fame itself though; a few days later, we passed a local church and I looked down to see a replica pink star in honour of Jesus. It made me laugh a lot. Well played, JC followers.

Walk of Fame star outside of a church

We also drove through Beverly Hills and Rodeo Drive, admiring the places I had grown up seeing in films, TV and magazines. I absolutely love palm trees - they are my favourite type of tree, and plant for that matter - and they weaved up high into the sky everywhere I looked. I was in my element. It’s lucky my aunt didn’t have a convertible because God knows I would have gone full stereotype and waved my arms in the air while screaming at the top of my lungs.

As a lover of water, of course, we also hit up the beaches in the area. Venice Beach is pretty cool but, personally, I preferred Santa Monica. One day I’ll go on an America road trip, but for now, I settled for a photo next to the endpoint of Route 66. I also took LOADS of photos on our visit to the Grammy Museum, which was a lot more exciting than I had anticipated. All floors were super interactive and it was great to actually see the history behind the world-renowned music awards, as opposed to just remembering Lady Gaga crawling out of an egg... 

A little less museum, a little more theme park was Universal Studios which, again, was a place I’d grown up seeing in pop culture and was *so* excited to visit. I’m not even a fan of rides, but I was so chuffed at finally getting a photo in front of that globe. I felt like I was on a film set from the moment we approached the grounds at 8am. Yes, we got there WAY early, but we were the first ones to get on the studio tour that day meaning we didn't have to queue for most queued-for attraction in the park. I survived a national disaster, rode through Wisteria Lane (RIP Mike), headed to the Kwik-E-Mart and, of course, came face to face with the shark from Jaws. I even had my own “Oh my God. You’re from London?!” moment. A very good day. 

...but go rogue too

Get off that beaten path and visit parts that you might not have necessarily seen in the media. Go to the Old Town, head into China Town; don't just go to the Grove! It’s worth noting here that although I’ve focused on the sleek, glossy sides of LA in this post, one thing I noticed is that it is one of the most integrated cities I’ve ever been to. By this, I mean you could go from absolute decadence on one street, turn a corner to be in poverty, then back to a street where there’s a stupid amount of money pumped in again in a matter of minutes.

In terms of lesser-known attractions, definitely hit up the temples in the area. We first went to Hsi Lai Temple, the largest temple on the West Coast, situated in Hacienda Heights. Again, the view was great and exploring the grounds was pretty cool. There was a room FULL of different-sized Buddhas, which was an amazing sight to behold, as well as various holy statues, gardens and carvings. I observed monks who had taken a vow of silence and first learned about America’s weird (read: amazing, if you’re an easily offended American, aka Trump) rule about having their flag higher up the pole than any other countries’ flag. We also visited the serene Svivnanda Inner Peace temple, which I can’t recommend enough to take some downtime, while The Getty Museum was also a hidden gem of lush green gardens (as well as the amazing art collected by J. Paul Getty, of course). 

Svivnanda Inner Peace Temple

How to staycation properly... and other things to do in Edinburgh, Scotland

For New Year's last year, I headed up the country to Edinburgh and, despite clearly being a different city, it still very much had the UK vibes (hi cold weather, hi).

Going on 'holiday' in your home country has its perks. Cost, for example, is likely to be lower than international travel, the language is the same (or, if not, then pretty similar), and there'll be no worry of the currency exchange rate doing you over #BloodyBrexiters.

However, holidaying at home may sometimes take away the feeling of, you know, actually being on holiday. But, by making these seemingly small decisions, I could have easily been somewhere else in Europe (with equally as shite weather as the UK).

New Year's Eve crew

Getting there

Driving for seven hours (well, being a passenger; it's a hard life) definitely generated the road trip feeling. There's just something about service stations, isn't there? Once we got in to the city, we dropped our bags off at the AirBnb and headed to a pub on the recommendation of our host.

On our way back, flying was our mode of transport. Just being at an airport oozes holiday vibes, even if it is the end of the hols. For someone who hates flying, I absolutely love being at the airport and, in this case, flights from Edinburgh to London were actually hella cheaper than train tickets #winning.

Surround yourself with locals and their traditions

You're bound to soak up the culture and traditions of the town you're visiting, even if it's only a couple hundred miles way from home, by surrounding yourself with locals. The Scottish festival of Hogmanay was in full swing throughout our stay, which we found entailed a hell of a lot more than the fireworks at the turn of the year. We got up close and personal with ye olde Scotsmen (unfortunately not in kilts) on countless occasions during our trip.

We took part in the Torchlight Festival on New Year's Eve eve (or the 30th December, as some people call it), and it was incredible. We each had a 'torch' between a group of three: basically a long stick lit at one end with an entirely open flame. Very trusting are the Scots. We toured the streets in our thousands, taking in all the sights by night as we went. It was beautiful to see the streets lit up by some many individual little fires constantly moving forward.

Torchlight Festival - Scots Monument

The next evening, we DEFINITELY surrounded ourselves with the locals, tourists, and every man, woman and child Edinburgh had to offer. As you can imagine, the fireworks were a very close affair. At one point, we joined forces with two other groups of people to guard our standing point and create a human wall to stop people squashing us even more than we were. The fireworks themselves were beautiful though, and were a great way to welcome in the new year. As were the post-fireworks visit to the pub to wait out the taxi until 3am. We had a great laugh playing Heads Up and drinking until we could get home. Alas, we were too hanging to take part in the run into the sea the next day...

See the sights

Of course, aside from Hogmanay, there are the sights in Edinburgh that are there the whole year-round. I don't know how I always end up trekking huge heights whenever I'm on holiday, but we headed up to Arthur's Seat prior to the Torchlight Parade to get a good view of Edinburgh below. A year on and I'm still in awe of my friend who did it all in heeled boots (which many tourists passing us seemed compelled to remind her). The view was great and really drove home that I wasn't in London anymore.

Half of us also explored Edinburgh Castle, myself wrapped in a tartan scarf, obvs. Apart from another great view of the city below, the castle is like a mini-museum with old jail cells, historical armour and painted artwork. I enjoyed discovering Edinburgh's history and it was good to take time learning new things.

Savour the free time

Although you're still at home (kind of), treasure the fact that you're on holiday. You'd otherwise be working, doing chores, or getting pissed in the same pub week in, week out. Instead, we chose to down whisky at 10am in a distillery, following a ride on a whisky barrel... We learnt a lot and even came away with a couple of free gifts!

The distillery

Another difference to our frequent Thursday night pub visits was the fact that we played games throughout. There were many a tense game of Jenga and Heads Up throughout our stay and it even earned us a round of shots from a friendly stranger, admiring our impeccable sportsmanship from the bar. Let's not even get onto our own version of Cards Against Humanity... we probably would have earned more than free shots for that.

FINALLY...

The best thing about staycations? You can return pretty soon. Not too far from home, and as I said earlier, likely cheaper than heading abroad. Anything you do miss while you're there can easily be done a few weeks, or months, later. Result!

For more Edinburgh insights, check out this post for info on my return trip to Edinburgh (as well as the Scottish Highlands)

Mingling with locals... and other things to do in Oslo, Norway

Of course we've all been to countries with friendly and helpful locals, but the Norwegian people we encountered on our short weekend away were some of the loveliest, funniest, warmest (lols, ironic) people I've ever come across. 

From my PT's 7:30am pint (yep, she's a great influence) all the way to stepping off the train at Liverpool Street on Sunday, the laughter was constant, which in turn attracted laughter from those around us, wherever we went. We clearly gave Palladium-level comedic performances...

Our host 

Our AirBnb was in the perfect location, about 7 minutes walk from Majorstuen train station, which was two stops from the town centre. The home itself was quaint and cosy, with a cottage vibe and exactly what you'd want a winter break home-stay to be. The host lived in the house above, and was so accommodating and really down to earth. She chatted with us about her plans for the night, gave us recommendations for our own evening, and offered her daughter's services to drive us into town.

When her daughter came to collect us, we again sat in their home and chatted for ages. She enlightened us on the student traditions in Norway and her aspirations for her next year at university. As she drove us into town, she pointed out landmarks and enlightened us with relevant stories from her own life. 

She dropped us off near the Oslo Opera House, which we proceeded to scuttle up in the dark. There was literally no one else around, so we marvelled at Oslo by night without any annoying tourists about - a category we definitely don't fall under, obvs - until our bellies reminded us that crisps and rum had not been a satisfactory dinner.

Wetherspoons (kind of)

After walking about for ages, assessing menus and dipping into (suspiciously quiet) venues, we ended up in what can only be described as a Norwegian Wetherspoons. You can take the ladies out of London, eh. To their merit, there was a live band and their cocktails were pretty superior to our Blue Lagoon pitchers, tbh.

Seeing as Oslo is a port city, myself and another member of our group decided to sample the mussels. BEST. DECISION. EVER. These mussels were the best I'd ever tasted. Like, ever. The flavour in the sauce, the small cubes of chorizo, the size of the mussels themselves... perfection. If I ever return to Oslo, this is where I am heading first. 

Once the food had been cleared away, our singing and love of accessories caught the attention of two Norwegian girls who proceeded to ask if they could join us. What proceeded was a lot of laughter, singing, jubilation and the seed was planted. Karaoke? Okay! 

The girls were a great comedy duo, with one quipping "Okay, let me translate," after everything her friend said, even if it was in English, but alas their sense of direction and knowledge of open bars on a Friday night didn't match up. We went separate ways after a great evening.

Down by the docks

Sightseeing 

We were up and out fairly early the next day, much to my pleasure as a sightseeing fiend and someone who likes to make the most out of what each country has to offer.

Our sightseeing guide was a uni friend of one of our group who has lived in Norway for the last decade, or so.   

First of all, she took us on the most picturesque tube ride I've ever been on. Central line this was not. What started underground in a snow-less city ended up in a winter wonderland of snow, mountains and incredible views. We walked up to the most Scandi looking cafe-restaurant, Fognerseteren restaurant og kafe, and enjoyed hot chocolate, cookies and cake while we soaked up the Bavarian vibe. With moose antlers in place of chandeliers, it was all very 'big summer blow out' from Frozen.    

After we filled our boots with treats and snow, we headed back down into Oslo's town centre and walked along the dock. The sunset pretty early, so we enjoyed a beautiful pink sky over the waters at about 3:30pm. Much to my sadness, the Christmas vibe wasn't in full force yet as it was only early November, though we did admire a small bauble Christmas tree. I learnt that Norway donates the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree to us Londoners each year. 

On our way back to our AirBnb, we stopped by Vigeland Park where we proceeded to act out the poses of each and every weird and wonderful statue. It was bloody hilarious; you'd never have guessed the average age of the group was 31 years old. My favourite was the observation from one of the group: "but why are they naked? It's so cold here."

Our attempt at bar hopping, take two

The city is covered with clocks nearly everywhere you turn, so we had no excuses to be late to our reservation at a local Norwegian restaurant recommended by our AirBnb host. Again, great food and drink ensued, and the waitress was so helpful with recommendations that we left her a tip; something we learnt wasn't a regular occurrence in Norway. We headed out into the town centre (where there was a lot more of a buzz compared to the previous night) to see where the night would take us. 

Unfortunately, we enjoyed the restaurant a little too much and missed the last entry into the Ice Bar, so instead we headed to a little Norwegian beer house just down the road from it. We learned that the bar only served produce from Norway and, while there were gin, tonic and beer aplenty, soft drinks, like Coke, and spirits, like vodka, weren't on the menu. Personally, I absolutely loved the premise behind the bar and I'm glad we visited. 

We moved on to another bar and were again surprised, but delighted, by the friendliness of the locals. Two guys joined us for the most part of the evening and, like the girls from the night before, tried to take us to some other bars that had since been closed. We ended up back in the same place making even more friends, including some students who proceeded to teach us some sort of drinking ritual! Now, I know drunk bathroom friends is a thing in the UK, but this lot took it to a whole new level. We chatted like old friends and I do think it's a shame that we're not all like this back at home. I mean, I'm happy to try, but I'm not sure I'm ready for the looks I'll get just yet... 

After a great night, we headed home for a particularly short sleep before catching the train back to the airport. Cue sullen faces and the "don't even dare speak to me" eyes on the tube... 

Maintaining peak Britishness... and other things to do in Hvar, Croatia

Croatia is a little piece of paradise you wouldn't expect to find in Europe. The country is home to beautiful beaches, palm trees, a thoroughly chilled atmosphere... and mosquitoes. Well, you can't have it all, can you?

As group of two Brits and an honorary Brit (though her Aussieness came out many a time where bugs were concerned: barefoot spider squishing, knifing a wasp to death, squashing a mosquito with one hand, while calmly holding a glass of wine with the other), we unintentionally hit most British stereotypes while on holiday. Hey, you can take the girl out of London...

Talk about the weather

Come on, the most British thing EVER. Excessively, too. Initially, we were worried as it was forecasted to be stormy on all but our first day. However, this was completely unfounded, and even as we looked at the weather app stating rain, we looked up at the sky to see something very different, thank God. The September temperature was perfect; hot enough to feel completely comfortable in a bikini, but cool enough not to sweat like a waterfall. It averaged at about 27 degrees each day, and at about 18 to 23 each evening.

Waiting for our ferry in Split

Get a round in

Despite the early start (very early, like could-still-be-on-a-night-out early) the train to the airport and flight were fairly smooth. Of course, the British way is having a tendency for drinking that an alcoholic would be proud of, so my housemate and I cracked on with 7:30am gin and tonics, while playing a round of cards. In front of us were a group of lads lads lads, who were caning it a hell of a lot heavier. Pretty much the most British way to start a holiday.

Apart from our first night, we went out in the evening to explore Hvar's nightlife. The most prolific club on the island is Carpe Diem which, although a good premise - you get a boat to a little island - it was a bit pretentious and expensive AF. Instead, head to the bars and clubs next to the marina like Aloha, Nautica and Kiva. The drinks are well priced, the vibe is great, you can watch the boats and chat with everyone - people are very social. Maybe a bit too social, as my flatmate found out when we had to rush past the bar, so a certain bartender wouldn't see her the next morning...

Kiva, which we went to on our last night, was our favourite. The music and drinks were good and we had a great chat with an Aussie couple who were 3 months into a 2 year trip in their camper van. We were incredibly jealous. It wasn't the British rowdy atmosphere you'd expect for all the heavy drinking going on either, which was refreshing. There are only 6 policemen in Hvar for a reason!

Take advantage of any freebies

Our AirBnb, which reminded us of an old Italian winery (and they actually made their own wine and olive oil there, too), was situated walking distance from everything and had a great view of the sea and islands of Hvar. We had no need for a car; each day, we would walk down through the beautiful old town and down to the coast. The beaches in Hvar are rocky, but the water is breathtakingly clear. It's like being on a European version of a Caribbean island. We sunbathed on rocks, on stone walls, on concrete, wherever basically, because we didn't want to pay that 100kn for a sunbed. And, you know what? We got just as tanned and enjoyed the beautiful sea view anyway!

The fortress is a free viewpoint that looks over the town and other islands below and is thoroughly recommended. For someone who isn't an active fan of hiking, I always end up climbing up some sort of viewpoint in cities I visit, but this one really wasn't a hard climb and could be done by most people.

View from the outside the fortress

Another freebie we loved was the use of a pool in the neighbouring hotel. It was fashioned with ornate stone, surrounded by palm trees, and you walk into it in the same way you'd walk into the sea (i.e. you don't climb into the pool using steps or a ladder; the water starts at about two inches and gets progressively deeper).

We even managed to score another freebie in the form of bread and shots from a restaurant we visited a couple of times. Carbs and alcohol, what more could you want?! 

Being the health and safety police

So, us Brits do take health and safety a little too far sometimes, but even our flat's "it'll be fiiiiiine" attitude was tested as we stepped into a tiny boat on rough waters to Zdrilca. Who was driving the boat, you ask? A seasoned sailor and Croatian native who has been on these waters every day of his life? Nope, my flatmate. But we had life jackets just in case, right? WRONG AGAIN. To be fair to my flatmate, he actually did so well, driving, anchoring, and whatever else he had to do to keep us afloat while I had a mid-sea panic that we were about to capsize and drown.

The mild panic attack was worth it though, as we docked on the first beautiful island. We headed straight for the beach bar and ordered mussels, bread and roasted vegetables, as we listened to jazz and observed the incredible view, not quite believing where we were. We soon moved to sun loungers, played fetch with dogs in the sea, and had a dreamy afternoon. The other two went to explore other coves on the boat, but I was not stepping back on that thing until absolutely necessary. Instead, I found out what happened in the "24 hours that shatter Walford" thanks to BBC iPlayer and my 4G.

We were in what literally felt like paradise. We even had jazz versions of Christmas songs playing at one point; surreal, but why not fuse together the two really great things?

Last but not least...

Queueing! This was much better than queuing at the bus stop, though.

Following such an incredible break, coming back to London wasn't a fun task. Not only was it 12 hours door-to-door and involved about five different modes of transport, but of course, it ended in the most British way possible: a rail replacement bus and drizzly rain. Classic.